mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

ok. so im trying to finish my car as a full bolt on. i have lt's, ory, catback, cutout, k&n cai, 160* t-stat, tb bypass, 1LE elbow, no air or egr, stb, and i think thats about it. i plan on finishing the suspension. i was looking at the march underdrive pulley set. are they a good set? and i was also looking at an electric wp. my only concern is how long do they typically last? and is meziere or csr a better brand?

fast

iTrader: (24)

have had good luck with the march pullies and the csi pump on my car

TXFORMULA

ive got a meziere hd and ill never go back to stock. you'll notice a difference. ive heard an underdrive pulley isnt worth it unless you have an electric waterpump

19mike84

i installed an ewp and pullies at the same time, i know both together made a good difference

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Underdrive pullies are not particularly worthwhile. On engines where the waterpump is belt driven they make a nice difference because the pump is underdriven and the waterpump is power hungry.

Far as TXFORMULA's statement about pullies not being worthwhile unless you have an electric, well he is thoroughly confused.
Actually with a stock cammed car and stock idle I would worry about the effects of UD pulley and the added alternator load, could have charging issues leading you to OD the alternator.
I mentioned stock cammed specifically because a larger cam usually gets a higher idle which would help avoid charging issues.

Personally I think the only way UD pullies are useful is if the car sees sustained hiogh rpm use and you are overheating the PS or the like. I also think that if you are going to do it you would be better off to put a new smaller diameter damper which would likely be ligher and the weight will be closer to center which would mean it has more potential for power gains.

lt1-xjs

I have the ASP 945103 pulley set with the integrated balancer, much smaller than the original and weighs much less. It has 23% under crank, 15 % over alt. They have been on almost 5 years with no issues and my battery is over 7 yr. old. I also have a CSI now CSR water pump. I am on my second one. My first one lasted 4 yrs. and 3 mos., roughly 26,000 miles, again no issues here. When it did fail, it made noise for a couple weeks before it even blew a fuse and I was never stranded. From experience I can tell you will notice a difference with the two mods. Sadly I didn't dyno that time. If you are not planning to put a cam in for a while, skip the 1.6's and go 1.7 scorpions. That was my last up grade. 1.7's gave me 10 rwhp & 6 lb tq over 1.6's.

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all the input guys. i will definitely be checking out the 1.7 rockers. i dont plan on a cam anytime soon. i will look into the asp pulley set and meziere hd ewp since it seems to do well. the only thing about the csi, csr or whatever its called is i probably drive that much in a year and a half. i need a good tune as well

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

btw if you are gonna do rockers i would also suggest doing springs at the same time...stock springs aren't made to handle more than stock and with the added lift from the 1.7s I'd get some better springs

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

yea i know. stock springs can barely handle the factory stuff.

LTBANDIT

iTrader: (3)

I DO have a set of asp pulleys that i would sell you cheap... the crank pulley has some dings on it from smacking the hub on... it is the 23% underdrive kit from asp i can even give you the belt (it might work for you)... 65 shipped which is half of what i paid for it...

consist of crank poulley, alt. pulley and belt... the kit from asp does not include the belt...

i also have a used lt4 spring kit that i would sell you for an extra 25 dollars... kit consist of lt4 springs reatainer, seats and locks... i used this kit for 1800 miles and they worked fine with my 1.6 rr's but i'm putting a cam in and i went with the 10308-1 spring kit from crane...

m6ttop

iTrader: (18)

now get subframes!!!

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

For the record here is my suspension list.

Springs:

- Sam Strano lowering springs

- Every mount related to springs / suspension when doing the springs and shocks was replaced with MOOG and OEM parts where and when applicable

- New poly bumper stops

- 99 thru 04 cobra rear spring isolators (gives more of a drop)



Rear Suspension:

- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable panhard bar

- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable LCA’s

- Bolt on LCA relocation brackets (now welded on)

- Powdered Coated OEM upper panhard bar

- UMI upgraded rear sway bar

- UMI billet rear sway bar mounts

- UMI rear sway bar axle mounts

- Energy suspension rear sway shorter end links

- UMI full length adjustable torque arm

- UMI transmission mount relocation cross memeber (Automatic Transmission) takes Torque Arm off tailshaft

- Bilstein HD shocks

- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)



Front Suspension:

- UMI upgraded front sway bar

- UMI billet front sway bar mounts

- Blaine Fab powder coated front heavy duty sway bar mounts

- Energy Suspension front sway links (need to go shorter link)

- Bilstein HD shocks

- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)

- UMI 2 point Strut Tower Brace

- UMI 2 point Weld In Subframe Connectors

- Sam Strano Brake Master Cylinder brace

- UMI tunnel mounted drive shaft safety loop

- UMI front lower a-arms delrin / rod (single adjustable tubular)

- UMI front upper a-arm mounts non-adjustable delrin

- UMI road race k-member

- UMI Delrin steering member inserts.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I agree with underdrive pulleys, especially the alternator one being pretty useless. The only reason I have one for the crank is it was free. I also decided since the motor is front internally balanced and rear externally, and that my motor is sacrificial, I don’t run a harmonic balancer, only an aluminum underdrive on the front. It cuts rotating weight more than cuts losses on the belt accessories. The alternator spinning slower has never been an issue. An underdrive plus a balancer I bet does nothing measureable in the 1/4.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Solid 10 year old thread bump guys

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

The alternator issue depends on what kind of driving is done. I had one on mine when they first came out. No O/D pulley and a lot of stop/go traffic and short trips. Battery was dead w/in 6 months. Put O/D pulley on and never had an issue after that. Lots of stop/go, and from what I recall, especially automatics may have charging issues if no alt. O/D pulley is used.

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

I think it's because if you scroll to the bottom of his thread it shows this as a related thread if you go to far you end up posting in a unrelated thread. I almost did it in mine the other day.

Fast355

I know this is an ancient post but I have a 25% crank underdrive pulley on my 350 Vortec in a power hungry Express conversion van. The 4L85E has a 2,800 stall converter in it. Because of the loose converter and small cam I raised the idle speed to 750. At 750 rpm idle the alternator and compressor still turn faster than stock at idle. Stock idle was 525. The 750 idle at 25% overdrive turns the accessories the same RPM as the stock pulley would at 562.5 rpm. I can sit there in bumper to bumper traffic, voltmeter showing straight up 14 volts and that is with both a/c blowers on high. With the a/c fans on high, all the interior lighting and entertainment on, the headlights on (4 high mod) it was charging 14.2 on my Fluke. The pulley was very noticeable in my application. Although it is turning a water pump and clutch fan. It was a 15 ft/lbs gain at the wheels across most of the RPM band. I had to adjust the torque values in the accessory and a/c tables in the 0411 so that it would idle correctly without surging. When the compressor cycles on with the underdrive pulley it loads the engine much less than the factory pulley and it wanted to surge near idle. I multiplied the torque tables by 0.75 and it has been perfect since. Also even in the middle of a Texas summer on a 105*F day the a/c will still freeze you out. Blows ~40°F at idle and 35°F going down the road. With the underdrive pulley I also changed the a/c compressor cut-out speed from 4,500 to 6,000 rpm.