chief455

iTrader: (21)

just like it says - bought the car, motor mounts look good, they don't lift up but a hair when I use a jack - the pan touches my steering rack when in place.
Supposed to shim up the motor with this pan? Would new poly mounts put the motor up more?

Anybody have this issue?

DADDY&GIRL93TA

Id be guessing but if them motor mounts got some heavy miles on them!

chief455

iTrader: (21)

I checked that - pretty tight since the motor only raised a hair with a floor jack. Started to lift the car. Then it set back down - pan onto the rack.
I wonder if the new poly mounts sit a bit higher? Should I space up the motor with something between the block and mount?

chief455

iTrader: (21)

Think I found the answer from the Canton website:
STYLE: 7-1/2" shallow, fully baffled for road racing, this pan was designed to fit in late model (82-92) F Bodies, (93-Up) F Bodies might require the steering rack to be lowered or the engine mounts shimmed. Makes a great late F-Body Drag Pan. Can be used with cross-over exhaust. Pans can be notched for steering clearance on a special order basis.

guess I'll be shimming

Built LT1

iTrader: (3)

I have Canton on mine and it does clear. I also have solid motor mounts but don't if that made a difference.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...road_race.html

#15-242T pan for direct bolt-in, '93-97 F-Bodies."
this pan would clear - it's curved from the front seal back over the rack to the sump

#15-244T pan for 86 and newer blocks with a one piece seal."

this is the pan I have by the pics on the site. It's deeper and goes straight back fromm the front seal.
Not sure which pan you have, but your mounts might have helped raise the motor. Not something I really want to do, but it's only going to take 1/4" or so.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I ran into this problem in 2002. *** that sold me the pan said it would work and my motor mounts wouldn't even bolt up it was off so bad. It was the 86+ one piece pan and he insisted I had the right pan. My dad cut out a section and welded it back for clearance. I ran it like that until just a few months ago. Nutek is outta business now anyway. That guy was a complete douche. Shortly after our mod, Canton introduced the F-body pan.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

Suck!
I may be pulling the pan to fix leaky gasket - might notch mine then.
You using the pan still - sell it to me maybe?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Actually I gave that pan away. I replaced it with a Milodon. Did you buy the pan on your own or did someone sell you the incorrect pan?

chief455

iTrader: (21)

It came on the car as I bought it
along with an external balance flexplate causing vibration on the zero balanced 383
One guy spent good money building the motor/trans etc while the next guy was less attentive. I get to correct his mistakes

How is the Milodon? fitment? internally?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

It's a good pan. Fitment is fine and clears everywhere in my car. Only thing is it doesn't have a hole for the low oil level sensor. I didn't really think it was any big deal though. I grounded the brown wire to kill the light and I always check my oil before I drive it anyway. PN is 30909 and I got it through Summit for $256.95. BTW, how bad was the vibration on that ex bal flexplate on the int bal motor?

chief455

iTrader: (21)

cool - in case I decide to sell off the Canton
the vibration is like if the torque convertor bolts were loose or something. You know it's there as soon as it starts - but you can still drive the car.
I'm waiting now on the zero balance flexplate to be sure I'm right!
These 2 things plus some shabby wiring, hose routing and the car will shape right up. it was built and tuned well - rips and runs very strong
I'm swapping in a 9" rear/moly shaft, SLP tq arm while fixing the vibration and now the oil pan.
Yup - I'm broke

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Just wondering about the vibration cuz when I bought my rotating assembly in 02, I had it external balanced. I've since converted my setup to automatic and picked up a Fluidampr harmonic balancer and never encountered any problems. Just reading about all the balance issues people have and I was kinda scratching my head. The flexplate I bought was a Scat ext bal and it worked well and the Fluidampr was zero balanced, but from what I have read the stock hub/damper assembly is zero balanced as well. So I guess I just got lucky picking the parts cuz I never really thought about them at the time I bought them.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

I think the key is when external balancing to retain factory external balanced parts - like flywheels or front balancers - the shop MUST NOT alter those parts. They must add/remove weight from the rotatng internals to achieve bsalance without touching weights outside.
This allows a guy like you to swap external balanced parts later because they come with preset weights in the same location


I have learned it better to zero balance externals and internally balance the motor - allowing endless outside part swaps later.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Right, I didn't know so much about stuff like this at that time. The LS1 I am doing will definitely be internally balanced. I bought the rotating assembly from Nutek (same people I was talking about with the pan). They must have externally balanced it with some stock parts. I guess I am just lucky that Scat and Fluidampr have their parts balanced to GM factory specs. When I did the pan swap, I inspected the main bearings and they looked good.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

Yup - buy the aftermarket damper and flywheel/flexplate for zero or internal balance - then have the machine shop spin balance your rotating assembly with that.
Now anyone can swap any balancer/flywheel combo from the aftermarket - knowing it won't affect balance

Learned the hard way 25 years ago - and still buying cars that were done wrong and having to figure it out!

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Yeah the Z I bought and put my 396 in had all kinds of stupid little problems. Tail lights didn't work, heater didn't work, dash lights didn't work, no 3rd brake light. Mostly stupid ****. Put fuses in some of the holes and plugged a few things up and it's good as new. People can be dumb!

chief455

iTrader: (21)

Sure saves us money on the buy in tho
those "perfect" cars are out of my $$$