edlebrock, summit brand, BBK, throttle bodys.... any good?
06-08-2008, 03:15 PM
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edlebrock, summit brand, BBK, throttle bodys.... any good? has anyone ran a edlebrock, summit brand, BBK, throttle body? if so how is it? pritty good? because right now i have a Holley and it throws a code to my computer telling it has a TPS sensor messing up and retards the timing when you give it full throttle or almost full throttle. or if all those are junk, which is a good brand? but still good priced?
Thanks,
Jason Muchmore
Thanks,
Jason Muchmore
06-08-2008, 06:22 PM
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I bought a professional products TB for my 94 vette and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the product when I recieved it. I can speak no evil of it, it works perfectly and looks good doing it. I cant come up with any reason to pay more for one of the other brands that you mention, especially with all the problems I have read about associated with them.
Roy
Roy
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06-08-2008, 09:02 PM
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Edel owns BBK, so really it's name preference for which you prefer to own heh
From reading the Holleys have some issues, but the BBKs do as well just less of the time.
People have had luck with the Professional Products, which I think you can only get off eBay. I'd only get one of them for 52 or 54mm since they're stock just ported.
Don't know about Summit, I'd personally stay clear. No reason other than them being a parts seller and in my mind, not a parts maker.
From reading the Holleys have some issues, but the BBKs do as well just less of the time.
People have had luck with the Professional Products, which I think you can only get off eBay. I'd only get one of them for 52 or 54mm since they're stock just ported.
Don't know about Summit, I'd personally stay clear. No reason other than them being a parts seller and in my mind, not a parts maker.
06-08-2008, 10:45 PM
#10
People have had luck with the Professional Products, which I think you can only get off eBay. I'd only get one of them for 52 or 54mm since they're stock just ported.
Don't know about Summit, I'd personally stay clear. No reason other than them being a parts seller and in my mind, not a parts maker.
Don't know about Summit, I'd personally stay clear. No reason other than them being a parts seller and in my mind, not a parts maker.
You can get the Professional Products ones many places other than eBay.
Myself, I have a Holley 58mm. I only had one issue with mine. The throttle blades open too far. I made a throttle stop and problem solved.
06-09-2008, 10:41 AM
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Professional Products is their own brand and makes their own products. They are not bored stock units. They are 100% new. I am fairly certain the Summit brand throttle bodies are reboxed Professional Products units. Summit likely does not make anything that is "Summit Brand"
You can get the Professional Products ones many places other than eBay.
Myself, I have a Holley 58mm. I only had one issue with mine. The throttle blades open too far. I made a throttle stop and problem solved.
You can get the Professional Products ones many places other than eBay.
Myself, I have a Holley 58mm. I only had one issue with mine. The throttle blades open too far. I made a throttle stop and problem solved.
see you might have the same problem i have with my holley as you did yours. does it throw a code saying your TPS sensor is outta wack? and mess with your shifting points (A4)? if so how exactly did you make a throttle stop?
06-09-2008, 10:50 AM
#15
lpe tb is the best if you can afford it. I couldnt so I went with a bbk. Had one issue, the return spring on the side broke. It was an easy fix! Also if you buy a bbk everybody is gonna think you have a blower on it because they whistle at idle.
06-09-2008, 04:26 PM
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Professional Products is their own brand and makes their own products. They are not bored stock units. They are 100% new. I am fairly certain the Summit brand throttle bodies are reboxed Professional Products units. Summit likely does not make anything that is "Summit Brand"
You can get the Professional Products ones many places other than eBay.
Myself, I have a Holley 58mm. I only had one issue with mine. The throttle blades open too far. I made a throttle stop and problem solved.
You can get the Professional Products ones many places other than eBay.
Myself, I have a Holley 58mm. I only had one issue with mine. The throttle blades open too far. I made a throttle stop and problem solved.
Sadly it's not here right now (not on the vehicle and in storage), but my BBK when it was on my TPI had no problems. I did buy it second hand but it didn't appear to have any mods done to it, but I also never too a close look at the throttle blades. I don't recall seeing any holes in them though. Nor it opening too far.
Again, it's been awhile since looking at it closely, but I think mine differs just slightly from this one (TPS part looks extended out farther). This is how I remember the throttle blades though.
http://image.automotive.com/f/buyers...ottle_body.jpg
06-09-2008, 04:38 PM
#20
"if" you feel a larger TB is required check out ASM (arizona speed marine).
the most common problem with "aftermarket" TB's is idle/surge issues. The "fix" is to drill a hole between the blades (same place as on the stock TB). BEFORE you do this you must first scan the car for IAC and TPS counts. You can use a volt meter to read TPS (.67 vdc closed and 4.5 vdc full open) but a scan tool to read IAC (idle air control) wants to be about 32 (30-35) with motor at operating temp.
Your tune is set up assumeing the IAC and TPS counts are 'right" and when they are not the IAC is going ape shiat trying to settle causeing idle up/down issues. Aftermarket TB's do not provide the air inlet hole for the IAC to read.
cracking the blades open will result in the TPS being off. Some do it this way and then "notch" the holes on the TPS to "trick" the PCM because you can then position the TPS off angle from stock.
IMHO the drill mod is the 'right" way. You do need to have the PCM adjusted for a larger TB for a A4 car. line pressure needs to be bumped up or tranny failure will occur. generally stock motors do OK with just a 52 mm without and hole drill...but a stock motor really will not benefit from a larger TB.
for 'plug & play" a bored stock unit, IMHO, works best and does not have the driveability issues with most aftermarket units.
having been down the BBK path and doing the drill mod on it i found the idle OK most of the time but the blade fit to the casting left little to be desired. It was a 'cast" body vs a "billet" one. it is the loose tolerances of the cast unit on the BBK that typically causes the "whistle" between it and the blades at idle.
the most common problem with "aftermarket" TB's is idle/surge issues. The "fix" is to drill a hole between the blades (same place as on the stock TB). BEFORE you do this you must first scan the car for IAC and TPS counts. You can use a volt meter to read TPS (.67 vdc closed and 4.5 vdc full open) but a scan tool to read IAC (idle air control) wants to be about 32 (30-35) with motor at operating temp.
Your tune is set up assumeing the IAC and TPS counts are 'right" and when they are not the IAC is going ape shiat trying to settle causeing idle up/down issues. Aftermarket TB's do not provide the air inlet hole for the IAC to read.
cracking the blades open will result in the TPS being off. Some do it this way and then "notch" the holes on the TPS to "trick" the PCM because you can then position the TPS off angle from stock.
IMHO the drill mod is the 'right" way. You do need to have the PCM adjusted for a larger TB for a A4 car. line pressure needs to be bumped up or tranny failure will occur. generally stock motors do OK with just a 52 mm without and hole drill...but a stock motor really will not benefit from a larger TB.
for 'plug & play" a bored stock unit, IMHO, works best and does not have the driveability issues with most aftermarket units.
having been down the BBK path and doing the drill mod on it i found the idle OK most of the time but the blade fit to the casting left little to be desired. It was a 'cast" body vs a "billet" one. it is the loose tolerances of the cast unit on the BBK that typically causes the "whistle" between it and the blades at idle.