Which parts to get?
10-09-2007, 06:52 PM
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Which parts to get? I am going to order some blackout tailights, can somebody tell me where to find them? Also, I have about 500 to spend on performance parts....My current mods are in sig...I want my car louder, so I am thinking about just buying a cutout...I am waiting to hear from the state of Illinois whether or not I have to pass emissions one more time, so long tubes are probably not going to come until the summer...Would a cutout work or would I be better off with another catback, the 2OTL sounds good, just not sure how well it flows, and its not loud enough for me. If you were me, what would be your next step after a cutout? I want some noticeable power or SOTP feel...
10-09-2007, 08:56 PM
#3
I have heard that the 2OTL exhaust actually flows better because it is a straight through muffler and dosnt have the crossflow making turbulence and slowing down the exhaust. Just stick a cutout right before where the pipe goes up to go over the axle.
10-09-2007, 10:12 PM
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cutout sounds like the right idea, however, i just lost to a Nissan 350z tonight from a 40 roll, so I need more power...I am going to sell my sound system and up my modding funds...
hell yes, 1000 posts
hell yes, 1000 posts
10-09-2007, 11:13 PM
#6
Why don't you get a simple tune up? Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, k&n recharged....... transmission oil cooler(might not increase performance by much but tranny will like it
) port intake/heads, maybe a cam....
) port intake/heads, maybe a cam....
10-10-2007, 07:34 AM
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I ordered some MSD wires, NGK plugs, Hypertech T-stat, and a cutout...I know I won't get a seat of the pants feel with this, but I'll be a ble to get my stupid SES code scanned and fixed, and hopefully the plugs and wires freshen the motor up a bit.
Another quick think, I ordered the NGK TR6-IX plugs because I plan to run nitrous within the next couple of months. Are these OK to run if I am not spraying yet?
Another quick think, I ordered the NGK TR6-IX plugs because I plan to run nitrous within the next couple of months. Are these OK to run if I am not spraying yet?
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10-10-2007, 11:56 PM
#12
If those are Iridium plugs your engine will/might go KABOOM!!!! Use a regular copper plug for nitrous, many recommend NGKs TR6. Platinium and Iridium become brittle with the touch of NO2, it wears out the electrode.... what happens if it wears out the electrode? Just picture it in the combustion chamber.... air, fuel plus nitrous.... no spark....
10-11-2007, 09:07 PM
#15
Wires should be ok... but from experience I only installed 8mm on my LT1, why you might ask? Its a tight fit thru the stock location where the stock wires run, for example on the passenger side, they run very close to the power steering pump, in cases, the pulley ruins a couple of wires. Take your time and those 8.5mm should work, but if you plan on running NO2, avoid platinium or iridium plugs, plus they don't last the almost 100,000 mile they claim...
10-12-2007, 12:52 AM
#17
TR6 with boost or juice, TR55 NA. Good starting point. TR6s may foul if not running juice much. Read the plugs right after a good hard run (run hard shut off before revs drop, read plugs (ALL of them), see if you need to go hotter or colder at that point. Also, realize that with juice, you better keep a spare couple sets of plugs in the car and be prepared to change 'em at the track.
The 8.5 MSDs do fit, but be SURE to route through the factory looms!!!!! If not you WILL burn a wire where they hit the headers. Also, a real pain in the butt to get in the factor routing around the alternator, and they MUST be in the factory routing. With long tubes, the Thunder Racing over the valvecover kit is absolutely the way to go. What you pay for is the priviledge of NOT burning the wires regularly.
Cutout > catback for power. I liked the stealth approach with it closed.... but you'll end up buying a powered cutout soon. It's a pain to keep crawling under the car.
After the cutout, next mod should be long tubes.
All this assumes you already did gears: 4.10 for a M6, 3.73 for an auto. Add a 3200 stall for the auto to the gears and you'll LOVE the results... even without additional power mods. Some say 3200 is too much stall for an LT1... but you'll need it eventually if you keep modding, and mine was by far the best mod I ever did. BEST seat of the pants improvement of ANY mod.
The 8.5 MSDs do fit, but be SURE to route through the factory looms!!!!! If not you WILL burn a wire where they hit the headers. Also, a real pain in the butt to get in the factor routing around the alternator, and they MUST be in the factory routing. With long tubes, the Thunder Racing over the valvecover kit is absolutely the way to go. What you pay for is the priviledge of NOT burning the wires regularly.
Cutout > catback for power. I liked the stealth approach with it closed.... but you'll end up buying a powered cutout soon. It's a pain to keep crawling under the car.
After the cutout, next mod should be long tubes.
All this assumes you already did gears: 4.10 for a M6, 3.73 for an auto. Add a 3200 stall for the auto to the gears and you'll LOVE the results... even without additional power mods. Some say 3200 is too much stall for an LT1... but you'll need it eventually if you keep modding, and mine was by far the best mod I ever did. BEST seat of the pants improvement of ANY mod.
10-12-2007, 10:40 AM
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gears and stall are coming next...i am waiting on the long tubes because my car will pass emissions the way it sits right now, I only need to pass one more time before I never have to go again. Then I can pull all the emissions crap off and go with off-road headers...