97LT1

iTrader: (3)

Ok I have been debating all of the parts going into my 383 short block and have for sure decided on forged pistons, and rods.

I am sure that im going to be needing a crank since i am going from 350 to 383, so I thought about it, and have been wondering if im gonna kick myself in the *** later if i dont go with forged there as well. If I decided to do forged what else needs to be done to the block to utilize the strength of the crank? I am guessing that converting to 4 bolt main or getting splayed caps is the correct route to go, right?

I am thinking i can hold off on the kooks (being I have short tubes) for now and invest in the crank and block work instead. Do you guys think I am making the right choice? I am going to be running N/A most of the time, but you never know what the future holds, so thats why I am 2nd guessing myself.

According to Lloyd Elliot the rpm band will be 2600-6800. (Does this rpm band change when using the package with 383? The #'s above are quoted for 350.


I was looking at this combo at AI and want to know what you guys think

# Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft
# Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
# Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc, -16cc, or -26cc)
# Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
# Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
# Main and Rod Bearings Included
# Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!



Ok so what do you think is going to be completely necessary for this block to work besides the LE3 package.

1. better timing chain and sprockets
2. New oil pump, not sure what kind.
3. Racetronix fuel pump, and not sure on the injector size yet.
4. A new computer tune.
5. gaskets and misc.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Yes if you are going to do a stroker go forged now. Worry about headers later cuz you can do headers at anytime with the motor still IN the car. A new crank would require the motor be pulled AGAIN.... never good....

You can get away with the two bolt if you don't intend on huge power or huge RPM.... If the money is there then by all means have it converted to splayed mains (about 500-600 bucks including parts) but it isn't required... two bolt studded is generally pretty strong.....

you want a solid foundation for your shortblock and having all forged quality components is a great start.. you never know what you might want to do down the road (IE nitrous, blower, etc)..... better than to have to do this all over again......

As far as parts with it I'd recommend a good electric water pump, a Melling HV oil pump (standard SBC stuff), and a good Comp Cams double roller timing chain (need electric water pump for this)..... possibly doing a better balancer wouldn't hurt (ATI, or Fluiddampr).... and i'd put a better oil pan on it as well from Canton.... other than that if you're getting heads and cam it's pretty much your choice as to what other parts..... good bolts probably from ARP would be a wise investment. don't put shitty bolts to hold onto good parts...

94strokedz

iTrader: (1)

Definitely dont want to spend all that time and money and then blow it up down the road because you saved a few hundred bucks by going to a cast crank.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

I consider my set up to be overbuilt and thats fine with me...Callies crank, Oliver billet 5.85" rods and JE pistons...with almost 12 years on them...You get what you pay for, don't skimp...

--Alan

chris77

cranks are alot stornger then you think.if you already bought one then i say just go with it. as long as you have forged pistons and rods you will probly be alright. what kind of power are you looking for. as long as its not an all out track car and you stay under 500-550 hp you will be fine.

WYD-01

iTrader: (2)

I would definately go w/ a forged , as far as 2 bolt or four, you can get away with a 2 bolt. Just stay away from detenation( have a really safe tune)

Hold off on the kooks for now, but you definately will need a good full length header for the full potential of torque that 383 will hold

Fedge

iTrader: (3)

1 forged crank is less expensive than 1 cast crank and 1 forged replacement.

the_hunted

lt1's are notorious for bein slow. so now that you have the chance to make it fast, you might as well make it count. Def invest in a forged crank now. who knows maybe later you decide to go with a 250 dual stage. you know the crank will handel it. Just my .02

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

Nope.... the LE3 version should do just fine in that RPM range.

As for the bottom end...

4 Bolt Mains
4340 Crank
H Beams
Mahle Pistons (-5cc Flat Tops)

Zero Deck the Block, A Pro Gear Timing Chain, The GOOD Melling M55A Pump, 36# or more injectors, Fel Pro Gaskets (or Cometics)

Bret

SS Aleks

97LT1:
Why don't you just save the money and build a 355?

AI has a kit on their website that's just mahle pistons and compstar rods.

Just have your machinist install a set of 4 bolt main conversion caps (3 center), while he has the block for the rest of the work.

Throw in a 200cc head & cam kit and be done with it.

I run 42lb svo injectors and I don't have any fuel shortage issues.

My 355 is very similar to the above mentioned and has worked out well.

The guys are right about getting what you pay for, so make sure you cut in the right spots (if you are cutting).

If you are dead set on a 383 the AI kit you described is a good value.

94Z396

In my bottom end in my 398 LT1 it consists of Callies dragonslayer Crank, Eagle H-Beam forged rods, JE Pistons. ARP studs and nuts, and Oliver 4 Bolt Billet Mains. Pretty good for a Nitrous Setup later on.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Looks good to me, if you plan on running normally aspirated a 2 bolt block will be fine. Buy a Melling "select" series oil pump, good coated cam bearings and a good balancer. Should live a long and healthy life if built correctly.


David