redchevcam

iTrader: (2)

Just cusrious, which (out of experiance) would prolly work better with my set up? everything is in my Sig. 6A or 6AL? or is there something else i should try?

383astro

6A and 6AL have only one difference, the 6AL has a rev limiter. Otherwise they are exactly the same.

95zpro

You may want to look at the 6BTM because of your 150shot; it allows you to retard timing.

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

yes to retard the timing, but the stock opti has a limited amount retard, so I dont know how much the 6BTM would help

hmm thats a toughy, I would get the 6AL, it has more than just the soft touch rev control, it also comes with vibration proof mount brackets and 1 or 2 other things that I cant remember

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

The Mallory 685 would be perfect for you. It has the rev limiter, timing retard and window switch and it's all digital. The only problem is that it doesn't have a first gear lockout which you shouldn't worry about with an auto as long as you have good tires. Just add a WOT switch and a FPSS and you're golden.

Also, make sure you get the MSD harness for your car. There are two different ones depending on the year. I think Mallory or Crane may make one as will as they use different colored wires for their boxes.

aggiez28

iTrader: (19)

i have a 6al for sale

ToxicFormula

I'm going with the MSD Digital 6 plus

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

I'm wondering why you chose that over the Mallory 685?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I have a Digi 6+ to sell, but I can't guarantee it works It came out of a working drag car, and I never got around to installing it on anything. $319 new, $200~ used on eBay, $100 for mine as-is. With cables and shock mounts.

redchevcam

iTrader: (2)

how much for your 6al?

redchevcam

iTrader: (2)

i dont have the 150 shot yet. i have LT1 edit, so i can control m y rev limiter there. so im thinking unless i get a good deal, then 6a box is where i will go. i can also retard timing with lt1 edit, so when i put 150 shot, i can do it there. agree? yes, no? and also, i have the MSD opti, which gives me 7 degrees either way. it advertises 5 degrees, but i think its been known 7.i know its not alot, but it isnt a stock opti

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

STOP
You are going to blow your motor if you keep thinking like this. The stock rev limiter is fuel based which is instant, catastrophic death on the bottle.
Use the pcm for spark retard and rely on reflashing constantly and you will eventually lockup a pcm, leave the juice tune in all the time and you leave NA power on the table.
The MSD opti is not meant for making tuning changes every time you go to the track, plus do you have the keyed/degreed hub and damper and fabricated pointer you would need to even attempt this?
A keyed/degreed damper will cost you more than the Mallory 685 which would be the right way to do this.

Reread seawolf06's post, the Mallory is a pretty complete package all in one little box and you should be using every one of those features. MSD makes the stuff you need too but far as I know you need to buy a box and a bunch of addon crap.
Spending $220 on this little box is much cheaper than what will happen if you keep heading down the road you are now.

A friend VERY knowledgable far as racing and nitrous goes ran his RACE car in much the manner you are proposing. Stock shortblock but being basically a race car he left the nitrous tune in all the time with the retarded timing. Eventually he got greedy and pushed too hard, with few safeties in place his season ended with some of the rotating assembly exiting the block.

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

Like he said, you're not understanding what you want to do. If you let the stock rev limiter cut the fuel while there is nitrous, you will blow your car up, end of story. That's why the ignition rev limiters are so much better, they cut spark instead of fuel.

You don't retard timing for nitrous using the tune, you retard it using a window switch and a timing retard switch. It retards the timing only while you're spraying so that it doesn't hurt the motor when you're just driving around.

You really need to read up more on nitrous before putting that "kit" on. I doubt you have all the safety equipment or understanding of how to use it.

In summary, get the 6al at minimum. If you want to get the safety features and save some money, get the Mallory 685.

redchevcam

iTrader: (2)

no no no i totally understand all of this....i dont have nitrous yet, and i dont plan on having it anytime soon...maybe next year....im just trying to figure this out for the time being....im going steps at a time. Im not ready for nitrous, i know this. I do appriciate all the excellent info, because now i see more clearly what i need to do when i do decide to add nitrous. I am doing the research as i go with the mods. and as of this point i just wanna box that will work with my current setup. The Mallory kit is my best bet, i didnt even know about that untill now. and i will probably buy it, but not right now. Im sorry i wasnt more clear on what i am doing right now....i didnt expect to get this big of a response. But i am grateful for what i am getting. Im glad you said something about the fuel cutoff(stock limiter) and ignition limiter and the differance when in relation to nitrous, that made alot of things makes sense. and i will heed that information when i add nitrous.

i also know the opti is not for tuning with mods, i just reread my last post, and i admit, i misworded what i said. i dont intend on pushing my car to the very limits without knowing what i am pushing....haha

thanks guys