My94TransAm

I posted up in the brake section, but wasnt getting to many hits. But I am doing the LS1 brake upgrade. I have only the calipers, rotors, spindles, pads and the brake lines that attach directly to the calipers.

1. I have no hardware to attach the spindles to the car. Will my hardware work for the LS1?

2. I want to put steel braided lines on there. Do I need LS1 lines or LT1 lines?

3. I only want lines for the front, is this going to be ok? I dont feel that the back are as important and I dont want to spend the money on them.

Thanks in advanced for your help!

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

1. Your existing ball joints and tie rod ends are fine.

2. LS1 lines

3. There is only one line in the back. May as well get the three as a set.

noriceinside

iTrader: (6)

1. by hardware do you mean ball joints? if so like fergy said. they will work fine.

2. ive read somewhere that lt1 lines will work but ive never done this swap and since you want to upgrade anyway get ls1 lines.

3. there are actually 5 lines on the vehicle. i would never replace just the front. if you really want to you will be okay, but doing so will cause unequal application of front and rear braking. thats the reason for metering and proportioning valves in braking systems. youre safer getting the whole kit.

noriceinside

iTrader: (6)

by the way, never use the phrases "i dont feel its important" and "i dont wanna spend the money" when referring to brakes.

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

i just did the ls1 front brake swap. I still have the lt1 lines installed. no issue. I do have the ls1 lines tho just in case

HAWK429

LOL That ain't no ****!!! Amen brother!

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

did you mount the stock lines going from the top?

i went through 4 copper washers and 32oz of fluid yesterday trying to get the ******* sealed

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

not sure what you mean by "going from the top" but i used the ls1 bolts with the ls1 copper washers. no issue with sealing

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

there could be 2 ways to mount the lines eiter routing from the top of the caliper or from the bottom.

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

the holes for the brake lines with the caliper mounted correctly are located at the top.
if they are located at the botton then the calipers need to be reversed.

so to answer your question from the top

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

ok, cause i had someone PM me about the routing and i was making sure you got it right lol

Slowmaro95Z28

I used the LS1 lines. Everything worked great and still does. I also have a complete LS1 rear so I got the full effect. I would get the LS1 stainless brake line kit.

Cross

iTrader: (10)

Ok I also just finished this and bleed the system today:
1) Yes your A Arm Hardware matches right up. The only reason you have to use the LS1 Hub *** is because they account for the higher mounting of the caliper to allow for the larger Rotor.

2) I am using my LT1 Lines no problems. However use the LT1 Washers!!!! I did one side with the LT's and one with the LS's because I was not paying atten... the LS side leaked so I just bought new ones to try out. Its a very small leak but a leak non the less.

3) I have never touched my rears yet but if your going to do the upgrade do them all. Its like putting a bigger straw on a smaller one and claiming you got more air into your intake. You have make your front lines firmer but your putting more pressure on your rear rubber (or rubbers I saw mention of only one but was not sure here since i have not looked). So in essence you are only making your rear braking possibly worse and it may put more pressure on the rear rubber due to the limited/to no flex in the fronts... could lead to a problem. (Granted it probably will not but its just basic logic... pressure is going to find the next weakest point... and we know stock lines that are 9-12yrs old are not going to be in great shape....)

Now other then that all I can say is make sure to run some fluid through your calipers to get any debris and any old fluid that may be contaminated out. Its easy even if you do not have a vacuum pump (If not get one to make ur life easier so u can see when the fluid is clear in the cup) just drain it into a non foam cup and empty it after a few times to see when it becomes the normal color of brake fluid. (You now know how to keep your fluid flushed and clear easy job, never a bad idea to do once a yr)

Anyway there ya go quite a few beat me too it but just more confirmation of what they said.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Here are some pics of back when I did mine..


I kept everything that was with the Car the same, all I used was the Rubber Lines on the LS1 Brake Calipers.

I left the Rears alone, I did however delete the ABS, and put in the stock Proportioning Block out of a 1990 Camaro Z28. I had to use a couple of different Lines and re-flare some of the Fittings.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

i went to pepboys and one of the mechanics gave me a handful of copper washers, so i took the ones that matched the closest OD and ID. im also using thick ones against the calipers. so far no leaks

My94TransAm

Thanks guys. I am not going to try to do this. I am unfortuanetly going to have a mechanic put these on. I dont think it would be a good idea to do it since I have ne e3xperience with brakes.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Too bad we can't just use the LS calipers heh Would be nice to be able to upgrade to 2 piston w/o having to shell out more for the rest of the mounting hardware But, the stopping power is in the rotor size, so it really is worth to do everything.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

teaser



and for thoes who were wondering about using the LT1 lines, this is how i did it. using the_merv's picture.

twist the line and place the flat side of the line block against the caliper, and the bolt head side will have the lip from the metal crush connector.