Bad_tx_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys... i was just curious about the battery relocation kits that i have seen...is it worth it?? I have a optima yellow top and its pretty tight fit by the radiator...its hitting my low coolant sensor, but it fits...just wondering what ya'lls opinions are...thanks!! LMK!

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

IF its a DD I would keep it where it is, Ive heard that putting the battery in the back can result in slow starting and wouldnt wanna deal with it if it was my DD, although it does clean up the engine bay

Biggin'89

iTrader: (2)

There is a guy that comes into my work that did it on his T/A and he swears it was a night and day difference of how it performed. If you think about the concept, it makes sense to put the weight in back so it doesn't have to be "lifted" in the weight transfer.

This guys does both autocross and drag racing and likes it for both worlds. It is a semi-dd tho. (as long as it isn't going to rain or be nasty he dd's it)

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

with a battery like the optima(yellow top)and the proper type of cables and of course good grounds you should have NO problems

jasonp31

Slow starting? Only way I see that happening, is with poor grounds as mentioned above, and not upgrading the size of power AND ground cables as the cable length is going to be quite a bit longer.

Bad_tx_Z28

iTrader: (3)

okay..sounds good. What kit should i go with??. I know BMR make a bracket that puts the battery where the spare tire goes...not too sure.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

BMR works nice and looks clean

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

I agree if installed and grounded properly you should not have issues. We do suggest the BMR bracket and using 1 OT welding cable along with some good lugs. The cable can be found at a welding supply store and lugs and your local parts store.

GL

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

I really want to do this too, but the idea of drilling a whole in my rear end for a cutoff switch is the only thing keeping me away from it.

transampimp

iTrader: (1)

I've been considering this mod. You do end up added a substantial amount of weight with heavy wire. However I still think moving most of the weight to the back helps. I'm not sure, but I was told you need a cut of switch for at the track if you have it in the trunk?

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

[QUOTE=transampimp;8375061]I've been considering this mod. You do end up added a substantial amount of weight with heavy wire. However I still think moving most of the weight to the back helps. I'm not sure, but I was told you need a cut of switch for at the track if you have it in the trunk?[/QUOTE]

you do

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

You wont make it past track tech if you dont have an external cut-off switch for a rear mounted battery...for street cars most tracks wont tech to thoroghly. Plus in our cars you can hide it really well. Wont be able to get certified without it but then again I dont think too many people here are looking to get NHRA certified

I've been looking at doing this also...havent heard of using welding wire though. Will have to check that out. Most folks I know just use a heavy grade cable from Home Depot or Lowes.

1sicss

iTrader: (3)

Where can I get a good kit for moving the battery to rear with good ground cable and good power cables already with it. Where are the good grounding spot to ground the ground cable.

1FstFormulaV8

Taylor makes a nice kit. It sells for $149. I'm going to relocate my battery pretty soon. Pretty much any solid, clean chassis point is good. I would stay clear of the rear deck area due to the fuel tank.

glocklimited9

iTrader: (3)

i did mine, and have done mine to all my cars. Factory wiring for these cars is really poor with their group grounds and such, i have never had a problem with my trunk mounted bat, i didnt use any kit at all just got about 20 feet of cable, and heater hose to wrap it in so it doesnt rub on anything, IMO you would be crazy to run a power wire without running it in heater hose.. anyhow, my car and all my cars for that matter had more voltage after, cranked faster, and had brighter headlights. Since i suck as posting pics heres a link to mine

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/100_4162.jpg

BoostedZ28

One thing to consider, re-locating a battery into the driver's compartment of a vehicle can present some safety issues. First as mentioned earlier in this post, the positive cable most definately needs to be properly secured and attached to the vehicle to ensure the insulation of the cable won't become damaged, causing a short and potential fire. Secondly, as the battery charges, it generates hydrogen gas which is explosive. It is recommended if relocating a battery to the rear in a 4th gen, that it be installed in a sealed and vented battery box. Additionally, if anyone is wanting to drag race their car, NHRA/IHRA rules require either a "bulkhead" between the driver's compartment and the battery or a sealed and properly vented battery box. As mentioned above as well, they also then require a battery disconnect switch with specific locations and labling. Just something to consider. That being said, I relocated mine as well, using an NHRA approved box that Taylor makes. Here's a couple of not so good pictures:

nicks2ndz

iTrader: (13)

i believe they have eliminated the need for a sealed and vented box this year in the rule book if you are using a sealed battery....correct me if im wrong i know it was discussed as a rule change and heard it went through but i haven't seen this year's rule book

joelster

Taking your heavy-*** Optima battery to the trunk MAY help your 60-foot times at the track. As for the other 1260 feet of the track, it just is added weight. Think about this for a second. You can relocate your 50 lb battery to the back. Add a tray. An NHRA approved sealed box. A dual-circuit disconnect switch. A heavy guage 14 foot positive cable. A heavy guage short negative cable. In total your battery setup now weighs about 65lbs total ( at least), and cost you an extra 200 bucks. Or you can get one of those lightweght dry-cell batteries, like an Oddysee 680 for about $115.00 or so, and leave it up front.It weighs just 15lbs. The company Braille Auto makes an even lighter battery at 11lbs, but it costs around $175ish. 50lbs off of your car is roughly .05 in the 1/4 mile.

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

imo the only gain is the added space under the hood, and the cleaner appearance in the engine bay

94 F-body

iTrader: (1)

I would add that for the street it would also help handling, but on the track it would only aide weight transfer.