LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

has anyone rebuilt there motor with this kit?

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Old 10-11-2007, 10:46 AM
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Default has anyone rebuilt there motor with this kit?

Iv always seen this kit and seems pretty cheap for it all. For a real basic rebuild with some forged pistons. Seems like some cheap insurance, or is the kit just that.. cheap? Seems like for $600 if your on a budget its a pretty cool little kit.
Also comes in stock bore, .030 .040 .060

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Old 10-11-2007, 10:50 AM
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Just bear in mind that not all forged pistons are made the same, the Silicon content really determines how good they are. The higher the content, the less expansion rate (i.e. less of not zero piston slap/expanding/contracting), but if is hit with too much n2o and detonation occurs the piston can shatter easier compared to a non silicon piston.

If you have no intentions of juicing it or throwing a blower on it, cast pistons are fine and they are lighter.

If you are planning on more then all motor, look into JE pistons, Eagle rods (H-beams), and a decent crank (callies).

Because there is always time to do the job right the 2nd time.
Old 10-11-2007, 11:40 AM
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gotcha. I do have a kit on my car now so i plan on sprayin it the whole time. How bout just some JE pistons on stock rods/crank? Iv seen some pretty good numbers out of that combo. If i keep the kit down to a 150 shot or so.
Old 10-11-2007, 03:03 PM
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I'd do the rods too, they are not a weak point but their reliabity can be called into question, if you want, leave the stock crank in and do the pistons and rods. Thats what I honestly would do.
Old 10-11-2007, 03:27 PM
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now what about knife cutting the crank and or polishing it, do people still do that? What kind of power do you actually need to make to break a crank anyways??
Old 10-11-2007, 10:31 PM
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Those kits do last, I have a friend who owns a 1969 Chevelle, he has a 383 old school stroker engine rebuilt with one of those kits (see they're kits and they sell one for a 383) and the engine is still running strong! It has been more than a year and the car doesn't burn oil or anything, car runs very nice consistent 12.80s at the track, car is not a daily driver but it does get a lot of weekend cruising time, runs 2 times per month at the track, with many track passes each time.
Old 10-11-2007, 10:33 PM
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I gues it all depends on taking the time to put it together the right way...
Old 10-11-2007, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
now what about knife cutting the crank and or polishing it, do people still do that? What kind of power do you actually need to make to break a crank anyways??
From what i have seen most newer good cranks come race prepped with all that already done.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by transam5.7lt1
Those kits do last, I have a friend who owns a 1969 Chevelle, he has a 383 old school stroker engine rebuilt with one of those kits (see they're kits and they sell one for a 383) and the engine is still running strong! It has been more than a year and the car doesn't burn oil or anything, car runs very nice consistent 12.80s at the track, car is not a daily driver but it does get a lot of weekend cruising time, runs 2 times per month at the track, with many track passes each time.

Apples and oranges. NA vs juice is two very different things.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
gotcha. I do have a kit on my car now so i plan on sprayin it the whole time. How bout just some JE pistons on stock rods/crank? Iv seen some pretty good numbers out of that combo. If i keep the kit down to a 150 shot or so.

Stock rods may be an OK budget choice, but strongly consider ARP rod bolts.




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