rudeLT1

iTrader: (1)

Ok so after some research i think im leaning towards a cc503. from what i can tell this is the best cam, and the biggest i think, to run on stock heads. and since im a poor college student im not gonna be able to do heads for like a year or 2 after this cam swap. so i searched to see what needs to go along with a cam swap and came along this thread

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...03#post4951767

and well honestly im still confused about what all i need. like i said im a poor college student and am lookin to see what the basic things i need to swap with the new cam, stuff that can wait for later im not gonna worry about,and stock items that can handle this cam will stay in as long as they will be reliable, im just looking for some more hp and a reliable dd thats not gonna crap out on me.

so with all that being said (sorry so long guys), whats the basic required items with this cam swap?

this is in my 94 formula m6, 64k miles

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You need a lot of mods before it is time to think about a cam. Gears 4.10s are good for the M6, headers, catback, CAI, maybe a TB, subframe connectors and maybe some other suspension work. Wheelhop will destroy the 7.5" axle so suspension work saves parts.

Also if you came up with this as being the best cam then you need to keep going to school and learn to do better research. This is a decent cam, nothing more.

With the cam consider a vented opti conversion or at least MSD cap and rotor which I think will give you a vent for the current opti, matching valvesprings with retainers, locks and locators, roller rockers, and then you should check valvetrain gemometry and consider new pushrods in appropriate length.

Really since buying parts anyway you might consider going to 7/16 studs and non-sa rockers with guideplates.

I recommend pulling the motor and putting a higher pressure relief spring in the oilpump, less for the higher pressure and more for the fact it is a fresh spring as the original is old and low pressure to begin with and probably not holding the pressure it was designed too.

I would discourage anyone on too tight a budget from doing a cam. All it takes is a piece of dirt or a slip with the cam and there go bearings and a lot of extra money.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

^I agree with the above statement! Do all you can to your car with out touching the motor first! If you take the right steps and do a little weight reduction, a full bolt-on m6 will run mid 12's easily. Start with pacesetter LT's, full aftermarket exhaust of somekind, a cold air intake, 4.10 gears, new plugs, wires, 180 thermostat, DR's, and a tune(mail order atleast or dyno tune would be best but not required on a stock motor). Then the time would come to decied whether or not you want to sacrafice some sreetability for et's. If you want more et then it would be time to think about full suspension mods, weight reduction, brakes, and light weight racing wheels. Such as 15x10 draglites with bfgoodrich dr's or mt et streets. Then it's time to do engine mods! Now I know everybody is different, but with you being budget minded, this would be the best way to approach your situation in my opinion. Just throwing a cam in your car right now might be disappointing and cause you to sell it. Search around this happens alot. You have to do supprting mods to maximize the gains of a cam swap or any enigine mods for that matter!!!

rudeLT1

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys but ive got some stuff done already and im looking at this to me my next step. but my car has never seen the track and the nearest is like 2 hours away and im moving there next year but thats another story. im looking to do this during the summer and am scoping out my options.

i kno gears would be good, but im not looking into anything that in depth, and gas mileage does me something to me, and i kno gas mileage go get a honda blah blah, im lookin at headers same time as cam swap if not before the summer, dr's are not in my plans for a long time as my car is 99% street(for now).

and 96caprice, when you say this is a decent cam and nothing more, what would u suggest, im open for options but for a while, couple years most likely, im going to run stock heads and ive seen this is a really good cam for stock heads. i was more into the required things as in springs, valve retainers/locks, pushrods, rockers....that are absolutely NEEDED with a cam swap. no worries about dirt or slipping into a bearing or anything, i kno my way around a car and ive got access to all tools needed, a lift, etc...

also my car is not going anywhere, the only reason i can see to sell it is when gas hits 6-7 bucks a gallon so...besides when i graduate and get my career goin this is goin to be a track only car....

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Here is a list of everything I used all the way down to part numbers.

CC503 cam
1305-16 CC Pro-Magnum Rockers 7/16" stud (1:6 ratio)
26918-16 CC Beehive Spring
795-16 CC Steel Retainers (LT1 for 918 springs)
611-16 CC 10 degree Lock (11/32 super lock)
134-7103 Arp (Rocker Arm Stud) 7/16"
14011051 GM Guide Plates
4705-16 seats

I used my stock pushrods since 94's had factory hardened pushrods. You also don't necessarily need everything I used. If you got self aligning roller rockers then you won't need the different guide plates and you could use the stock studs. I just wanted a more stable valvetrain so when I upgrade I won't have to do valvetrain again.

rudeLT1

iTrader: (1)

hey thanks alot porksoda, thats what i was looking for

REDHOtTransAM

iTrader: (3)

Stay in school. You got an "F" on that run-on sentence. Also, DR (drag radials) work well on the street. Don't put it too far off down the road. They will help you out!

projekt70chevelle

iTrader: (4)

StealthFormula helped me out with some of the parts for the swap. His suggestions that he included in his set up included:
Chromoley trickflow 7.2"Pushrods-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Crane springs-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

CC503 cam-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...QQcmdZViewItem

Comp cams self-aligning rr's-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...8672QQtcZphoto

Cam swap gasket kit (part number111-115-LT)-
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=157

I went with a custom version of the 503 (wider lsa), but im using the same springs and roller rockers. I also replaced the timing chain. I decided to put new lifters in since im pushing 142,XXX miles. Im pretty sure stock replacements will be fine but i found a good deal on some comp r lifters (really depends on your mileage and condition of the engine).

rudeLT1

iTrader: (1)

yeah thanks...i pm'ed him a couple days ago and he hooked me up with the same info....good guy glad he helped, im looking into either what he suggested or what porksoda suggested, it just depends on how much green stuff i wanna sacrifice this summer


and on a sidenote about my grammar, i dont care lol im done with english it sucked ***** and i never have to do it again...mechanical engineering baby!!! also i am top of all my classes so boo yah!!

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

I'd say stealthformula has a goos combination if that all your going to do or maybe a bit more. Like I said I went a little more expensive since I plan on getting heads and spraying...you know the whole works. I just wanted to do valvetrain 1 time and 1 time only so i went with the most stable way I could afford at the time.

joelster

If you are really on a tight budget you can run your stockrockers (1.5) with a set of LT4 valve springs. The LT4 springs are good to .525 lift. They WILL NOT work if you upgrade your rockers to a 1.6 ratio. FWIW I put the 503 cam in my car and the only other mod I had was a cat-back, CAI, and gears. I did it because I was on vacation and knew that I had plenty of time to take my time and do it right. I was fully aware that it is not considered the correct way to mod a car ie: bolt-ons first, then internal stuff, but it worked out just fine. So, basically you could do the cam (250ish) with the LT4 springs (35ish) and then you'd need gaskets, maybe 50 bucks. Get yourself a tune ASAP, after the install.

rudeLT1

iTrader: (1)

yeah porksoda i totally gotcha dude, im not planning on spraying or fi without building a fully forged h/c......which is years and years off. im jus basically looking into a cam now, then some ported heads in the future to add more to it. along with the supporting mods along the way.

joelster you sound like you did the same as im wanting to do and that seems to be the most cost effective option so far. of course im going to get a tune, most likely madz28, and LT's as well. and yea its not the most common option of modding, but no 2 people are alike....

rasputin

iTrader: (3)

whats wrong with the CC503? its not custom??? yeah its in my sig so obviously I am curious