Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

Synthetic or Non-Synthetic? I use 10w-30 regular now, what do you guys use for your LT1's?

9formula4

iTrader: (5)

synthetic runs cooler

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

I heard that switching to synthetic with high mileage would increase the amount of oil coming from any oil leaks you may have. Any validity to that statement?

9formula4

iTrader: (5)

why would it do that? The viscosity of the oil isnt any diff. from conventional (non synthetic) I switched to synthetic in my truck and my brother ran it in his 138k 93 Z28.

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

Golden State recycled 30 wt

but seriously ton of posts on here regarding which oil to use for what application, stroker, non-stroker, turbo, sc, yada yada yada.

eLTwerker

Synthetic oil is molecularly finer than non-synthetic. It will tend to seep through small leaks more than conventional oil.

B4CZR2

I had 2 high mile LT1's and I ran 5w-30 Mobil 1 super syn since day once when I got them... After about 3,000mi on the oil I would change it and it would be down no more than a half a quart. Most of the time less than that. I would go with synthetic, it stays cleaner and doesn't break down as fast.

sdm1234

iTrader: (8)

i already started a thread about this, as well as dozens of other members. ultimately, it's been determined that German Castrol is extremely efficient. do a search on it.

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

alright.

LoStOCeAnZ63

i was using mobil 1 but i just started using royal pruple in my car its not much more and all my friends use it in their race cars so i thought why not try it out and it seems to run better then ever i also use k&n oil filters too

mthegodfather

iTrader: (4)

Royal Purple here.

hyperzone

LoStOCeAnZ63 : Like the color man...

carzman5678

K&N oil filter ugh. Has almost no paper element in it at all. I just use good ol dyno oil....but for the 383 im going to run synthetic.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

German Castrol is said to be one of the best, that and Amsoil. Royal purple IMO is not a very good oil for what you pay. they have good straight weight race oils, but some of the UOAs i've seen for their regular oilsdont show it to be a good oil for street use..

All oils dont have the same viscosity even though they're all rated a 30 weight. That is simply a range for the viscosity of that certain oil @ 100c. For example: old formula M1 5/10w 30 weight used to be low 10 cst @ 100c. New formula is low low 11s, high 10s. Average is 10.5. GC is 12.1cst @ 100c, and does not shear (thin) as m1 does.

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=buffman]German Castrol is said to be one of the best, QUOTE]

hey thats what I use, good to know

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=BRETTINATOR]
I was using german castrol , and switched back to mobile (this oil change)because I thought i was getting rocker noise from the oil. But im gonna go back to german castrol.

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=97LT1]what the hell man...now I'm confused... is this regular Castrol your talking about from Orielly's, etc?

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=BRETTINATOR]No the expensive full synthetic German stuff. I ran Full synthetic mobile 1 since I got the vehicle, and then went to german castrol about 5 oil changes back. Then recently switched to see if it would lower my rocker noise, however that wasn't the problem.

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=97LT1]ahh ok...well I just run the Castrol full syn

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

"german Castrol" refers specifically to Castrol Syntec 0w-30 SPECIFICALLY labled "made in Germany" on the back lable and is proven(MEASURED used oil analysis) to be one of if not the best oils for LT1s and LS1s alike. Most of the Syntec line is overpriced Group 3 oil that really is not anything spectacular, think "walmart synthetic" as opposed to M1 or Amsoil synthetic which are group 4-5 synthetics. In other countries Group 3 can not be legally sold as synthetic as it is here.

Group 1 and 2 oils are considered "dino" oils.