Do it my self, or pay 250$??
11-07-2008, 09:23 PM
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Do it my self, or pay 250$?? I've never done any work on a transmission before. I'm a little shaky on weather i should replace my clutch and flywheel my self, or if should pay a guy i know 250bucks to do it..... What do you guys think?
11-07-2008, 09:27 PM
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if u know he will do a good job and u have the extra coin just pay. i helped my buddy change his clutch it wasnt that hard just time consuming and i just hate being under a car unless i have a lift....
11-08-2008, 09:21 AM
#5
Despite having a lift, my first clutch change took me 6 hours to do. Subsequent transmission removals took 3-4 hours.
Have to take into account that not everything will want to come out cleanly or without a fight. Someone says 4 hours, plan double that, add the fact on jack stands maybe triple that as your ability to torque on a bolt is greatly reduced.
Tips on top of normal instructions:
I'd also drain the transmission as on your back its a very heavy piece that's oddly shaped for balance. Just carrying it alone standing is awkward, I can lift it but I'd compare it to trying to hold an old heavy CRT tube TV or monitor, which you have to hold a certain way to carry. So I'd get some kind of wheel cart that can hold it or transmission jack.
Getting to the top bolts are tricky, my method was to remove the y-pipe for more clearance and tilt the powertrain down.
Invest in a flywheel holding tool. Especially when on your back will appreciate it once you start removing bolts from the clutch. Jamming the screwdriver between the flywheel and the starter does work, but I get freaked out that I may break a chunk off my block.
Don't use the grease or wet bread method to get the pilot bearing out. Short of it is the crank is hollow and will push the plug out. Expect than any small pilot bearing removal tool will probably be too big so have a dremel, brake fluid cleaner and a magnet handy for when you cut that sucker out.
Use a bushing instead of a bearing for replacement.
Replace the slave while in there.
Considering the time involved, if the guy you know is trustworthy and knows or has done this before with certainty and knows the little nuances like the hollow crank.
Don't forget when reassembling to make sure your torque arm mount bolt is secure. I made that mistake once and it shook itself out during a 1/4 mile run. Scary as hell to have the torque arm bang up during a shift. You think something broke bad.
Have to take into account that not everything will want to come out cleanly or without a fight. Someone says 4 hours, plan double that, add the fact on jack stands maybe triple that as your ability to torque on a bolt is greatly reduced.
Tips on top of normal instructions:
I'd also drain the transmission as on your back its a very heavy piece that's oddly shaped for balance. Just carrying it alone standing is awkward, I can lift it but I'd compare it to trying to hold an old heavy CRT tube TV or monitor, which you have to hold a certain way to carry. So I'd get some kind of wheel cart that can hold it or transmission jack.
Getting to the top bolts are tricky, my method was to remove the y-pipe for more clearance and tilt the powertrain down.
Invest in a flywheel holding tool. Especially when on your back will appreciate it once you start removing bolts from the clutch. Jamming the screwdriver between the flywheel and the starter does work, but I get freaked out that I may break a chunk off my block.
Don't use the grease or wet bread method to get the pilot bearing out. Short of it is the crank is hollow and will push the plug out. Expect than any small pilot bearing removal tool will probably be too big so have a dremel, brake fluid cleaner and a magnet handy for when you cut that sucker out.
Use a bushing instead of a bearing for replacement.
Replace the slave while in there.
Considering the time involved, if the guy you know is trustworthy and knows or has done this before with certainty and knows the little nuances like the hollow crank.
Don't forget when reassembling to make sure your torque arm mount bolt is secure. I made that mistake once and it shook itself out during a 1/4 mile run. Scary as hell to have the torque arm bang up during a shift. You think something broke bad.
11-08-2008, 11:55 PM
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Despite having a lift, my first clutch change took me 6 hours to do. Subsequent transmission removals took 3-4 hours.
Have to take into account that not everything will want to come out cleanly or without a fight. Someone says 4 hours, plan double that, add the fact on jack stands maybe triple that as your ability to torque on a bolt is greatly reduced.
Tips on top of normal instructions:
I'd also drain the transmission as on your back its a very heavy piece that's oddly shaped for balance. Just carrying it alone standing is awkward, I can lift it but I'd compare it to trying to hold an old heavy CRT tube TV or monitor, which you have to hold a certain way to carry. So I'd get some kind of wheel cart that can hold it or transmission jack.
Getting to the top bolts are tricky, my method was to remove the y-pipe for more clearance and tilt the powertrain down.
Invest in a flywheel holding tool. Especially when on your back will appreciate it once you start removing bolts from the clutch. Jamming the screwdriver between the flywheel and the starter does work, but I get freaked out that I may break a chunk off my block.
Don't use the grease or wet bread method to get the pilot bearing out. Short of it is the crank is hollow and will push the plug out. Expect than any small pilot bearing removal tool will probably be too big so have a dremel, brake fluid cleaner and a magnet handy for when you cut that sucker out.
Use a bushing instead of a bearing for replacement.
Replace the slave while in there.
Considering the time involved, if the guy you know is trustworthy and knows or has done this before with certainty and knows the little nuances like the hollow crank.
Don't forget when reassembling to make sure your torque arm mount bolt is secure. I made that mistake once and it shook itself out during a 1/4 mile run. Scary as hell to have the torque arm bang up during a shift. You think something broke bad.
Have to take into account that not everything will want to come out cleanly or without a fight. Someone says 4 hours, plan double that, add the fact on jack stands maybe triple that as your ability to torque on a bolt is greatly reduced.
Tips on top of normal instructions:
I'd also drain the transmission as on your back its a very heavy piece that's oddly shaped for balance. Just carrying it alone standing is awkward, I can lift it but I'd compare it to trying to hold an old heavy CRT tube TV or monitor, which you have to hold a certain way to carry. So I'd get some kind of wheel cart that can hold it or transmission jack.
Getting to the top bolts are tricky, my method was to remove the y-pipe for more clearance and tilt the powertrain down.
Invest in a flywheel holding tool. Especially when on your back will appreciate it once you start removing bolts from the clutch. Jamming the screwdriver between the flywheel and the starter does work, but I get freaked out that I may break a chunk off my block.
Don't use the grease or wet bread method to get the pilot bearing out. Short of it is the crank is hollow and will push the plug out. Expect than any small pilot bearing removal tool will probably be too big so have a dremel, brake fluid cleaner and a magnet handy for when you cut that sucker out.
Use a bushing instead of a bearing for replacement.
Replace the slave while in there.
Considering the time involved, if the guy you know is trustworthy and knows or has done this before with certainty and knows the little nuances like the hollow crank.
Don't forget when reassembling to make sure your torque arm mount bolt is secure. I made that mistake once and it shook itself out during a 1/4 mile run. Scary as hell to have the torque arm bang up during a shift. You think something broke bad.
There are several things with this post that I don't agree with. First of all, it doesn't take anywhere near to 3-4 hours to REMOVE the transmission...especially if you have a lift. You can have the tranny out in an hour with a lift and air tools. I know because i've done it a few times. Without a lift i would expect 2-3. If you are talking a complete clutch replacement in 3-4hrs then I agree. Jackstands will certainly add time, but I would still recommend doing it yourself.
Things DO come out nice and easy if you are using the right tools. I'm not sure what you had to fight with to get out?
With an air ratchet, you don't need to jam a screw driver in anything or need a "flywheel holding tool." The bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel should NOT be that tight. Don't remember the torque specs right off hand, but I wanna say they are less than 25 ft/lbs.
Also, draining the fluid is pointless. If your seals are good, it won't leak anything by removing it. The tranny holds what, 5-6 pounds of fluid? When you are talking about a 70-80 pound transmission who cares about 5 more. Besides, you should be placing a floor jack under it to raise/lower it anyway.
Getting to the top bolts isn't difficult if you have the right tools. DONT REMOVE THE Y PIPE. You just need LOTS of extensions! Literally about 3-4' of extension...you want to get back past the end of the tailhousing. A wobble joint is a must.
This is one of those things that you really can't screw up. Everything will only go in one way. The ONLY thing that you need to make sure of is the clutch disc is faced the right way.....it even says right on it! If you can spin a wrench and have a good set of tools, you can change it yourself. A lift, impact, and air tools will certainly make things go much smoother.
I agree with using a bushing not bearing and replacing the slave cylinder......ask me how I know!!!
Your access to the right tools will have more of an impact on time than anything esle. The right tools and things will go smooth.......try to make due with crappy tools and you WILL be there for HOURS.
Besides, you will learns tons about your car while you are under there and who knows, maybe you will be the one answering questions on here rather than asking them!!
If all else fails, READ THE STICKY!
Last edited by spm4520; 11-09-2008 at 12:22 AM.