B-Body LT1 vs F-Body LT1
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B-Body LT1 vs F-Body LT1
After a blown head gasket, my 1994 Z28 will be getting an LT1 from a 1994 Buick Roadmaster. I know the cams are different, but what else will be different? Will I need to change any sensors? Can I use the PCM for the Z28 still or will I have to use the Roadmaster's PCM? Will all the wiring be correct or will we need to rerun some wiring? ALL help is appreciated for this. Hoping to have the car running again by Sunday.
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The RM motor will have iron heads, most likely the RM engine will also have a vented Opti (a good thing) and the engine will run with the Z's PCM. It just won't be the best running machine but it will run half decent. A tune is highly suggested to at least adjust the MAP vs. spark controls.
As for sensors. Most should be ok but I think the one temp sensor on the RM motor is on the d/s and the F-body is in the Pass. side. But don't quote me. I'm trying to remember.
As for sensors. Most should be ok but I think the one temp sensor on the RM motor is on the d/s and the F-body is in the Pass. side. But don't quote me. I'm trying to remember.
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Originally Posted by fergymoto
It will have iron heads. Make sure it isn't the little LT1. It's possible that it is the smaller version, not a 350. Other than swapping the accessories you should be good to go.
Make sure there is a casting in the side of the block that says "327"
#5
^^^In addition to what he said, the pipes that come out of the water pump are bent differently/different lengths. Could possibly run into some issues hooking up your heater hoses, unless you try and use the heater hoses from the Roadmaster but I'm not 100% sure that'll work either.
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the roadmaster unlike the caprice, will come with nothing but the LT1. Standard and only option. Now, you'll have to change the Waterpump, unless the different pipes will allow clearance. RMS engine will have two knock sensors. Use the one, leave the other one alone. SInce OBD1 should be the same KS. F-car temp sender for gauge IIRC is on driver's side, it's on pass side on RM.
It should run the same as it did before. Maybe a little slower, but not much.
It should run the same as it did before. Maybe a little slower, but not much.
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Originally Posted by Captainofiron
I have heard the iron heads flow a little better, wonder if you will see any gains once you have it tuned and running good??
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in reality unforunately the b-car lt1 does pretty much dyno as advertised. We don't find too many stock b-cars dynoing to the rear wheels what they advertise at the crank like you f-car do. They typcially dyno 212-220 rwhp.
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Originally Posted by SAPPER
most likely the RM engine will also have a vented Opti (a good thing)
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Originally Posted by fergymoto
^Forgot to mention the water pump. You will need to put the F body water pump on it if you want it to be right.
Last edited by 94 F-body; 06-24-2007 at 10:07 PM.
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Originally Posted by 94 F-body
I know from putting a 1995 Caprice intercepter (cop car) motor in my 1994 Trans Am the water pump is not going to work. I was wondering why when I got it fired it did not want to idle, I figured that it was due to the PCM not having power for a while, and no exaust. I did not know it was going to be that loud. other than that I have some small things to wrap up, and the opti was vented unlike mine.
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Originally Posted by ss44
The water pump from the camaro won't work? What are the options to get around it?