How can I get about 400 H.P. out of a TPI 350
08-22-2008, 11:26 PM
#1
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How can I get about 400 H.P. out of a TPI 350 This is more third gen related but I figured I would get some answers here.
I'm currently workin on 355 TPI set up for my full resto 1985 WS6 T/A M5.
What I really want is to crank out about 380-400 H.P. just so I can beat my arch enemies 351 Windsor F***stang. But I don't know the best way to go for heads,cam,pistons.
So far what I have is a L98 4 bolt roller cam 350. I know I will bore .30 over with stock 3.48" stroke Crank, Standard 5.7" rods, but I don't know If I want to supercharge or leave Naturally Aspirated. I am willing to spend plenty of money on this because it's a full resto in progress and I want a good powerplant to back up my Cosmetics.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm currently workin on 355 TPI set up for my full resto 1985 WS6 T/A M5.
What I really want is to crank out about 380-400 H.P. just so I can beat my arch enemies 351 Windsor F***stang. But I don't know the best way to go for heads,cam,pistons.
So far what I have is a L98 4 bolt roller cam 350. I know I will bore .30 over with stock 3.48" stroke Crank, Standard 5.7" rods, but I don't know If I want to supercharge or leave Naturally Aspirated. I am willing to spend plenty of money on this because it's a full resto in progress and I want a good powerplant to back up my Cosmetics.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
08-23-2008, 08:07 AM
#5
You will probably get a lot more responses in the TPI section then the LT1.
That being said, if you are willing to spend the cash why do you say wou will go 355? You can go forged stroker and spray it and pass your modest goal by a LOT.
Also, what does the stang run? Just having "400hp" does not mean you will be faster then him, and can still lose at the track...
That being said, if you are willing to spend the cash why do you say wou will go 355? You can go forged stroker and spray it and pass your modest goal by a LOT.
Also, what does the stang run? Just having "400hp" does not mean you will be faster then him, and can still lose at the track...
08-23-2008, 09:20 AM
#6
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You will probably get a lot more responses in the TPI section then the LT1.
That being said, if you are willing to spend the cash why do you say wou will go 355? You can go forged stroker and spray it and pass your modest goal by a LOT.
Also, what does the stang run? Just having "400hp" does not mean you will be faster then him, and can still lose at the track...
That being said, if you are willing to spend the cash why do you say wou will go 355? You can go forged stroker and spray it and pass your modest goal by a LOT.
Also, what does the stang run? Just having "400hp" does not mean you will be faster then him, and can still lose at the track...
The stang is a 91 LX with a stock bore 351 with ported heads, cammed, carbed, 5 speed, he says he has 380 H.P. but I beg to differ cuz my uncle beat him with his stock with ram air 94 Z28.
All I need are guidelines really.
08-23-2008, 12:06 PM
#7
I was considering the 355 because I heard 383 strokers are too torquey for the third gen body, but I think thats just a rumor.
The stang is a 91 LX with a stock bore 351 with ported heads, cammed, carbed, 5 speed, he says he has 380 H.P. but I beg to differ cuz my uncle beat him with his stock with ram air 94 Z28.
All I need are guidelines really.
The stang is a 91 LX with a stock bore 351 with ported heads, cammed, carbed, 5 speed, he says he has 380 H.P. but I beg to differ cuz my uncle beat him with his stock with ram air 94 Z28.
All I need are guidelines really.
first thing ti do is DITCH THE TPI,longtube runners do not make HP easily.
Tpis mini-ram,Holley stealthram,converted Lt1 intake is a great upgrade
your motor is just like your relationship,"if you don't have good head it ain't gonna work!" don't bother with stock GM cast iron heads portwork on these heads are a HUGE waste of time,alum vette heads are a great inexpensive start or you can go directly to the AFRs.....
cam choices that have been proven for that power level
TPIS zz9x,comp cams236/244 ,best bet is to contact Advanced Induction or LE portworks for up to date cam profiles....
1.6 rr w/7/16 or shaft mount rockers....CHROMOLY pushrods.
58mm tb,30-36lb inj,crane afpr or aeromotive adj.reg.,255 lph, 1-3/4 hedders are really the best way however choices are limited to SLP shorties and hooker longtubes....longtubes preferred and add a heated o2 sensor.
underdrive pulleys,aluminum water pump etc....3600stall and a killer 700r4,or get a T56.....
the biggest thing is TUNNING,TUNNING,TUNNING AND MORE TUNNING,DATA LOGGING ETC.
Now lets talk about the rear end area........Moser 12-bolt 3.73-4.10,Quality TQ arm BMR,MADMAN,SPOHN..........
Jegs has the BEST subframe connectors in my opinion for a 3rd gen!
This is similar to a set up i had and mid 11s were no problem N/A never got to make a N2O pass
rearend
......... Trending Topics
08-23-2008, 12:22 PM
#8
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Yea, I recommend the Stealth Ram or the Miniram. Both won't be cheap, but will help loads to make HP. Of course, you'll lose TQ, but that might be a blessing to help you hook up.
A nice cam, anyone know how the cc503 does in the TPIs, and a tune will be a great help. If you have the money, get a Dyno Tune, as it'll dial in much much better than a mail order. Run a wide-band O2 and that'll help the tuner that much more.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
A nice cam, anyone know how the cc503 does in the TPIs, and a tune will be a great help. If you have the money, get a Dyno Tune, as it'll dial in much much better than a mail order. Run a wide-band O2 and that'll help the tuner that much more.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
08-23-2008, 12:47 PM
#9
A nice cam, anyone know how the cc503 does in the TPIs, and a tune will be a great help. If you have the money, get a Dyno Tune, as it'll dial in much much better than a mail order. Run a wide-band O2 and that'll help the tuner that much more.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
When i left the 3rd gen goodies(not really by choice)i was helping my buddy get his 88 iroc built here is the run down
zz4 w/forged pistons,stock zz4 heads,stock rockers
,cc503,supperram,30lb inj.,58mm tb,crappy edelbrock hedders,pulley kit,SD conversion custom chip from "PERFORMANCE RESOURCE" aussie9 bolt w/3.45s,T-56 conv.,he ran a 13.00 on 20"IROC wheels
08-24-2008, 03:39 AM
#13
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if you decide to go with a carb i have a holley double pumper. performer rpm intake. dart heads, rpm cam. and hei that is good for over 400hp at the crank. willing to get rid of all together for CHEAP!
What's the length on LS1 intake runners anyhow?
08-24-2008, 05:37 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Definately rumor! LPE was doing 383s,406s in 3rd gens for a longtime!
first thing ti do is DITCH THE TPI,longtube runners do not make HP easily.
Tpis mini-ram,Holley stealthram,converted Lt1 intake is a great upgrade
your motor is just like your relationship,"if you don't have good head it ain't gonna work!" don't bother with stock GM cast iron heads portwork on these heads are a HUGE waste of time,alum vette heads are a great inexpensive start or you can go directly to the AFRs.....
cam choices that have been proven for that power level
TPIS zz9x,comp cams236/244 ,best bet is to contact Advanced Induction or LE portworks for up to date cam profiles....
1.6 rr w/7/16 or shaft mount rockers....CHROMOLY pushrods.
58mm tb,30-36lb inj,crane afpr or aeromotive adj.reg.,255 lph, 1-3/4 hedders are really the best way however choices are limited to SLP shorties and hooker longtubes....longtubes preferred and add a heated o2 sensor.
underdrive pulleys,aluminum water pump etc....3600stall and a killer 700r4,or get a T56.....
the biggest thing is TUNNING,TUNNING,TUNNING AND MORE TUNNING,DATA LOGGING ETC.
Now lets talk about the rear end area........Moser 12-bolt 3.73-4.10,Quality TQ arm BMR,MADMAN,SPOHN..........
Jegs has the BEST subframe connectors in my opinion for a 3rd gen!
This is similar to a set up i had and mid 11s were no problem N/A never got to make a N2O passrearend.........
first thing ti do is DITCH THE TPI,longtube runners do not make HP easily.
Tpis mini-ram,Holley stealthram,converted Lt1 intake is a great upgrade
your motor is just like your relationship,"if you don't have good head it ain't gonna work!" don't bother with stock GM cast iron heads portwork on these heads are a HUGE waste of time,alum vette heads are a great inexpensive start or you can go directly to the AFRs.....
cam choices that have been proven for that power level
TPIS zz9x,comp cams236/244 ,best bet is to contact Advanced Induction or LE portworks for up to date cam profiles....
1.6 rr w/7/16 or shaft mount rockers....CHROMOLY pushrods.
58mm tb,30-36lb inj,crane afpr or aeromotive adj.reg.,255 lph, 1-3/4 hedders are really the best way however choices are limited to SLP shorties and hooker longtubes....longtubes preferred and add a heated o2 sensor.
underdrive pulleys,aluminum water pump etc....3600stall and a killer 700r4,or get a T56.....
the biggest thing is TUNNING,TUNNING,TUNNING AND MORE TUNNING,DATA LOGGING ETC.
Now lets talk about the rear end area........Moser 12-bolt 3.73-4.10,Quality TQ arm BMR,MADMAN,SPOHN..........
Jegs has the BEST subframe connectors in my opinion for a 3rd gen!
This is similar to a set up i had and mid 11s were no problem N/A never got to make a N2O pass
rearend.........Thanks a lot for all this info, this will help me find a good combo, I have looked at the TPIS stuff including that LT1 style intake and was considering it.
08-24-2008, 05:42 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Yea, I recommend the Stealth Ram or the Miniram. Both won't be cheap, but will help loads to make HP. Of course, you'll lose TQ, but that might be a blessing to help you hook up.
A nice cam, anyone know how the cc503 does in the TPIs, and a tune will be a great help. If you have the money, get a Dyno Tune, as it'll dial in much much better than a mail order. Run a wide-band O2 and that'll help the tuner that much more.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
A nice cam, anyone know how the cc503 does in the TPIs, and a tune will be a great help. If you have the money, get a Dyno Tune, as it'll dial in much much better than a mail order. Run a wide-band O2 and that'll help the tuner that much more.
I don't think the price of a 383 is much over what a 355 is anyways, so might as well spring for one.
I don't know which are better for TPI, but I liked my speed density one better, mainly because it ditched the 9th cold-start injector and the ecm was updated a bit also I believe.
I might consider the 383, I have always heard that speed density was better, unfortunately I have the Mass Air Flow.
I see you also have a 93 Formula, I have a Green 93 Formula M6 all stock for now (daily driver)
08-24-2008, 07:48 PM
#19
The speed density set up makes more power(not much more)however when you do BIG mods it is not as friendly and accepting quite like the mas air system..
As far as the 355 vs 383 thing:
355 requires a bit more RPM and does not make big TQ numbers.
383 will make a bunch of TQ and a small amount of added HP at a lower RPM.
PERSONALLY, i say build a 383,nice set of ported heads LPE 219/219....cc503...comp 227/233...all of these cams are nice and make great power..
As far as the 355 vs 383 thing:
355 requires a bit more RPM and does not make big TQ numbers.
383 will make a bunch of TQ and a small amount of added HP at a lower RPM.
PERSONALLY, i say build a 383,nice set of ported heads LPE 219/219....cc503...comp 227/233...all of these cams are nice and make great power..
08-24-2008, 08:05 PM
#20
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I think it's above 500hp when the MAF setups start working better though isn't it? And are we sure that the older MAF systems still have an advantage over the SD?