Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys my buddy is ready to fix up the ol TA. Here is the stats: 1995 M-6 199,000 mile all stock car. He is willing to spend $4,000 on just the motor, ignition, fuel stuff, and etc. He is going to take care of the transmission, rear end, and suspension with some other money. So what is a good motor combo? I am looking for someone to say something like this "If I was going spend that I would build a 383 with **** heads and **** cam and etc." Oh yeah he wants it streetable comfortably hold 150 shot. Thanks for any help and input oh yeah he is for sure spending on this particular car.

Thanks, Chase

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

try and find a motor built already or throw in an LS1 they aren't cheap to build up the LT1 and get anything very great from it. As for a 150 shot. with my mods in signature i run 100 shot and have sprayed 150 with no problems

DroppedM6Z

iTrader: (5)

Stock Crank
Forged pistons
Good rings and bearings
Stock Rods
LE2 Heads and LE2.2 Cam
Good machine work
.0 decked block for at least 11.1-12.1:1 compression
Good Springs, Rockers, pushrods, Lifters
ARP head bolts
Sealed power oil pump
Complete gasket set
LT headers
True Duals
Good tune
All the other little things.....you shoudl be under 4K.

Should put a M6 over 400 to the stock rear end and close to 40 on a 12 or 9"

Dyno-tune Nitrous Kits are great for the moeny and are quality parts.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I agree with DroppedM6Z, LE's H/C is awesome.

In retrospect, I should have spent the money building up the bottom end
while I was doing H/C. It would have allowed me to put a nice fat N20 kit on.
Going back now means pulling it all back apart again

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (1)

You won't regret building the bottom end, I'd go fully forged if I was him, then he can run whatever he wants.

Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the inputs keep them coming.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

best bet is the LE2 head/cam, LT's all the bolt on's then do a 150 wet shot and he will see good numbers. I personally am thinking about doing the LE2 package and a vortech procharger. I should see some really good numbers there, its either that or im going to do a cammed/header LS2 engine, i havent fully decided yet.

95FbFormula

iTrader: (25)

a 383 is going to run more then 4K a 355 will run very close if not more also you can save money by using the stock crank. you would figure 600 for machining depending on how far you go with it. and balancing the assembly more if you have them put it together. so a possible of 1k if machine shop assembles the short block. misc bolts, materials and gaskets, around 300, LTs 250, CAI 100, opti if havent been replaced recently 300, wp also if stock 200, injectors 250-300, H/C 1700. roler rockers 300, pushrods 110, lifters 200. cost of rotating assembly pistons, rods, bearings, between 500-1k depending on what you get. add 600 for forged crank if going 383.

so a possible $4500 for a 355 not counting tune and drivetrain.
and a possible $5100+ for a 383. these are just estimates but should be pretty close.

I am around 2K for my short block another 2500 for the H/C and valve train. and probably a little more for misc stuff LTs ported intake, injectors and what not

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

You'll want a custom grind for the procharger, (which costs the same)
the standard N/A LE2 grind has far too much overlap for forced induction.

DroppedM6Z

iTrader: (5)

I built my Forged 355 short block for under 1K. Heads & cam puts you @ 2700-2800 range. Bolts, gaskets, tune, fluids,blaw blaw blaw = under 4K. Been there, done that. It's easy if you dont blow your money on big polished throttle bodies or stainless long tubes. It's a budget....with performance in mind. PM me....i'd like to give you a few sites to check out for parts.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

where would i get a custom grind from? should i still get the LE2 heads or should i have my heads ported by a machine shop?

DroppedM6Z

iTrader: (5)

UMMM YEAH! There have been to many sad story's about "local" machine shops cutting to far or not near enough where they need to be cut. Llyod could port a LT1 head Blind and they are top notch. Go with Llyod, Port Pros, or TEA...All know their ****

Chris95Z

iTrader: (3)

H/c isn't a bad idea but with nearly 200k miles it would be the shitz to see the bottom end go out or have a cam bearing go out. 4k though is a little slim considering that upgrading one thing tends to lead others to break. I probably would just rebuild the bottom end, get cost eff boltons, prob pacesetter and magnaflow for best price/performance, A decent cai (not the shiny ebay ones), then get a nice cam, get it dyno tuned. Then have a few coldones after installing everything and have an easy 350whp car. I wouldn't want to exhaust all the funds immediately but thats just me.

Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

Guys thanks for the information. Anymore suggestions keep them coming.

Thanks, Chase

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

i would say with 4k do an LE2 H/C package, LT/ORY/Exhaust and with install and a tune you should be right at 4k.

Chris95Z

iTrader: (3)

And what if something breaks, 10 bolt anyone? We don't know if this guy has the cabability to cover breakage like that. It doesn't take much, hell when my car was stock it trashed the 10 bolt. then theres the clutch and tranny or even the motor itself. I'd just hate to see this guy get all excited then have to park the car because of a costly replacement when funds might be lacking.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

i saw your video on streetfire dropped, looks and sounds good.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

well if you read his first post it states his buddy is going to use other money for the tranny/rear end and suspension, so on top of that money he is using 4k to beef up his motor.