Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

My new 383 was delivered to the house today, and then I get a message saying my Vette is running also! Does it get any better??

Visual **** of the motor to follow at about 1900 CST.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Niiice Sean!

Congrats man, hope your Turd LT1 runs strong!

Tony.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

I hope it runs VERY strong. It better with an F1A huffing through it.

94 F-body

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on the lucky day.The only way it could get better is if Pam Anderson knocked on your door to give you a keg and massage with a happy ending

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

I'll skip on her. Now if it was Elisha Cuthbert, I may have to lock my wife in the basement for a few hours.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Drive by Elisha's house with your Vette's pipes rumbling and I bet it'd get her panties wet

As always: Alms for the poor? lol

Can't wait to see pics!

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Better change your signature then

Tony.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Sssssshhhh!!!!! I'm trying to be deceptive.

Hot94Z28

sweet man post some pics.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Couple of things. I've got a lot of work to finish up. The rear freeze plugs and cam plug need to be installed. I assume the cam plug was left out so I could verify the cam in the motor, and the block freeze plugs I have no idea why they were left out.

I need to find plugs for the large water temp sensor fitting on the passenger side head, and an adapter for the drivers side head.

I need to find small plugs for the fronts of the heads where the coolant crossover ports are (like all LT1 heads, they're universal side to side).

This is weird. The LT4 manifold on there does not have the same fuel rail screw size as either of my LT1 manifolds laying around. Anyone seen this?

It looks like the oil pan is going to cause clearance issues with the Arizona Speed and Marine headers, so those will be for sale (99% sure, going to try a mock-up anyway).

Crank Pulley/Hub bolt is uninstalled. Don't know why. Gonna get an ARP anyway.

Top two opti bolts aren't in. Again, don't know why.

Other than that, at first glance everything looks good. REALLY thick seals on the front/back of the manifold and rear of the oil pan, so leaks should hopefully be minimal. Proper guideplates were used (GMPP) and rockers all seem lashed nicely.

I've got to work all weekend, so playing with the new motor will be sporadic for the duration it looks like.

Anyway, there's my $13K chunk of metal.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

$13K!? You could've gotten a World Merlin 632ci 800hp (pump gas) read-to-run crate engine (carb and all) heh Then again, that's a BBC :\

Looks purdy though.

donkey mule

Very nice! Post some video when you get the motor in.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Think about the components in this motor though. Lunati Sledgehammer Crank ($750). Lunati Pro BILLET rode ($1200). Custom Diamond -30CC Forged Pistons ($650). TFS Heads, bare ($850). LT4 Manifold ($600). Head Porting, valvetrain setup, custom cam ($1950). Morel Lifters ($450). That's $6450 in parts alone which doesn't include things like pushrods (custom manley), rockers, gaskets, oil pan, oil pump, main caps, block machine work (splayed 4 bolt mains, 383 clearancing, bore/hone, ect), throttlebody, guideplates, O ring setup for the head/block, ect. ect. Not to mention labor. Put it to you this way, my invoice from the engine shop was $9050 and that did not include the heads/work ($3400), rockers ($250), throttlebody ($300), and other misc stuff. So yes, I've got $13K+ into the motor.

Ask guys with motors with top shelf stuff.......I think it's right on par. I could have easily gone a lot cheaper, but then I wouldn't be getting it to where I want it in terms of power or peace of mind.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

That's probably going to be a couple of months at least before it's running. I still have to appropriate Injectors, new sensors, my FAST XFI box (got the harness at least), have the Street Twin rebuilt, get my D-1SC sold (ebay tonight) and get the F1A purchased, get a K-Member, possibly A-Arms, I've got to get new axle seals installed on the Strange 12 bolt, get a upgraded driveshaft, Kooks Headers (ASM's aren't going to clear the Milodon Pan), need to have a spacer machined for the Procharger Blower Crank Pulley to mate with the ATI Superdamper properly, and other misc stuff. The problem with this is that I've now got a baby on the way and my non-working (since March though she said she was going to get another job) isn't taking gonig back to work seriously and is suddenly cracking down on me for spending on car stuff (to which I told her to stuff it and get a job like she said she would, that went over REALLY well ) so I've got to tread lightly for a little while considering I'm paying all the bills right now too.

I've got a photo page set up that's following my build if anyone wants to follow as I do stuff.

http://www.fastbird93.com/Purple/NewMotor.htm

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

lol Good gravy. Your cam cost exactly half that of what I paid for my whole car LOL Can I ask why you didn't get the Edel LT4 intake instead? $150 cheaper than what you paid, and from what Lloyd said, it starts out at what his ported intakes end up like.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Because it wasn't out when I started this little endeavour early last year. It's something I've considered checking out once the car is up and running and it's a little more proven, but at the current time I have no intentions to swap to it immediately.

I know it seems kind of silly stuffing a $18K motor setup including the blower into a car that's worth at tops 1/3 of that, but that's what our hobby is.

KriegerEhre

iTrader: (3)

First mod I'd do is replace that FRAM oil filter with something better

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

I left that there for the theatrical effect. It was just for shipping.

Right now I'm debating on how to do the pull: top or bottom. I'm familiar with the top, done it twice within the last year. Only concern there is knuckles. Never done the bottom though I wouldn't mind trying that because I'll be replacing the K-Member at the same time. I think I'll probably end up doing the top and then swapping the K-Member out from under the car though for ease of doing things from my own perspective.

And another debate......keep or discard the factory oil cooler. I'm leaning towards discard.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I figure bottom would be easiest, especially since you are doing the KMember anyways. I've never done it either though.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

sheesh, must be nice!!