caldercay

Well, I thought I would do a complete coolant flush. Drained the radiator,
removed the driver's side block drain plug, then went to the passenger
side to remove the knock sensor . . . it wont budge. I used a 22mm
socket on the sensor's "hex head" and the sensor's "outer body" began
to turn (it's apparently a two-piece unit), but the main body of the
unit would not turn.

I used vice grips on the sensor's OD, but it slipped off and bumped
the electrical "snout", which broke slightly (the snout being what the
electrical connector snaps on to). The snout didnt break off cleanly,
but only partially, so I pushed it back straight and put the connector
back on.

I think i am going to leave the sensor in place and not worry about
draining that side of the block. Could there be a side-effect because
the electrical connector snout broke? What might I expect as a worse
case condition (engine timing problems)?

What's the secret tool to removing the knock sensor?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

If you removed the drain plug on the other side you don't really need to also remove the knock sensor, you should have gotten pretty much all of the coolant out with just the plug. If you want to be really sure, just spray some water into the radiator neck to force it through the block.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Dunno man, I did mine the other day and it came off with the 22mm. Maybe you need a 22mm deep socket.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You seem to not realize that in the block the two sides function basically independantly, the WP and "steam pipe" are the only crossovers between the sides.

Knock sensors are best to replace if removed and at this point if I were you I would be dousing it in PB Blaster or the like and try again maybe with the engine warm though in that case just crack it loose and wait for it to cool before actually unscrewing, we don't want to hear about you getting burned.

I never cut one apart but between the housing rotating and the connector cracking I would be sufficiently concerned about compromised function to persist and get it changed.

caldercay

Yea - as I said, the sensor is a "two-piece" casing - the base of the sensor,
which screws into the block, has a lip that crimps around the "outer" portion
(facing away from the block). So, I put the 22mm socket on there and
turned, and yes, the socket turned, but I noticed the *whole* sensor did not
turn, but only the outer portion (which is crimped upon by the base portion).

The only way I see it happening at this point is to use channel locks.

caldercay

Yea, and I'm old enough to know better, but I think I'm going to hold off
replacing it for the moment. A post from another forum enticed me to visit
shoebox's site so that I can check the specs:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#knock_sensor

Mechanically, the unit is fine - there are not leaks.

I measured the ohms and am reading 3920 between the pin and the block
(range is 3300-4500) and with the key on, there should be 5v, which I'm
reading, so for now, we're looking fine electrically. This isnt my DD (making
it the Fri-Sun car ) Also, I plan to do a engine rebuild in the near future.

After a bit of scrutinizing, it appears my only hope, if I were to replace it,
would be to drop the starter to give me some room to get channel locks
in that space and for leverage.

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

dont feel bad. same thing happened to me when i was disassembling my block. took it to the machine shop with it still in there and he said they normally use either channel locks or vice grips on them once it breaks like that. i would keep an eye on that sensor though since you plan to still run it.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

while we are on the subject of KS, when i did my starter, is it normal for the connector to wiggle or feel loose?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Try to tighten it before loosening, that should help break it loose.