Making sure i got the Rockers Parts list right?
03-15-2007, 03:59 AM
#1
Making sure i got the Rockers Parts list right? i made a post about rockers for stock head's on my '96 LT1. I was looking at Self Alligning 1.6 rockers from Ws6store. If i bought them do i "need" hardened pushrods and the guideplates? also will i "need" springs? i've never really done springs. I have done rockers and pushrods. I just want the rockers to work without any problems. I didn't know what was ALL necessary. Thanks guys. Appreciate it.
P.S. with the non S/A one's i'd need the guideplates, correct?
P.S. with the non S/A one's i'd need the guideplates, correct?
03-15-2007, 07:05 AM
#4
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No you don't want to use guideplates on SA's. because the plates would just be conflicting against the discs on the RR. Thats why NSA need guideplates in the first place.
EDIT: also if you plan on getting a cam anytime soon that will be a revver (306/LE2 and up) I wouldn't go with SA, I'd look into something like 7/16" Comp pro mag NSA. and get the GMPP guideplates.
EDIT: also if you plan on getting a cam anytime soon that will be a revver (306/LE2 and up) I wouldn't go with SA, I'd look into something like 7/16" Comp pro mag NSA. and get the GMPP guideplates.
03-15-2007, 07:33 AM
#5
If i do anything when i do my rebuild i'm just gonna go with a Hotcam maybe a custom grind to be a little bigger, and probably get the heads p&p'd. I was gonna do a 383 but not sure i want to go that way as i'll end up getting a motor that's more aggressive then i really need
So i'd probably turn to a 355 with all new internals, probably have the rotating assembly balanced, and then like i said, do the heads and a mild to moderate cam. Nothing too aggressive. Worst case is i then would just sell the S/A rockers and get NSA's. Thanks though man.
So i'd probably turn to a 355 with all new internals, probably have the rotating assembly balanced, and then like i said, do the heads and a mild to moderate cam. Nothing too aggressive. Worst case is i then would just sell the S/A rockers and get NSA's. Thanks though man. Trending Topics
03-15-2007, 08:44 PM
#8
The springs don't cost much, how many miles are on your current engine?? I don't remember which ones I ran, they were comp cam springs, when I put in my SA 1.6 promags.
To change the springs with the heads still on the car, you can either get the tool that goes in the spark plug hole, you hook that up to a air compressor, or you can change the springs on the cylinder that is at TDC and rotate through til you got them all.
To change the springs with the heads still on the car, you can either get the tool that goes in the spark plug hole, you hook that up to a air compressor, or you can change the springs on the cylinder that is at TDC and rotate through til you got them all.
03-15-2007, 10:39 PM
#9
yeah i've heard of that tool. I wonder how easy it is with my LT's
lol My motor has almost 80k miles on it. I'd do the TDC but i'm not sure when each cylinder is at TDC. Does anybody have a Part number and place to get springs from and also an idea on how to find TDC for each cylinder. Just want to make sure a valve doesn't drop as that would not be cool Thanks guys.
lol My motor has almost 80k miles on it. I'd do the TDC but i'm not sure when each cylinder is at TDC. Does anybody have a Part number and place to get springs from and also an idea on how to find TDC for each cylinder. Just want to make sure a valve doesn't drop as that would not be cool Thanks guys. 
03-17-2007, 10:53 AM
#13
will you have someone helping you? I can give you some info, but do NOT try to tackle this just by yourself.
Have one person cranking the engine, and another person watching the rockers, when one is moving up, the moment it reaches the top most position, it's at tdc. Take off that rocker/spring. Make sure not to hit the valve stem with the spring. Then grab a hold of the valve stem, and push down on it... not to hard... wait until you hit the piston... you should have about 1 1/2" of the valve stem still visible if it's at TDC. If not, have your partner rotate the engine until it is.
Swap out your valve seals while you're there as well....
Have one person cranking the engine, and another person watching the rockers, when one is moving up, the moment it reaches the top most position, it's at tdc. Take off that rocker/spring. Make sure not to hit the valve stem with the spring. Then grab a hold of the valve stem, and push down on it... not to hard... wait until you hit the piston... you should have about 1 1/2" of the valve stem still visible if it's at TDC. If not, have your partner rotate the engine until it is.
Swap out your valve seals while you're there as well....
03-17-2007, 02:28 PM
#14
i've heard you NEED guideplates with NSA. Also DANHR, thanks for the input. I thought that was how to do it but i wanted confirmation. I appreciate it.as for doing it myself, i could just take a big socket to the front of the crank and hand crank the rotating assembly until they hit TDC too. That way i don't have to worry about my buddy having to crank it. He's a car guy but not very technical when it comes to this stuff