valve adjustment with alt in way...
#1
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valve adjustment with alt in way...
just got done doing head gaskets on my 94 lt1.
i need to know how should i adjust the valve? im guessing i have to do it while its off because the alt is in the way.
everytime i adjust valves, i set them close with the pushrod method, and then fire it up, let it build some oil pressure and then adjust them while running.
but on the TA it seem's i cant because the alt is right over top of the valve cover.
so i guess i have to do the IOEC method?
thanks.
aaron
i need to know how should i adjust the valve? im guessing i have to do it while its off because the alt is in the way.
everytime i adjust valves, i set them close with the pushrod method, and then fire it up, let it build some oil pressure and then adjust them while running.
but on the TA it seem's i cant because the alt is right over top of the valve cover.
so i guess i have to do the IOEC method?
thanks.
aaron
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So start the car, get oil pressure built up (what, 15seconds max?) then shut it down, take off the alternator and fire it back up. Adjust the valves that you need to, shut it down, put the alternator back on and do the rest
#4
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I know that there's a lot of disagreement over this, but I think you can get a more accurate adjustment with the engine hot and running...Obviously you have to be careful and have good ears, to pick up when the lifter just starts to click, and not continue to loosen the adjusting nut until you pop the pushrod out of place.....
Having said that... remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the battery positive lead, remove the alternator, place a 12" length of rubber hose over the power lead from the back of the alternator in order to insulate it, and duct tape it securely to the fenderwell, making sure the power terminal is a couple of inches down in the hose, reconnect the battery. Start engine, and adjust away to your hearts' content.
When satisfied, disconnect the battery, install valve covers, alternator and belt, reconnect alternator THEN battery, and happy motoring!
Having said that... remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the battery positive lead, remove the alternator, place a 12" length of rubber hose over the power lead from the back of the alternator in order to insulate it, and duct tape it securely to the fenderwell, making sure the power terminal is a couple of inches down in the hose, reconnect the battery. Start engine, and adjust away to your hearts' content.
When satisfied, disconnect the battery, install valve covers, alternator and belt, reconnect alternator THEN battery, and happy motoring!
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I know that there's a lot of disagreement over this, but I think you can get a more accurate adjustment with the engine hot and running...Obviously you have to be careful and have good ears, to pick up when the lifter just starts to click, and not continue to loosen the adjusting nut until you pop the pushrod out of place.....
Having said that... remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the battery positive lead, remove the alternator, place a 12" length of rubber hose over the power lead from the back of the alternator in order to insulate it, and duct tape it securely to the fenderwell, making sure the power terminal is a couple of inches down in the hose, reconnect the battery. Start engine, and adjust away to your hearts' content.
When satisfied, disconnect the battery, install valve covers, alternator and belt, reconnect alternator THEN battery, and happy motoring!
Having said that... remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the battery positive lead, remove the alternator, place a 12" length of rubber hose over the power lead from the back of the alternator in order to insulate it, and duct tape it securely to the fenderwell, making sure the power terminal is a couple of inches down in the hose, reconnect the battery. Start engine, and adjust away to your hearts' content.
When satisfied, disconnect the battery, install valve covers, alternator and belt, reconnect alternator THEN battery, and happy motoring!
I agree with getting a more accurate adjustment with the motor running. Just saves having to do it down the road after some mileage is put on.
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I've done it with the car on, and the alternator on as well. I take off the the alternator, valve covers, put the alternator back on and adjust. I am pretty close to the alternator positive terminal, but I know it's there. Insulating it would be even better.
#10
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i have done it both ways.
IOEC method when its cold is easy when the motor is out and you have room, but my when its in the car, its much easier to tighten to zero lash (pushrod method), and then do final when its running.
thanks for the advice guys.
aaron
IOEC method when its cold is easy when the motor is out and you have room, but my when its in the car, its much easier to tighten to zero lash (pushrod method), and then do final when its running.
thanks for the advice guys.
aaron
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Honestly, I'd have left it all connected still and just moved. Unless the cable is in the way of something, but I'm sure it has enough room.
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