Has anyone ever tried to reroute the clutch line on an f-body?
I have been digging around for answers on what makes the pedal stick, and one common theme is boiling the fluid. I found a writeup about a guy putting an LS1/T56 in a 240Z and he used this Adapter to mate up to a -3 AN line. He was also using a tilton master.
I am about to put headers on my car and I was wondering if i could take some steps to prevent my clutch fluid form being cooked all the time. Maybe this would keep my clutch off the floor.
PS I plan on doing a new master when I do headers.
99 Z28. LS6 w/asa cam, Lid, Edelbrock SS LT's, Custom ORY w/ Flowmaster merge, Magnaflow, Ported TB & LS6 intake. Custom Tilton master. 18/19" c6 z06 machine face, CTS-V brakes, Harwood cowl hood. The carpet and dash have 180K
Re-routing the clutch line isn't a bad idea, but it certainly isn't the easiest thing in the world to do. We designed our Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit with the boiling problems in mind.
Our kit takes multiple steps to avoid fluid boil: first and foremost being that our cylinder (made by Tilton) flows more fluid than a stocker. The more fluid you're moving, the less likely it is to boil. Our second step is using an unrestricted line - meaning that the fluid isn't held up at any point in the line, and eliminating the need for the "drill mod". Lastly, we had our lines wrapped in a very high temperature resistant sleeve that many teams use in NASCAR applications.
So yes, you can re-route your line - but wouldn't it be much easier to install a Tick Performance Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit and know for sure that all your problems will be solved?
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