Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

I should be heading to the track later today hopefully, so tell me what you think I'll run

6-speed
355 w/ GM 847 cam, about 10.85:1 compression
heads are 99% stock, they were very lightly hand ported but not gasket matched or anything
bolt ons (exhaust, cold air)
MadZ mail order tune
4.10s
Nitto drag radials on a pair of salad shooters

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

idk the specs of that cam but ima guess 13.0-12.8 let us no how it runs

IrocZ

iTrader: (2)

What headers are on it?

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

coated Pacesetter LTs

The rest of the exhaust is 2.5" true duals over the axle with 2 sweet thunder mufflers.

TABBED 5.3

iTrader: (1)

12.2-12.4

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

A few more questions:
what injectors
1.5,1.6 rockers
throttle body
tires
altitude,temp,humidity,barometric pressure.

i would say low 12s w/traction depending on driving skillzz

grn95t/a

iTrader: (10)

12.50's

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

30lb injectors
1.6 rockers
stock TB
Nitto DRs, 245/50/16 on the salad shooters
I think the track is about 750ft ASL, and it should be fairly dry and in the 60's tonight

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

12.6 at 112

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Exactly my guess. It depends on what 60's you are able to pull but I will guess 12.40-12.80 throughout your runs.

This is given you can pull a 2.00 60 ft.

Traps should be 112-116mph...

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

12.50's is my guess too And I think traps will be about 114, maybe 115 area. I should be able to get at least 2.0 60's out of it

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

If you leave the line around 2,500rpm and do not spin a 2.0x is going to happen. Be carefull going into the upper 3,000rpm range these rear ends don't like it with an m6. I've broken 3 already...

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm REALLY hoping I won't grenade the rear end... I'll keep it to 2500 or so and cross my fingers...

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

I think you will be ok at that RPM. Just don't straight drop the clutch try to ride it out of the hole.

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

This clutch tends towards the "on or off" variety, lol

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Which one are you running? I know what you mean though. It may take a pass or two but the best way to preserve these things is after you second stage bring the clutch up to the point to where it is damn near about to roll forward but don't go to far or you will redlight. That will put you at the friction point and allow you to ride it out. It's kind of tricky at first though...

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

It's a Powergrip HD

Someone else told me to get the clutch just up to its initial grab point and hold my foot on the brakes as well (like you would when starting a brake stand), because that well take out any driveline "slack" and make the launch less harsh. It makes sense to me but it seems like it would be easy to screw up.

k0261886

iTrader: (5)

Unless you get ur dick down there to hold the brake pedal that is going to be hard to do, lol.

But in all reality, maybe use the E-brake?

C_Rules

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to say 12.70s. But i hope you run quicker.

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

haha, well I don't have one so that wouldn't be an option anyway.

But it's very possibly to do, I do it all the time. You just use your right foot, heel on the brake, toes on the gas - clutch in with the left foot, then punch the gas with your toes, drop the clutch, and then you can move your left to the brake and the right to the gas.

Silly automatic drivers

edit: That would be for doing a brakestand, but the same technique applies to holding the car still with the clutch out slightly while being staged