ls2pontiac

iTrader: (1)

I need some help picking out a reliable, but fun combo for my LT1 SS....not sure how long my 350 is going to last as I have revved it to 6000 a few times, and who knows what the old owner did to it.

I was thinking a Forged 355 (stock LT1 block, Bored .30 over...) setup, for a NA application. can anyone list a good set of parts to throw in it that won't break the bank too bad, but still give me a reliable setup to drive daily and take to the track also? I was looking at other threads and have some ideas, but still cant come to a conclusion.

Thanks!!

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD067...gAssembly.aspx

this was the combo that i was going to do when i get money

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

That is a two-piece rear main crank.
Why would you use 5.700" rods if buying new ones and new pistons???

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

what would be a better 355 rotating assembley then for the money? like budget.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

http://www.compstarcomponents.com/
Going to cost more like $2000-2100, may not be the cheapest but is the best value out there. Could consider the rods and Mahle pistons with a stock crank too.

street demon2k3

iTrader: (3)

You can reuse your stock crank/rods and buy some SpeedPro forged pistons. Have the machine shop zero deck your block and you should be ready N/A or some spray. A friend did the same thing with a lot of nitrous and its been mid 10's@127mph revving past 6500RPM. Your stock bottom end will handle 6K RPM with no problems, just dont go too crazy with it.

edit: Just saw you have LT4 heads/cam

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

where can i get these forged pistons? the speed pros i checked summit to no avail

street demon2k3

iTrader: (3)

Here you go buddy, this should cover it if your gonna reuse the stock crank/rods. You might be able to get everything together for under $1K depending on the prices for machine work.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294891094

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

is that for a 355 it says 350. i put in the lt1 and they didn't have it does it not matter?

street demon2k3

iTrader: (3)

All LT1's are SBC so all internals are all interchangable. If I'm not mistaken those pistons were for a 350 but .030 over which is 355ci using the stock 3.48 stroke. The good thing is that all the internals are pretty much the same except for the 1-peice rear main seal, but everything stays the same.

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

oh ok i didnt know that. my friend told me that keithblack pistons are pretty good. any word on those?

B-Rad420

iTrader: (1)

Why do you ask this question? Are 6.0 rods are better for a n/a application? Thanks, Brad

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

x2 id like to know this as well

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

6.0" rod means a lighter piston, lighter piston is easier on rods/bolts/bearings, not a huge deal but I just don'ty see a point in staying with the heavier 5.700 combo if buying parts anyway.

On the KB stuff I have heard too much about out of round.

For a budget 355 I would probably contact one of my favorite vendors and get the Mahle piston/compstar rod kit for about $1100, have it balanced locally with the stock crank. Not the cheapest option but a good value.
One of the most expensive and important things I have learned is price and value are different and that cheapest is rarely least expensive.

I have bought too many of similar parts over and over already so now I look to try and do things a little overkill. I have bought 3 sets of new rockers, 2 ignition systems(neither did much), 2 tranny builds, 4 torque converters, 2 sets of gears, two rear axles, the list goes on. Now not all that repition could have been avoided but some of it definetely could have been and now that I know what I am doing I could do a lot of good with that wasted money.