Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Got the car running again a few weeks ago only to have the head gaskets blow out after 5 minutes of run time. I got the M6 swap at the same time which went good, just have to pull the center console back out and adjust my shift stops because I forgot about them. Then my starter decided to self distruct so I put a new starter in and got the new head gaskets put in and the car started fine, no problems at all. Then a couple days later I went out to change the oil and bring the car home (its at my parents and it was raining the days before) and now it won't start. I turn the key and all the gauges come on and everythings good, but when I try to crank it over the solenoid clicks 1 time then all of my gauges go back below zero like there is no power there like when the key is off, but the dome lights, headlights. taillights, and the windows still work, but nothing else. I replaced the battery and still nothing. I haven't checked the wires to the starter yet, but I'm thinking its either that or I melted the wires to the starter on my headers, but there was at least 1" of clearence around everything. Or my new starter is junk. After I try to start it and everything goes away I can wait a minute or so then everything will come back on. The thing that boggles me is it started perfectly fine the first time and all I did is let it run for 10 minutes and then shut it off and adjusted my rockers and then started it for about 5 more minutes and then left it for 3 days.

I know I need to get under there and check everything over, but this car is just pissing me off right now. I can't wait to get it running so I can go beat on it for a bit

But whats your guess on my problem? I'm going out to my parents on wednesday to try to find the problem, but if you want to take a shot at a guess feel free I can use all the help I can gat

Thanks for listening to my little rant HAHA

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

well it sounds like te ignition switch i dont know if you changed it since the a4 and m6 are different i went thru the same thing put on new battery and all but it turned out to be the switch since you were spending time under there putting in the peds maybe you moved it or something

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Yeah I was thinking that too, but it has never given me any sorts of problems before this. Only after I changed the starter, but since the M6 swap the car has been started at least 20 times and after the starter install only twice and now nothing. I'm trying to stay away from that idea since the switch is pretty expensive (I think anyway)

I'm going to go out and have a look at it tomorrow morning, but it kind of seems like there is a loose connection on the starter and its not making a complete circuit. But it could be something with the switch, I unhooked the cable mechanism from the column and it seems to be working properly. Mabye I'll make my brother lay under there and see how many volts are going to the starter.

Thanks for the reply, and keep them coming

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

there only about $22 if i remeber right or it could be the new switch that pushes down with the clutch to start it i just looked at az its $22 w/a4 and $10 w/m6

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

also if u get the one for m6 youll have to have the right bar that goes to it to push when you start the a4 has it for the brake so you can put in gear that i think you said u took that off the m6 has one so when u push in the clutch it will start

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Yeah the neutral saftey switch is good, if I don't push the clutch in and turn the key it doesn't do anything, then push in the clutch and it will click once. Its just strange IMO, but like I said I just need to go and look everything over again. I'm thinking I may have melted a wire against my header or something along those lines.

Thanks again for the help

BTW just looked on autozone and the switch is $43 I thought it was around $150-200

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

good luck and let me know what u find How hard was the swap?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Swap honestly wasn't too bad. I ran into a problem with spec not marking the right side of the pressure plate, they put the flywheel side sticker on the wrong side, so after the tranny was completely installed I had to pull it in and out a couple of time to get everything straightened out. The wiring is what worried me, but it was a breeze. I still need to order the pigtails for the reverse lights and the reverse lockout, but thats not really a concern of mine right now nut it will get done here shortly after its driving again.

Went out tonight to my parents, but my dog got hurt so I just decided to bring him home. I think he might have dislocated his front left leg so I guess I get to take him to the vet and blow some $$$$ on Xrays

But I'm going to head out either in the morning or wednesday morning, I'm not sure yet but I will post up when I find the problem

355z28

iTrader: (8)

i think it sounds like a bad connection. Check the starter wires.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Ok I went out to the parents before work today to look over my car and basically came up with nothing more than a few more ideas.

First of all I climbed under the car and looked over the wiring and everything is in place and tight. I loosened them and retightened them just to be sure and cleaned up the ground wire down by the starter and tried to start it again.........and same as before. So I pulled the starter off and tested it on the bench and it worked perfectly. Reinstalled it and rechecked for burnt wires and still nothing. Neutral saftey switch is still in perfect working order, but the ignition switch felt funny so I pulled the column out and took the switch off and it seemed good, but I got a new one anyways, it was only $13. But I had to go to work so I didn't get it put back together.

But I was telling a couple different people about it and they think it might be the VATS system on the car. If the factory security system arms itself what does the car do? Right now it seems like my car isn't getting enough power to the starter and it acts like the battery is weak. But its brand new and I put it on the charger just to be 100% sure. Also do these cars have a starter relay? If so where is it located and what happens if it goes bad?

Ok thats all I have for now, but if anyone can help me I'd greatly appreciate it

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

what did the switck look like mine had some burn looking marks on it but still it would do the same thing click once or twice. i think that ckick was it throwing a spark at the switch. did u stay with the a4 swtch?

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

http://shbox.com/1/air_bag_disc_2.jpg http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg heres two links someone sent me about bypassing the vat system

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks man I'll check out the link. I went with the M6 switch because the only difference that I could see was the park switch?? The switch that won't let the key turn sompletely off unless its in park. And the M6 switch was $15 cheaper than the A4 switch and they had the M6 switch on hand. My old switch looked ok, but that doesn't really mean anything. I remember a few weeks ago I went out side to roll the windows down and when I turned on the switch the window got about half way down then stopped, then it seemed like the window switch went out, but I cycled the key a couple of times and the windows went down just fine. I didn't have time today to put the new switch in, but I will do it tomorrow morning before work and see what happens. And if that doesn''t work I guess I'll get the old multi meter out and start tracing down the problem.

Thanks again for the help man

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

LOL that happen to me sunday and the window switch is only a few months old so when it went up i didnt try to put it back down

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Found the problem man, turns out that I'm an idiot and when I put my motor back in the car I forgot to tighten the negative ground wire that bolts to the passengers side motor mount LOL The only thing that I can figure out is that when I put everything back together I cleaned all of the bolts up so it still made a contact, but there was some moisture on the garage floor at my parents and casued the bolts to rust and not make a good connection. I tightened the nut down on the stud and she fired right up. I put about 75 miles on it today and this thing is a blast with a 6 speed, won't ever have it any other way ever again, no matter what I get next.

Thanks again for the help I really appreciate it.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

Glad she's running might start looking @ for a m6 car ill just buy one instead of trying to take on that project.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Its really not that bad, if you do all of your own motor work you will be fine. On a scale of 1-10 I'd say that its a 6 and thats with doing a rear swap being about a 4 and a heads change being around a 9. Replacing the head gaskets with the motor in the car was far harder than doing the M6 swap. I still don't have reverse lights or my reverse lockout, but they will come shortly, as soon as I order the pigtails.

But thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. And if you want some more info about the swap look in the manual section me and another guy have a bunch of pics posted of what needs to be done, and if you need any more info or pics feel free to PM me and I'll do my best to answer them.