Installing Pillar Pod on 96 T/A
12-23-2006, 06:34 PM
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Installing Pillar Pod on 96 T/A I was wondering if anyone has advice on how to install a pillar pod for someone thats never done it before where would i run the wires and install the gauges i got a tripple pillar pod with water temp,A/F, and Oil Pressure? its a 96 Trans am and do i need anything extra besides the gauges.
12-23-2006, 07:24 PM
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no u should be fine. i wouldnt recommend it. Its all up to you but I just find it weird unless you need a gauge for boost or some ****. but basically you can either A) take the pillar off and replace it with the pods OR B) just mock it up and drill right into the exisiting pillar. Good luck,keep us posted!
12-24-2006, 12:11 AM
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Yea its not hard to do. I did it on my 96 and it looked good and was easy to do. I ran the wires behind the pillar in through the engine bay. When it's all done it looks great.
12-24-2006, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by got V-8?
Yea its not hard to do. I did it on my 96 and it looked good and was easy to do. I ran the wires behind the pillar in through the engine bay. When it's all done it looks great.
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12-24-2006, 02:26 PM
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thats what im wondering id where to ground those specific gauges im pritty sure the A/F needs to go to the O2 sensore the oil pressure hooks up to the part of the engine thats in the back i believe but how about the water temp.
12-24-2006, 03:40 PM
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when u ground a wire it can go on anything metel... losen a screw up and then slip it in then tighten the screw. thats what ive done for my nitrous gauge forevs ago
12-24-2006, 11:40 PM
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For wiring your gauges you're going to need some basic wiring skills. Definately first I'd suggest tearing your dash apart. Soldering is recomended, don't bother with crimp connectors. Solder and shrink wrap the connections for a much better connection, that will last much longer.
For a ground, you can actually take the ground for each individual gauge and connect them together run them so they eventually consolodate to one wire. You can run the wire through the dash to the passenger side where if you remove the panel underneath the glove box, there is a screw right near the door jamb where you can take the bolt off (factory ground location) and add a circle end to the wire and put it on the bolt.
For the power source for the light for the gauges, I tapped into the wire coming from the dimmer switch on the headlights. That way the interior gauge lights would dim with gauges in the gauge pod. If you don't prefer that, then just use the power wire from the headlight switch.
For the switched 12v source for the gauges -- if you go to your fuse panel and look at the backside, there is actually a spade connector labeled "IGN." You can splice into that. It isn't made to take a high amp load, but for a switched power source it should work fine. I use it for my gauges and nitrous system activation and it works fine. If you aren't confidant doing that, then you can find a switched 12v power source from the power wire to your CD player.
For your a/f gauge (assuming it is a narrow band a/f gauge) then you'll need to get your signal from the O2 sensor wires themselves. Because I don't personally suggest wiring into the wires from the sensors themselves, its much easier to get the signal from the wires going into the PCM wiring harness.
The driver's side O2 signal wire is purple/white and starts at pin C20 on the PCM (gray connector).
The passenger side O2 signal wire is purple and starts at pin C8 on the PCM (gray connector).
Shoebox has pinout diagrams on his "Tech Pages".
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#1995_pcm_pinouts
To be able to read both sensors, one at a time, get a single-pole/double-throw switch and connect the gauge signal wire to the center and the O2 sensor leads to the outsides.
For the water temp, what's wrong with the temp gauge you have in your dash? Its fairly accurate. Why have two of the same gauge? Same goes for the oil pressure. I understand the oil pressure gauge isn't nearly as accurate (or specific).
If you want to do the oil pressure, its a bit of a bear -- but its do-able. On the side right above the oil filter (Look at the pipe plug stuck in the block above the filter/oil cooler) there is an auxillary port that you can get an adapter (The hole in the block is 1/4" NPT. There's a 1/8 x 1/4" NPT bushing that would reduce the hole to match the sender) threaded for the sending unit (you'll also need an elbow) to angle it in the right direction to get the wires to your gauge.
For a ground, you can actually take the ground for each individual gauge and connect them together run them so they eventually consolodate to one wire. You can run the wire through the dash to the passenger side where if you remove the panel underneath the glove box, there is a screw right near the door jamb where you can take the bolt off (factory ground location) and add a circle end to the wire and put it on the bolt.
For the power source for the light for the gauges, I tapped into the wire coming from the dimmer switch on the headlights. That way the interior gauge lights would dim with gauges in the gauge pod. If you don't prefer that, then just use the power wire from the headlight switch.
For the switched 12v source for the gauges -- if you go to your fuse panel and look at the backside, there is actually a spade connector labeled "IGN." You can splice into that. It isn't made to take a high amp load, but for a switched power source it should work fine. I use it for my gauges and nitrous system activation and it works fine. If you aren't confidant doing that, then you can find a switched 12v power source from the power wire to your CD player.
For your a/f gauge (assuming it is a narrow band a/f gauge) then you'll need to get your signal from the O2 sensor wires themselves. Because I don't personally suggest wiring into the wires from the sensors themselves, its much easier to get the signal from the wires going into the PCM wiring harness.
The driver's side O2 signal wire is purple/white and starts at pin C20 on the PCM (gray connector).
The passenger side O2 signal wire is purple and starts at pin C8 on the PCM (gray connector).
Shoebox has pinout diagrams on his "Tech Pages".
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#1995_pcm_pinouts
To be able to read both sensors, one at a time, get a single-pole/double-throw switch and connect the gauge signal wire to the center and the O2 sensor leads to the outsides.
For the water temp, what's wrong with the temp gauge you have in your dash? Its fairly accurate. Why have two of the same gauge? Same goes for the oil pressure. I understand the oil pressure gauge isn't nearly as accurate (or specific).
If you want to do the oil pressure, its a bit of a bear -- but its do-able. On the side right above the oil filter (Look at the pipe plug stuck in the block above the filter/oil cooler) there is an auxillary port that you can get an adapter (The hole in the block is 1/4" NPT. There's a 1/8 x 1/4" NPT bushing that would reduce the hole to match the sender) threaded for the sending unit (you'll also need an elbow) to angle it in the right direction to get the wires to your gauge.
12-24-2006, 11:51 PM
#14
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
If you want to do the oil pressure, its a bit of a bear -- but its do-able. On the side right above the oil filter (Look at the pipe plug stuck in the block above the filter/oil cooler) there is an auxillary port that you can get an adapter (The hole in the block is 1/4" NPT. There's a 1/8 x 1/4" NPT bushing that would reduce the hole to match the sender) threaded for the sending unit (you'll also need an elbow) to angle it in the right direction to get the wires to your gauge.
12-25-2006, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeliusZ28
would this same procedure work for an oil temp guage? i plan to install one but havent found anyone thats done it on an LT1 before.
I know some people who drill and tap into the oil drain plug. I know you'd probably be able to do that or tap into the oil pan itself.
12-25-2006, 01:44 AM
#16
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
You can use that location if you'd like (As long as it isn't a 93, that's where their oil pressure sending unit is located) for that. However I haven't heard if the oil pressure there will affect the temp readings.
I know some people who drill and tap into the oil drain plug. I know you'd probably be able to do that or tap into the oil pan itself.
I know some people who drill and tap into the oil drain plug. I know you'd probably be able to do that or tap into the oil pan itself.
