Azthrei

So I got everything plugged in and ready to start my motor last night, a 396 LT4 setup. Got all the extra goodies, and had to work out a couple radiator hose issues before trying to start it, as i've go the electric water pump hooked in through the fuse box to run only in the run position of the ignition. After those couple hoses were fixed, went to start it, and the starter whined as it was trying to start the motor, but nothing happened.

I smelled some gas after trying to start it for a few seconds, so I know that gas is getting to the cylinders. My buddy pulled a spark plug and tried grounding it to the block and checking for spark, but there was no spark. I've got the MSD 6AL system, with the MSD blaster coil and wiring harness, along with MSD wires.

What would I check to find out if there isn't spark getting through the wires?

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

What you mean to say is that it cranks, but doesn't start.

If you don't have spark at the plugs, I would check for spark coming out of the coil. If you have no spark from the coil, check for power going to the coil. Just work your way backwards until you locate the problem. Most Haynes or Chiltons manuals will tell you how to check each ignition component. MSD should be able to provide you with instructions for troubleshooting the 6AL.

Azthrei

The car doesn't really "crank" in the normal sense of the word. The engine moves, but no sound out of it except the noise of the starter moving the engine. It's not "cranking" at all, by making the noise like it's trying to crank. Also, my buddy thought it might be a compression issue as well, since it sounded like the starter wasn't getting any resistance to it while it was moving.

KTM

Sounds like the valves are to tight and you have no compression (valves haning open)...did you mess with them ?

Azthrei

Did I possibly do the valve lash too tight for a solid roller cam? I tighten down the jesel rockers, while turning the pushrods with my fingers, and once it became hard to turn them, I gave it another 1/2 turn and torqued the nut down on it.

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

It sounds like you followed the procedure for a hydraulic cam. If you're running a solid roller, the valves are hanging open, like KTM said. Solid cams are set to a specification that should be found on the cam card.

I was just kidding with you about the cranking thing. Everybody says it, but really, when the starter turns the engine over, it is cranking. When it roars to life, that is starting.

Azthrei

Alright, my problem with getting the exact valve lash, for the solid roller, is that I don't have the cam card for the cam. I got the whole engine from a guy, and I know the specs of the cam, but when i've called comp cams about it, they start describing specific tolerances that I have no clue about. I'll try to e-mail them, and hopefully they'll understand that I don't know what to do with exact numbers on tolerances and just tell me "this much when the pushrods become hard to turn".

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

All you really need for adjusting the valves is the lash setting. The lash is the amount of space between the valve tip and the rocker arm. You will need a feeler guage to measure the lash. You need to know if the lash setting they give you is hot or cold. They may actually give you both. I there are much better explanations available. I googled "Setting Valve Lash Solid Roller Cam" and came up with a ton information.

Azthrei

Well, tested the compression with the ol' finger in the spark plug hole, and sure enough, no pressure pushin back on my finger. I'll be takin off the valve covers and doing the valve lash correctly tonight, and seein if that will help the problem i'm having.