rear end out of a LS1??
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rear end out of a LS1??
sooooo my rear end is done and unfortunatley I can't justify going the 12 bolt route yet so i'm thinking about buying a 10 bolt out of a Ls1 any body have any thoughts or reasons on why that might not bolt up or work?
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This has been beaten to death, and I've posted on almost every thread in the past year on it. It bolts up just fine, rear brakes are different as in they are .3" bigger and the ebrake system is vastly different. If you want to keep the ebrake, get the cabling from the junction (on the arch of the drive shaft tunnel) back to the brakes themselves. They have 4wheel ABS as apposed to our 3 wheel (2 front center diff read). 99+ has Torsen posi, as apposed to 98-previous Auburn made clutch style.
Might as well get one from an M6 if you have an A4, free upgrade to 3.42s That's what I did. Overdrive has more pep on the highways too, it's oddly noticeable.
Might as well get one from an M6 if you have an A4, free upgrade to 3.42s That's what I did. Overdrive has more pep on the highways too, it's oddly noticeable.
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This has been beaten to death, and I've posted on almost every thread in the past year on it. It bolts up just fine, rear brakes are different as in they are .3" bigger and the ebrake system is vastly different. If you want to keep the ebrake, get the cabling from the junction (on the arch of the drive shaft tunnel) back to the brakes themselves. They have 4wheel ABS as apposed to our 3 wheel (2 front center diff read). 99+ has Torsen posi, as apposed to 98-previous Auburn made clutch style.
Might as well get one from an M6 if you have an A4, free upgrade to 3.42s That's what I did. Overdrive has more pep on the highways too, it's oddly noticeable.
Might as well get one from an M6 if you have an A4, free upgrade to 3.42s That's what I did. Overdrive has more pep on the highways too, it's oddly noticeable.
I may be swapping my 96 m6 rear with a 02 m6 rear tomorrow. still unclear about the ebrake situation. how exactly can i keep it?
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You can keep your Brakes without a problem..just have to do a little work..
Pull the Tires, unbolt the Calipers, remove the Rotors, un-bolt the Brakes completely off of the Caliper Brackets and hang em up out of the way.
Then pull the Axles out, and un-bolt the Caliper Brackets.
Take the Axles out of the new Rear and do the same thing to switch out the Caliper Brackets. Then put it back together.
Pull the Tires, unbolt the Calipers, remove the Rotors, un-bolt the Brakes completely off of the Caliper Brackets and hang em up out of the way.
Then pull the Axles out, and un-bolt the Caliper Brackets.
Take the Axles out of the new Rear and do the same thing to switch out the Caliper Brackets. Then put it back together.
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You can keep your Brakes without a problem..just have to do a little work..
Pull the Tires, unbolt the Calipers, remove the Rotors, un-bolt the Brakes completely off of the Caliper Brackets and hang em up out of the way.
Then pull the Axles out, and un-bolt the Caliper Brackets.
Take the Axles out of the new Rear and do the same thing to switch out the Caliper Brackets. Then put it back together.
Pull the Tires, unbolt the Calipers, remove the Rotors, un-bolt the Brakes completely off of the Caliper Brackets and hang em up out of the way.
Then pull the Axles out, and un-bolt the Caliper Brackets.
Take the Axles out of the new Rear and do the same thing to switch out the Caliper Brackets. Then put it back together.
When we swapped my rears out, we did that to my friend's S10 blazer since they're the same rears basically. Swapped in my Posi and Disc setup.
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I have a ls1 rear sitting in my yard if youd like I can go take some pics of the lines on it when I get home from work , My car is at the shop right now so I wouldnt be able to compare
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the fittings are different....ur local parts store will have fittings and lines....my buddies dad had a flaring tool so i just made new solid lines to connect them....i ran into a big prob lem with rust and stuff breakin and not wantin to come out...thats with pb blaster.....