355 LE running...Got a few problems.
03-17-2007, 08:55 PM
#1
355 LE running...Got a few problems. Got my engine running and I have been breaking it in. I have driven for 3 10 minute periods giving it hell but not beating on it. First gear is useless and 2nd breaks loose bad.
Power is insane, but I have a few problems.
I never previously had knock retard but now I do. Readings bounce around up to 7 a great deal. I currently have my 1.6 pro-mags set at 1/8" past zero lash. I have run them as tight as 1/2 turn past zero lash. They definitely have more tick so I think I will tighten them up some. I do have the LT4 KM.
What do you guys think for my valve lash with my setup?
The engine idles at start up but when you are driving and come to a stop it wants to die. I am currently running Ion's tune as well. I will be dyno tuning the car once the KR and this idle problem when stopping is in check.
What do you guys think is causing this?
Power is insane, but I have a few problems.
I never previously had knock retard but now I do. Readings bounce around up to 7 a great deal. I currently have my 1.6 pro-mags set at 1/8" past zero lash. I have run them as tight as 1/2 turn past zero lash. They definitely have more tick so I think I will tighten them up some. I do have the LT4 KM.
What do you guys think for my valve lash with my setup?
The engine idles at start up but when you are driving and come to a stop it wants to die. I am currently running Ion's tune as well. I will be dyno tuning the car once the KR and this idle problem when stopping is in check.
What do you guys think is causing this?
03-18-2007, 12:58 AM
#2
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what size cam and what do you have the idle set at? might want to up the idle speed up a bit if it's a big cam.... what are you using to tune it? stock PCM?
you could give it a bit more on the idle using the set screw on the throttle body when you shut the throttle all the way. moving that set screw will allow more air into the motor when you are off the gas.... Joe overton and I messed with my set screw with my old 355 and it helped it idle better....
the knock retard is interesting but a LOT of stuff can cause it.... more vibration, solid motor mounts, big cams, etc can all cause the motor to THINK it's seeing knock.... is it seeing knock at idle or just at cruise??? cuz based on what you said you haven't taken it to WOT yet or have you????
you could give it a bit more on the idle using the set screw on the throttle body when you shut the throttle all the way. moving that set screw will allow more air into the motor when you are off the gas.... Joe overton and I messed with my set screw with my old 355 and it helped it idle better....
the knock retard is interesting but a LOT of stuff can cause it.... more vibration, solid motor mounts, big cams, etc can all cause the motor to THINK it's seeing knock.... is it seeing knock at idle or just at cruise??? cuz based on what you said you haven't taken it to WOT yet or have you????
03-18-2007, 04:23 AM
#3
Without giving away Lloyds specs, the cam is similar to the CC503. I do have poly motor mouts. The tune is Ion's tune (madz28.com) and he has taken into account all engine specs.
The engine knocks at idle and throttle, although it appears to be hit and miss. Sometimes its gone and tends to be more noticable in the upper gears while cruising.
The engine knocks at idle and throttle, although it appears to be hit and miss. Sometimes its gone and tends to be more noticable in the upper gears while cruising.
03-18-2007, 10:18 AM
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I wouldn't go anymore than 1/2 a turn, with your valve lash..What lifters are you running?
Your idle problem, can be with fixed with a "in-car" tune as well, as bumping up the idle screw.
Your idle problem, can be with fixed with a "in-car" tune as well, as bumping up the idle screw.
03-18-2007, 04:51 PM
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I've never run a knock sensor on any of my LT1's and never had a problem..... knock at idle and cruise sounds like false knock to me..... you could test it as well.... run your car empty of fuel and go buy a few gallons of VP red or trick fuel (like 104 octane unleaded)..... start your car and see if there is knock. if there is any knock it's false.... cuz it ain't gonna knock at idle with 104 in the tank.....
you can tune out the idle problem by having your tuner up the idle a few hundred rpm's... or you can turn the set screw....
you can tune out the idle problem by having your tuner up the idle a few hundred rpm's... or you can turn the set screw....
03-18-2007, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by OutlawZ
what size cam and what do you have the idle set at? might want to up the idle speed up a bit if it's a big cam.... what are you using to tune it? stock PCM?
you could give it a bit more on the idle using the set screw on the throttle body when you shut the throttle all the way. moving that set screw will allow more air into the motor when you are off the gas.... Joe overton and I messed with my set screw with my old 355 and it helped it idle better....
the knock retard is interesting but a LOT of stuff can cause it.... more vibration, solid motor mounts, big cams, etc can all cause the motor to THINK it's seeing knock.... is it seeing knock at idle or just at cruise??? cuz based on what you said you haven't taken it to WOT yet or have you????
you could give it a bit more on the idle using the set screw on the throttle body when you shut the throttle all the way. moving that set screw will allow more air into the motor when you are off the gas.... Joe overton and I messed with my set screw with my old 355 and it helped it idle better....
the knock retard is interesting but a LOT of stuff can cause it.... more vibration, solid motor mounts, big cams, etc can all cause the motor to THINK it's seeing knock.... is it seeing knock at idle or just at cruise??? cuz based on what you said you haven't taken it to WOT yet or have you????
+ 2 for idle screw
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03-18-2007, 08:43 PM
#9
Originally Posted by flyinZ
I wouldn't go anymore than 1/2 a turn, with your valve lash..What lifters are you running?
Your idle problem, can be with fixed with a "in-car" tune as well, as bumping up the idle screw.
Your idle problem, can be with fixed with a "in-car" tune as well, as bumping up the idle screw.
Update:
I tightened the roller rockers up to 1/4 turn past zero lash and a good deal of the knock is reduced. They are also more quiet.
I still have some knock and it is audible, will have burn off Thai old gas to work on the tune. I have a full bottle of Torko so that will definitely tell the tale.
Also the engine trying to quit when coming to a stop is totally gone. It must have been loose rockers, they ere at 1/8 PZL. My engine guru is telling me to tighten the rockers up even more, he likes 1/2 to 1 full turn PZL. This seams to be contrary to what you guys recommend.
Right now 1st and second gear are useless with 40 degree roads, third and fourth are definitely stronger. I cant wait till the things warm up.
I am going to get a datamaster readout sometime soon to post, maybe someone can identify any problems.
03-18-2007, 08:56 PM
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i say 1/4 to half turn past ZL is all you should need..... make sure you crank down the set screws on the top so they won't loosen up on you....
and still try the tank of 104 octane and see if you're still getting knock. if you are don't worry about it cuz it's false...
and still try the tank of 104 octane and see if you're still getting knock. if you are don't worry about it cuz it's false...
03-18-2007, 09:02 PM
#11
Originally Posted by OutlawZ
i say 1/4 to half turn past ZL is all you should need..... make sure you crank down the set screws on the top so they won't loosen up on you...
