Another Tick Master Cylinder Success Story
11-02-2008, 09:19 AM
#1
Another Tick Master Cylinder Success Story Well...in short, I've had a Tick Performance master cylinder in my possession since they first started shipping (they started shipping on a Friday, I had mine the following Monday), but due to my wedding and honeymoon, I've only recently gotten around to installing this wonderful device.
The story starts back when I first installed my RPS stage III clutch. My part throttle shifts were always smooth, but I'll be damned if I didn't have a problem on the WOT 2-3 upshift every single time. It would always grind and never go in...very frustrating to say the least. At some point, I read about doing the clutch test (car on a flat surface, no brakes, car in 1st gear with clutch pedal depressed, and rev the car - if it starts rolling, your clutch is dragging). Sure enough...it was dragging.
My options at the time were a McLeod adjustable master cylinder (which they were still in the process of redesigning, and their old design was a leaky, unreliable **** from what I've heard/read), or the Ram adjustable master, which is nothing more than a stocker with a threaded rod welded in place. I decided to go with the Ram, but then I got to thinking:
The master cylinder has an internal stop...what good is the adjustment if it can only physically push so much fluid before hitting the stop?
So...I did what any normal person with OCD would do...I took that bitch apart and cut down the stop so it was about half as long as it used to be. That got me about an extra 1/2" or so of travel, so I installed it and proceeded to adjust it. I ended up putting the pedal all the way at the top of its travel, and then and only then would the clutch not drag. This made for a very uncomfortable clutch pedal since it was so much higher than the brake pedal...wasn't digging that choice.
Fast forward a few months, and I caught wind of Tick's new development to fix this problem. Their solution? Make an adapter so that you can fit a Tilton master cylinder on an F-body. Larger bore = more fluid pushed for a given amount of pedal travel. I expected a heavier pedal due to the larger bore, but I needed to push more fluid per length of pedal travel...I opted to push more fluid.
The result? The clutch pedal is heavier, but after doing all of the final adjustments, I finally have a clutch the doesn't drag with a clutch pedal that is only a little higher than the brake pedal. So far I've only powershifted the 1-2 shift, but it went in with no issues...I've done some quick 2-3 shifts, but haven't powershifted that one yet...still, no problems getting it into gear on high RPM shifts.
FINALLY!
Some install tips:
1. It is a bitch to get into place with the huge wiring harness that runs through that area. Just keep pushing and twisting it a few different directions...trust me, it will fit without moving anything. Removing the driver's side coil packs will give you more room to work, and is highly recommended.
2. Do yourself a favor and bench bleed it before you install. I like to use a Motive Power Bleeder to get the air bubbles out of my hydraulic systems, but it didn't get the job done after the bone dry cylinder was installed. So out it came, bench bled it, put it back in, bled it again, and voila...it worked. I have a bleeder extension that runs back up to the master cylinder reservoir, so gravity bleeding isn't the most convenient for me.
3. Do yourself a favor and get married so you have an extra set of smaller hands available to hold the master cylinder while you put the bolts in inside the cabin. You'll thank yourself later.
4. After install, I wanted to make sure I could adjust the pedal all the way out if necessary. I knew it wouldn't be required, but I wanted to be able to just in case. So away I went lengthening it when the rod end came out of the aluminum turnbuckle completely before the pedal was all the way out. I played with it some more, and bingo...I could get full travel out of it without either threaded end coming out of the turnbuckle.
As I've always suspected, you don't get something for nothing in this world. Expect a heavier clutch pedal...larger bore = heavier pedal, plain and simple. It isn't much heavier, but I did notice it, so expect it. Not a problem in my book, and I'm more than happy to make that compromise.
Also, keep in mind that with the F-body, it will not seal to the firewall like the stocker, so you'll now get to hear some extra engine noise coming through into the passenger cabin. They are working on a fix for this, so I'll sit tight...it isn't horrible, and you don't notice it with the windows down, but with the windows up, the extra noise is definitely noticeable.
All in all, it is a great product (Tilton = High Quality Stuff), I'd highly recommend it to anyone with a dragging clutch, and I can take comfort in the fact that I'll never need to buy another adjustable master cylinder ever again. Sweet
The story starts back when I first installed my RPS stage III clutch. My part throttle shifts were always smooth, but I'll be damned if I didn't have a problem on the WOT 2-3 upshift every single time. It would always grind and never go in...very frustrating to say the least. At some point, I read about doing the clutch test (car on a flat surface, no brakes, car in 1st gear with clutch pedal depressed, and rev the car - if it starts rolling, your clutch is dragging). Sure enough...it was dragging.
My options at the time were a McLeod adjustable master cylinder (which they were still in the process of redesigning, and their old design was a leaky, unreliable **** from what I've heard/read), or the Ram adjustable master, which is nothing more than a stocker with a threaded rod welded in place. I decided to go with the Ram, but then I got to thinking:
The master cylinder has an internal stop...what good is the adjustment if it can only physically push so much fluid before hitting the stop?
So...I did what any normal person with OCD would do...I took that bitch apart and cut down the stop so it was about half as long as it used to be. That got me about an extra 1/2" or so of travel, so I installed it and proceeded to adjust it. I ended up putting the pedal all the way at the top of its travel, and then and only then would the clutch not drag. This made for a very uncomfortable clutch pedal since it was so much higher than the brake pedal...wasn't digging that choice.
Fast forward a few months, and I caught wind of Tick's new development to fix this problem. Their solution? Make an adapter so that you can fit a Tilton master cylinder on an F-body. Larger bore = more fluid pushed for a given amount of pedal travel. I expected a heavier pedal due to the larger bore, but I needed to push more fluid per length of pedal travel...I opted to push more fluid.
The result? The clutch pedal is heavier, but after doing all of the final adjustments, I finally have a clutch the doesn't drag with a clutch pedal that is only a little higher than the brake pedal. So far I've only powershifted the 1-2 shift, but it went in with no issues...I've done some quick 2-3 shifts, but haven't powershifted that one yet...still, no problems getting it into gear on high RPM shifts.
FINALLY!
Some install tips:
1. It is a bitch to get into place with the huge wiring harness that runs through that area. Just keep pushing and twisting it a few different directions...trust me, it will fit without moving anything. Removing the driver's side coil packs will give you more room to work, and is highly recommended.
2. Do yourself a favor and bench bleed it before you install. I like to use a Motive Power Bleeder to get the air bubbles out of my hydraulic systems, but it didn't get the job done after the bone dry cylinder was installed. So out it came, bench bled it, put it back in, bled it again, and voila...it worked. I have a bleeder extension that runs back up to the master cylinder reservoir, so gravity bleeding isn't the most convenient for me.
3. Do yourself a favor and get married so you have an extra set of smaller hands available to hold the master cylinder while you put the bolts in inside the cabin. You'll thank yourself later.
4. After install, I wanted to make sure I could adjust the pedal all the way out if necessary. I knew it wouldn't be required, but I wanted to be able to just in case. So away I went lengthening it when the rod end came out of the aluminum turnbuckle completely before the pedal was all the way out. I played with it some more, and bingo...I could get full travel out of it without either threaded end coming out of the turnbuckle.
As I've always suspected, you don't get something for nothing in this world. Expect a heavier clutch pedal...larger bore = heavier pedal, plain and simple. It isn't much heavier, but I did notice it, so expect it. Not a problem in my book, and I'm more than happy to make that compromise.
Also, keep in mind that with the F-body, it will not seal to the firewall like the stocker, so you'll now get to hear some extra engine noise coming through into the passenger cabin. They are working on a fix for this, so I'll sit tight...it isn't horrible, and you don't notice it with the windows down, but with the windows up, the extra noise is definitely noticeable.
All in all, it is a great product (Tilton = High Quality Stuff), I'd highly recommend it to anyone with a dragging clutch, and I can take comfort in the fact that I'll never need to buy another adjustable master cylinder ever again. Sweet
11-02-2008, 10:10 PM
#4
I finally grew a sack and tried my hand at powershifting the 2-3 shift...it went straight into gear the first time, no bullshit. I'm really impressed...I always thought I was just a bad driver. Granted, I still am a bad driver, but I can at least powershift any gear I want now.
Laying down rubber on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts is a good feeling
Laying down rubber on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts is a good feeling
11-03-2008, 08:22 AM
#5
First off, congrats on the marriage! Hope you had fun on the honeymoon... 
Second, glad to hear the MC is working out for you. I've had good luck lately with my RAM adjustable, but if anything goes wrong with it in the future, I'm gonna have to man up and give the Tick master a shot.
Second, glad to hear the MC is working out for you. I've had good luck lately with my RAM adjustable, but if anything goes wrong with it in the future, I'm gonna have to man up and give the Tick master a shot.
11-03-2008, 10:48 AM
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice to hear this story, hopefully many have success with this MC because we need some good hydros for these cars, the stock systems suck. When i get a new motor I will probably try this MC out.
Trending Topics
11-03-2008, 11:00 AM
#9
I know it isn't the cheapest thing in the world, but I have full confidence in my clutch hydraulics for the first time since I owned the car. I went through three transmissions under warranty due to grinding into 3rd under heavy throttle shifts, and the 4th transmission was on my dime. I was heading back down the same road with this transmission until I fixed the problem...I wanted to blame it on the tranny, but it was the clutch not fully disengaging.
IMO, you either pay up front for this master cylinder, or you pay down the road for a new transmission if your hydraulics aren't up to the task as is. While I don't intend to make powershifting a habit of any sort, it is nice to know that I can if I so choose.
IMO, you either pay up front for this master cylinder, or you pay down the road for a new transmission if your hydraulics aren't up to the task as is. While I don't intend to make powershifting a habit of any sort, it is nice to know that I can if I so choose.
11-03-2008, 11:05 PM
#10
TECH Resident
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know it isn't the cheapest thing in the world, but I have full confidence in my clutch hydraulics for the first time since I owned the car. I went through three transmissions under warranty due to grinding into 3rd under heavy throttle shifts, and the 4th transmission was on my dime. I was heading back down the same road with this transmission until I fixed the problem...I wanted to blame it on the tranny, but it was the clutch not fully disengaging.
IMO, you either pay up front for this master cylinder, or you pay down the road for a new transmission if your hydraulics aren't up to the task as is. While I don't intend to make powershifting a habit of any sort, it is nice to know that I can if I so choose.
IMO, you either pay up front for this master cylinder, or you pay down the road for a new transmission if your hydraulics aren't up to the task as is. While I don't intend to make powershifting a habit of any sort, it is nice to know that I can if I so choose.
11-04-2008, 06:25 AM
#12
****....i think im in the same boat as you right now. my tranny grinds into 3rd gear under heavy throttle and sometimes when i daily drive it. So when you say "i fixed the problem" you mean the new master cylinder, right? did you do anything else? now im really confused, is my tranny bad, my clutch bad, or is it the shitty hydraulics that is causing the grinding and crappy shifting?
Now why does the clutch not drag at lower RPMs but it does when you increase the revs up to the 5000-6500 RPM point? I have no idea, but that is what the clutch test was telling me.
I've tried so many different things in the past to fix this problem it isn't even funny. I thought it was the clutch fluid, so I bought Castrol SRF ($80 per bottle), and it still did it. I've had a remote clutch bleeder since my last clutch install (well over 2 years ago), and I use a Motive Power Bleeder to get all the air out, and I was still having problems. Got a MityVac too...
The McLeod master cylinder was another option as they also use a larger bore, but as stated in my original post, their updated, no leaky version wasn't available when I needed it.
11-04-2008, 03:41 PM
#14
Steve, congratulations on being able to shift the car as it ought to be shifted! I'm glad to hear a positive review from you and from everyone else with big grins on their faces.
Expect a seal in the mail sometime in the near future - hopefully sooner than later!
Expect a seal in the mail sometime in the near future - hopefully sooner than later!
11-04-2008, 09:57 PM
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another bump for Tick tilton adjust master. Great quality. my goal 11's stock internal had several 12.001's . tilton help me row thru the gears to new best 11.95@114
11-04-2008, 11:22 PM
#17
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just ordered one today. I can't wait to get it in. My old MC went out, couldn't afford an adjustable, and the cheap POS i put in sucks and now (months later) i have to let my car idle for 15 minutes before i can get into gear. If its cold outside i can't at all. I could never shift fast at high rpms after i got a new clutch. I hope it fixes all my issues. I'll post up my experience when i put it in.
11-07-2008, 12:01 PM
#18
My pleasure Steve! That is incredible! Congratulations budy.
Thank you for the order - you will not be disappointed.
I just ordered one today. I can't wait to get it in. My old MC went out, couldn't afford an adjustable, and the cheap POS i put in sucks and now (months later) i have to let my car idle for 15 minutes before i can get into gear. If its cold outside i can't at all. I could never shift fast at high rpms after i got a new clutch. I hope it fixes all my issues. I'll post up my experience when i put it in.
11-12-2008, 04:49 PM
#20
TECH Resident
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i am so excited after reading this thread!!!u guys just saved me a lot of time
.i couldn't understand why i kept getting blockage when i power shifted
. i took my bonestock ss to the track for the first time friday nite.by the time i was goin to power shift into 3rd i got major blockage!! kept trying to force it until it ground right in
. btw i trapped 99mph an ran low 15s
.i had a lot of fun but because of major f' ups i know i left a lot out there! any suggestions to what i should run?? i want to shift like a knife cutting through butter. future plans 4xx aluminum build?? thanks guys time to start saving
btw what is a seal that you guys are talking about???
.i couldn't understand why i kept getting blockage when i power shifted. i took my bonestock ss to the track for the first time friday nite.by the time i was goin to power shift into 3rd i got major blockage!! kept trying to force it until it ground right in. btw i trapped 99mph an ran low 15s.i had a lot of fun but because of major f' ups i know i left a lot out there! any suggestions to what i should run?? i want to shift like a knife cutting through butter. future plans 4xx aluminum build?? thanks guys time to start savingbtw what is a seal that you guys are talking about???