How much power gain from lt4 hotcam to cc503
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How much power gain from lt4 hotcam to cc503
i have a stock full bolt on lt1 with a4 trans and lt4 hotcam. how much power will i gain if i switch cams to the cc503. will it be a noticable difference or just a waste of money and time?
cc503 (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
lt4 hotcam (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
cc503 (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
lt4 hotcam (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
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You will gain more hp/tq throughout the mid range and on the top end and have a nicer sounding idle but thats alot of time and money spent on gaskets, the cam etc. for the gains you will see. If you want to change cams I would recommend going custom which would better justify the time and money spent because you would have more noticible gains not only at peak but throughout the entire rpm range than you would have by swapping to the cc503.
#4
I would suggest saving a little more money and throw some heads on the thing. The cc503 is a great cam, but there is no point in spending all that money and time on a cam swap again for the small gain you would receive. Custom cam and head swap would be well worth it though
You could also go out and buy a cheap wet kit and spray it with a 75 shot, be alot happier with the power, and not even spend half as much. And at the same time get the stock drivability that you get from the hotcam.
Plus you have to take in the shift point factor. With the stock 4l60e i wouldn't wanna take too high in the rpm range.
You could also go out and buy a cheap wet kit and spray it with a 75 shot, be alot happier with the power, and not even spend half as much. And at the same time get the stock drivability that you get from the hotcam.
Plus you have to take in the shift point factor. With the stock 4l60e i wouldn't wanna take too high in the rpm range.
#6
AAk Z28 do you have any numbers for the car (dyno or track)? Because you can compare your numbers to the average cc503 owner's numbers and see how much you will actually gain. Plus, what valve train set up do you have>? Do you just have the lt4 springs, or are they something that can stand up to the abuse of the 503? If you only have to spend money on the cam and gaskets, you may be happy with the results... But then again you could always spend the money on more mods (spray, heads, stall, or suspension) rather than just changing the ones you already have.
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i have a stock full bolt on lt1 with a4 trans and lt4 hotcam. how much power will i gain if i switch cams to the cc503. will it be a noticable difference or just a waste of money and time?
cc503 (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
lt4 hotcam (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
cc503 (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
lt4 hotcam (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Gears, stall, juice, would all be better approaches. I agree with
The cc503 is a great cam, but there is no point in spending all that money and time on a cam swap again for the small gain you would receive...
You could also go out and buy a cheap wet kit and spray it with a 75 shot, be alot happier with the power, and not even spend half as much. And at the same time get the stock drivability that you get from the hotcam.
You could also go out and buy a cheap wet kit and spray it with a 75 shot, be alot happier with the power, and not even spend half as much. And at the same time get the stock drivability that you get from the hotcam.
Good luck
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everyone says its a waste of time but i have to pull the water pump to seal the optispark and the water pump drive gear gasket is leaking so i have to pull the timing cover so is it stil a waste since i have to pull that stuff anyway?
#14
Why would he want to put something that big in there with stock heads? Not to mention he would be pushing the limits of the stock bottom end revving the thing to where that cam wants to shift at. Then add on the factor of the stock 4L60e and not nearly steep enough gears or high enough stall. It would be pointless. Besides the minimal power gain due to the inability to use that cam the way its made to, he would only gain a drop in drivability and terrible street manners.
If I was you AAk Z28 i would just try and wait out the leak. If you keep an eye on it then you'll be fine. Just wait til you have the paper to pick up a nice set of heads and custom cam. Or at least begin with stall and gears.
If I was you AAk Z28 i would just try and wait out the leak. If you keep an eye on it then you'll be fine. Just wait til you have the paper to pick up a nice set of heads and custom cam. Or at least begin with stall and gears.
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BUT if you have to pull the timing cover you still don't have to pull valve covers, rockers, push rods, lifters, fuel injection rail, intake so it isn't like you have the cam already in your hand.
Also remember you will still need to take the radiator out, and of course hold the condenser out of the way. It is your car, but when it is done you won't have added alot of hp. If you were choosing a cam I would say choose the 503, but at this point...
I stand on the answer don't do it!
#16
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[QUOTE=projekt70chevelle;9416624]Why would he want to put something that big in there with stock heads? Not to mention he would be pushing the limits of the stock bottom end revving the thing to where that cam wants to shift at. Then add on the factor of the stock 4L60e and not nearly steep enough gears or high enough stall. It would be pointless. Besides the minimal power gain due to the inability to use that cam the way its made to, he would only gain a drop in drivability and terrible street manners.
I agree although, the 230/236 is very streetable in a 383 with ported heads. Im runnin mine on 3.42 gears with no problems. I caint wait for the 4.10 swap though. It would be a little big for a stock headed lt-1, so dont do it unless you get gears and port your stock heads!!
I agree although, the 230/236 is very streetable in a 383 with ported heads. Im runnin mine on 3.42 gears with no problems. I caint wait for the 4.10 swap though. It would be a little big for a stock headed lt-1, so dont do it unless you get gears and port your stock heads!!
#17
I agree although, the 230/236 is very streetable in a 383 with ported heads. Im runnin mine on 3.42 gears with no problems. I caint wait for the 4.10 swap though. It would be a little big for a stock headed lt-1, so dont do it unless you get gears and port your stock heads!!
Well of course its streetable with that set up. The 383 and ported heads tames the cam alot, not to mention the fact that you are runnin an M6, not an auto. The cc503 is "a little big for stock heads" and that is only on a 224/230. A duration like the one you mentioned is completely pointless unless you plan on spinning it high. And it is very unlikely that his motor or trans will last long doing that. A big cam is awesome... but if you don't, or can't, use it to its potential you are doing nothing but sacrificing drivability and gas mileage.
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See my sig., my old 93 T/A made 372 Rwhp with a hotcam.....see the attached dyno sheet:
http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/e...2Image0051.jpg
Had to shift at 6k because of some old valve springs, which cost me about 10 RWHP.
http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/e...2Image0051.jpg
Had to shift at 6k because of some old valve springs, which cost me about 10 RWHP.