Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

I tried searching and couldn't find a direct answer on how to identify the later model ('01, '02) clutch hydraulics. I ask this because I bought a '99 Camaro recently that supposedly has an LS6 clutch/hydraulics w/ drill mod and the pedal is still on the floor after a 3rd gear WOT run (sometimes after 2nd gear, too).

Is it possibly not related to the hydraulics and possibly the clutch itself (it has 15k+ miles on it)?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


- Dustin

Black99T\A

iTrader: (17)

I dont know if you can identify the new hydrolics, im sure someone can chime in and tell you. I do know that if the hydrolics were bought recently then they are the upgraded style, I dont think they ever sell the older versions anymore.

You clutch doesnt have very many miles on it at all sounds like the hydro's. Does it do it all the time or just after youve run the car a while and got it hot? I see that you have longtubes on the car. its possible that the fluid is boiling and making your pedal stick to the floor. if so you can wrap your master line with some header tape to help the problem. if that doesnt help id say you have more complicated hydrolic problems.

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

No one else?


- Dustin

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

What color is your clutch fluid?

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

From what I can tell it's still fairly clear?


- Dustin

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

Okay well, it's been confirmed that the clutch master has been replaced w/ the updated hydraulics with drill modification.

I guess that only leaves the clutch and slave.


- Dustin

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

The high RPM sticking to the floor usually is the pressure plate.
Get a decent clutch in there & all will be well.

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, sir. It appears that most of the folks on here really like the CF DFX setup.

So, the '99 slave will be okay to reuse?


- Dustin

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

I spoke w/ the previous owner and he mentioned that after he installed the clutch master and bled the system, the pedal never stuck.

Is it possible there could still be air in the hydraulics system? The clutch doesn't slip one bit.

Thank you!


- Dustin

Snapps

iTrader: (39)

Funny I have heard guy's with the Textrailia, spec, my self(Ram) all have had the same problem as the guy who wrote this thread. I have the same problem, And I have replaced everything but the actual line going from the master to the slave. I put a Ls7 clutch kit in 2 yrs ago. After a year of driving on it the clutch pedal started sticking to the floor. So all at once I had a new master, slave, and clutch kit installed (by dealer) and still I have the pedal sticking down closer to the floor.

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

I may be shooting blanks here, but, I just dropped the car off at the dealer to have them bleed the hydraulics system. Eh, screw it, at least I'll have some closure.

Ugh, I wish accessing the slave cylinder was easy (I came from the 5.0L Mustang world where I could swap a clutch in less than an hour). Fawk.

The upside is the car drives pretty nice.



- Dustin

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Get a good aftermarket clutch and make sure it's installed and bled properly. Some aftermarket clutches seem to require an adjustable master cylinder, as well, to really get them working correctly, but you won't know until you get the new clutch in.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

The problem usually is the clutch. Thats why I say usually.....
At high RPM's the centrifical force on the pressure plate can be great enough to cause it to hang up.
Add machined flywheels, shims, air who knows what the problem can be aggrivated easily.
The concentric slave set ups are just a PITA sometimes....

A good performance clutch & good properly bleed hydraulic's are a must.
The proper clerance/distance of the slave in relation to the pressure plate also an important factor. An adjustable master properly adjusted to remove free play from the pedal a big help as well.
Maintanece in the form of peroidic flushing also very important IMO.
keepint the line insulated also a good idea to keep from heating the fluid as well.
There are many issues to deal with and address here.
Such is the world of LSx hydraulic clutch systems.

Snapps

iTrader: (39)

Well the only thing I can see now what could be related is the fact I did reuse my Ram Fly wheel and yes it was machined (once) still within spec. I guess I still don't understand why a machined fly wheel will make that an issue maybe you could shed some light on that for me wrencher.. Thx

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

I suppose I can look at this way: At least I won't be hot-rodding the car around town and putting myself, or, others in danger.



- Dustin

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Sounds to me like the pressure plate isn't holding up to your power level. Exactly what "TSP goodies" do you have on your car?

Snapps

iTrader: (39)

TSP 408 SB, Afr 225's, 92/92 setup, TSP behemoth bump stick, and some measly 1 3/4 LT's, ORY. Nothing to radical

Just to add I did give as much detail to the person taking the order from "Ram" basically weight of car est hp, etc. Either way I am about ready to yank out the m6 and go A4 (possibly this winter) if I can find the right place to do the work which I do have one local shop in mind but nothing set in stone.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

A machined flywheel will move the pressure plate fingers away from the slave.
It increases the throw distance required to release it by the slave.
It's not a alot I know, but it does change the geometry.
Thats why there are shims out there.
Another thing that helps alot IMO is an adjustable master. If you can get the pedal to the right spot it keeps release issue at bay.
There is also that possibility that your pressure plate is at fault, just because it's new/performance doesn't mean it is good.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

did having it bled end up helping at all? i am dealing with the same problem

Dustin AZ

iTrader: (1)

Negative, the dealer didn't get to my car in time before they closed, so I just picked it up and left.


- Dustin