95TXTA

Quick background on my situation, my transmission was getting repaired and my car had been sitting still for about 3 months. Had some fuel stabilizer put in gas tank and battery still worked, car turned on and ran fine at the first crank once everything was put back in.

I have been driving the car for about 4 days and finished off as much of the gas as I could that was sitting in the tank for 3 months. I filled it up with a fresh tank and everything has been running fine until tonight.

I was sitting in the car parked with the motor running for about 10 min and it just sputtered and died. The car had already been driven for a while prior and was warmed up and ran fine. The rpms and oil pressure just seemed to drop and that was it. No warning lights or leaks are there.

I took it for a drive later on and started fine, idle was ok, temp, rpms and oil pressure read great. I got to where I was going and parked it and not even 1 min later it just sputtered out and died again. Every time it dies it turns right back on. I turned it on and put it in reverse and the rpms dropped and I stalled twice before I got it in drive. Once it's in drive and foot on the gas it runs perfect. Only at stop lights after about 30 seconds rpms started slowly dropping again and I had to hold the break down and give it some gas to keep it from dying. At this point the check engine light has finally come on.

I get home and parked it and purposely let it sit in park or with just foot on the break and ideling and it keeps doing the same thing. My opti was replaced around March along with a new water pump and fresh spark plugs, and fuel filter, there are no leaks of any kind that I can see. The only thing different I did notice is the exhaust fumes do smell a lot stronger than I'm used to it being.

I am stumped as to why this started all the sudden after a few days of driving. Any ideas?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Make sure that there is no leak in the Intake Elbow area, something could of popped off. Mine did the same thing when the donkey dick fell off, it just came off and ran like crap, real rich.

PunishedU

iTrader: (1)

We need to know what that check engine light is. Take it to autozone or one of those places for a free check. Merv is right though, I have seen that happen before. The smell of gas could be the egr valve. Like I said though, need to see the code.

95TXTA

Good point I will check that and hopefully it's just a vacuum leak of some kind instead of a bad plug or wire.

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

What does your fuel pressure look like when it is dying? Pump could be going bad, overheating, shutting down, and causing a lean condition SES light.

95TXTA

Well the service engine light was coming on and off so it was hard to get it scanned at AZ. While it was off I had the throttle body off to check the IAC and everything looked fine, everything was clean which it should have because the motor was rebuilt a few months ago. I still do not hear any vacuum leaks. I hope it's not a blown gasket.

It dies ever time it's on now so I had it towed to a mechanic and he will scan it and check the fuel pressure and make sure it's not the regulator, etc.

Hopefully it's nothing major, i'll keep everyone posted.

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

The codes are stored in the computer. You don't have to scan it just when the SES light is on.

WYD-01

iTrader: (2)

my car did that, but only after a few minutes of driving turned out to be the opti crap

95TXTA

Well the I got the codes read and it is coming back as 36 and 42.

Code 36- Distributor ignition system. Faulty high resolution (360X) pulse or multiple low resolution pulses detected.

Code 42- Ignition control circuit (ignition module).

As much as I hate to say it, it sounds like the opti. The one on it now isn't even 1 yr old though.

Anyone run into this before or have any suggestions on a fix before I have to consider replacing the opti again????

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

Check the opti harness for corrosion. Check the wires while you're at it.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

95TXTA

The harness on it is new also, replaced at same time opti was but it's worth a look. That was a good link thanks.

I know this wouldn't make sense because of the codes it has, but anyone think it could have anything to deal with the coil? It just seems odd to me that it is only happening after the motor is warmed up, heat related?

Sweetred95ta

iTrader: (2)

Is it when the car switches to closed loop or just warmed up in general?

95TXTA

I really didn't pay attention to the temp every time but in most cases I saw it was not even to 180 yet (i have a 180 stat). I was mainly focusing on the rpms, it semed to happen when it dropped to normal idle of about 8-900rpms which it has always run well at in the past.

Is there something it could be if it is happening at closed or open loop?

WYD-01

iTrader: (2)

i had a gm opti only last me 2 months before i slung it apart. It obviously cant handle the rpms. I have put four on mine in five years, then i bought a dynaspark.
No more problems since ( kinda pricey though )

95TXTA

Well i'm glad you mentioned that because I have been debating on which opti to buy for the replacement. I found an Accell for only $199 but have seen people say they have had bad experiences with it. I am debating on just biteing the bullet and getting the MSD opti which can take the rpms for sure

My worry is that in the end MSD or not it's still an opti in a bad location on the motor and even though MSD is supposed to be water tight, it is still there in all the heat. I haven't heard enough about the MSD to opti to know if it is worth the price since it is so new to the market. Anyone have one?

The opti I have on it now was from Nappa which was not smart it seems, but only reason I took it was because a friend worked there and gave it to me for cheap. He may be able to give me another one since this one gave out so quick but i'm not sure if that would be smart even if they can swap it for free.

Anyone have sugestions or feedback on what opti has worked well?