94-6spd

I've just rebuilt the engine with a cam and roller rockers, 52mm TB, headers and a tune from PCMforless. This thing runs so rich that it fogs the place. The fuel pressure is fine. I have put in 32 lb. injectors and Bryan Herter has set the tune for this and has been checked. The plugs will foul quickly. I have a good mind to get another tune from someone else but I don't have much money to spend. There are also no codes being set and have put it on a scanner. I do occasionally get knock counts so I'll put in an LT4KM. What should I look for?

sleeperMULLET

iTrader: (4)

02 sensors reading good? also when you hook up the scanner is the coolant temp that the PCM sees look normal?

94-6spd

I just put in two new O2 sensors. I don't really know what to look for on the scanner for numbers. I think at idle it jumps around in the 700's to 800's on both sensors. What should this be doing? Also, the temp sensor gets to a certain point and stays there. Seems like it got stuck at 207 degrees or something like that. Could this be the problem? Thank you for the help and please continue.

sleeperMULLET

iTrader: (4)

your 02 sensors should be switching from .100-.900mv they should not be a steady .800mv, this is in closed loop. on intial startup it should be like .457mv untill it gets into closed loop. if you put Bosch 02 sensors in take them out and get AC-Delco 02s. When the ECT sensor goes bad it usually shows a negative temp so the PCM will richen the A/F mixture to get the ECT temp up. There are two ECT sensors, one for the PCM and one for the gauge cluster. Are you seeing 207 on the gauge or the scanner? Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure reg, what is the pressure at idle? What type of plugs are you using? You will need the LT4 KM so get that soon. Is the knock constant or do you just get a few degrees when you rev it?

94-6spd

The numbers are jumping around up to 7-800 so it's probably ok. The scanner was showing the 207 on the scanner and the guage.

94-6spd

Here are the numbers from the scanner.

Baro HG 29.97
Baro V 4.84
LT Fuel TR CL 16
LT Fuel TRM L 124
LT Fuel TRM R 151
EVAP Duty 0%
Coolant 167
EGR Duty 167
EGR VLVPOS 0
IAC Position 86-92%
Maf gr/SEC 11
MAP HG 19-20.10
Map v 2.92-3.1
O2 sensor L 36-800's
O2 sensor R 36-800's
TPS .78

This is at idle and fuel smoking. Anything look out of place?

94-6spd

Holding the throttle to a steady RPM cause slight popping through the exhaust. The valves are not too tight because I have ran through them twice and once when running. I have changed the opti also. HELP!

94-6spd

Anyone know about those scanner readings?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Fuel trims should be around 128 on both sides. However I am not sure what the consequent action the computer would take for that.

94-6spd

Does the higher number mean too rich? I'm assuming so. Why doesn't the computer compensate? Also, do you think it's the tune doing this?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

If I remember correctly, the higher trim is a lean condition for that bank. So you have a "richer" condition on the driver side and the pass side is running lean. I wouldn't worry too much about the driver side cuz it's close. However that's completely opposite of what is suspected here so IDK. Perhaps some of the others will chime in but I would say it is the tune. I would send some log files under several conditions and send it in to Herter for some tweaking.

94-6spd

Thanks dhdenney. I just sent Herter an email. Where are you in Kentucky?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Monticello, around Lake Cumberland. If you're close to Bowling Green, there's a guy that has a dyno and does stuff by appt. His name is Jessie Coulter. Been aiming to get over there but I'm kinda broke and don't necessarily have my stuff all ironed out. I think the price is pretty reasonable.

94-6spd

I'm in Paducah. I actually know Jesse. He's kind of hard to get a hold of sometimes.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Oh, haha. I guess that option has been exhausted.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

TPS voltage is high, it is most likely out of "Idle" mode and thinks you are applying throttle(which you techically are).

First remove the TPS and dremel or grind out the mounting holes so that there can be rotational movement. Then put it all back together loosely, and with a digital multimeter set for dc voltage on 2 or 5 volts(whichever your multi has) with the ground on any ground(the accesory bracket works fine) and with the pos on the lower wire from the TPS connector - brown I believe. Rotate the TPS until it reads between .55 and .65 volts with the key on accesories but without the engine running. Disconnect TPS connector, turn off engine, reconnect it, then restart the car. The TPS voltage should now be at whichever value you tighetened it down at(.55-.65v), with the throttle % at 0.

Once that is done play with your idle set screw on the throttle body until your IAC counts are between 40-60.

94-6spd

Should I still do this if I have already messed with the set screw? Bryan Herter reccomended that I do this to get it to start a little easier. If I back it out to where it was it'll probably be at 0% right. Is this causing the extremely rich condition?

94-6spd

ttt.

fuzchunk

check your fpr and canister lines for raw fuel

94-6spd

I will check that. How would that happen?