couple crank hub/balancer questions
08-03-2007, 12:38 AM
#1
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couple crank hub/balancer questions hey guys. i have a couple questions
1) does it matter how the hub is oriented on the crank? i hear some say no and some say yes. i know the balancer will only bolt onto the hub one way, but what about the hub?
2) how the hell do you guys get the hub and balancer back on
thanks everybody
1) does it matter how the hub is oriented on the crank? i hear some say no and some say yes. i know the balancer will only bolt onto the hub one way, but what about the hub?
2) how the hell do you guys get the hub and balancer back on
thanks everybody
08-03-2007, 01:01 AM
#2
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I just tapped mine back on with a rubber mallet. I oriented mine on the same way it came off, just to be safe. Others should chime in soon to tell you the exact truth and why
08-03-2007, 06:09 AM
#3
Being a "balancer", it is important on how you put the hub back on the crank, as this is what dampens the vibration of the engine. Even though there isn't a keyway on the hub, the hot oil from the engine will usually leave a "tattoo" where the keyslot is on the crank. Use that to line up the hub back on the crank.
You should NOT use a hammer or mallet to reinstall the balancer or hub. This can damage the thrust main. A "poor boy" installer can be made using a piece of threaded rod, 3 hex nuts and a couple of flat washers. Take your balancer bolt to your local harware store and buy a piece of threaded rod that's the same thread. I think it's 7/16-20, but off the top of my head, I'm not positive.
Cut a piece of the rod about 12" in length. Take 2 of the hex nuts and lock them together at one end of the rod. Thread the other nut about 2/3 of the way on the rod, and place a couple of flat washers on next.
Place the hub on the crank lightly by hand. Then pass the rod through it and thread about 1/2" of it into the crakshaft. With one wrench, hold the rod with the locked hex nuts, and thread down the other hex nut and washer(s) with another wrench, and press the hub on the crank.
You should NOT use a hammer or mallet to reinstall the balancer or hub. This can damage the thrust main. A "poor boy" installer can be made using a piece of threaded rod, 3 hex nuts and a couple of flat washers. Take your balancer bolt to your local harware store and buy a piece of threaded rod that's the same thread. I think it's 7/16-20, but off the top of my head, I'm not positive.
Cut a piece of the rod about 12" in length. Take 2 of the hex nuts and lock them together at one end of the rod. Thread the other nut about 2/3 of the way on the rod, and place a couple of flat washers on next.
Place the hub on the crank lightly by hand. Then pass the rod through it and thread about 1/2" of it into the crakshaft. With one wrench, hold the rod with the locked hex nuts, and thread down the other hex nut and washer(s) with another wrench, and press the hub on the crank.
08-03-2007, 06:15 AM
#4
It doesnt really matter how it goes on, BUT the Bug has a arrow which should correspond to the crank timing chain sprocket, its easier to find TDC that way. If you dont its not a big issue, but do not use it for reference in the future.
A threaded rod, 7/16" washers and a nut is all thats needed. A lil oil on the crank never hurts, just draw it on slowly.
A threaded rod, 7/16" washers and a nut is all thats needed. A lil oil on the crank never hurts, just draw it on slowly.
08-03-2007, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Being a "balancer", it is important on how you put the hub back on the crank, as this is what dampens the vibration of the engine. Even though there isn't a keyway on the hub, the hot oil from the engine will usually leave a "tattoo" where the keyslot is on the crank. Use that to line up the hub back on the crank.
You should NOT use a hammer or mallet to reinstall the balancer or hub. This can damage the thrust main. A "poor boy" installer can be made using a piece of threaded rod, 3 hex nuts and a couple of flat washers. Take your balancer bolt to your local harware store and buy a piece of threaded rod that's the same thread. I think it's 7/16-20, but off the top of my head, I'm not positive.
Cut a piece of the rod about 12" in length. Take 2 of the hex nuts and lock them together at one end of the rod. Thread the other nut about 2/3 of the way on the rod, and place a couple of flat washers on next.
Place the hub on the crank lightly by hand. Then pass the rod through it and thread about 1/2" of it into the crakshaft. With one wrench, hold the rod with the locked hex nuts, and thread down the other hex nut and washer(s) with another wrench, and press the hub on the crank.
You should NOT use a hammer or mallet to reinstall the balancer or hub. This can damage the thrust main. A "poor boy" installer can be made using a piece of threaded rod, 3 hex nuts and a couple of flat washers. Take your balancer bolt to your local harware store and buy a piece of threaded rod that's the same thread. I think it's 7/16-20, but off the top of my head, I'm not positive.
Cut a piece of the rod about 12" in length. Take 2 of the hex nuts and lock them together at one end of the rod. Thread the other nut about 2/3 of the way on the rod, and place a couple of flat washers on next.
Place the hub on the crank lightly by hand. Then pass the rod through it and thread about 1/2" of it into the crakshaft. With one wrench, hold the rod with the locked hex nuts, and thread down the other hex nut and washer(s) with another wrench, and press the hub on the crank.
It is a dampener, not a balancer. Have you ever had the timing cover off? If you look at the way an LT1 is balanced, it is from the crank and flywheel. This why orientation is not a big deal, and your not seeing a factory crank key even though there is a spot for one on the crank. (With blower apps I can see it being a bigger deal) They have keyed hubs that you can buy, to keep it from spinning in place if you have that problem.
Dampener is meant for vibration absorption for bearing life. Balancer is made to balance.
08-04-2007, 12:13 AM
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well, a good crank will be keyed. so naturally just line the keyed damper with the key on the crank and whammo....DONE ( thats what i did and TDC is easy to find)
