Spec Super Twin pics
01-14-2009, 06:23 PM
#5
Not really considering this is my 5th clutch in less than 25K. Kept doing what everyone else did get the best cheapest clutch. It doesn't work, so I opted to do it the right way and this thing is fully rebuildable for around $400. Not a bad deal considering my Tex cost over $950 and slipped first time out on the dyno with 570 rwhp.
Trending Topics
01-14-2009, 08:14 PM
#8
95% of the vendors on this site recommend it. Most would not even tell me about this clutch when calling and asking vague questions just to see what they would say but when you brought this clutch up they almost all said that is what I would run if it were my car but we don't sell very many of them.
01-14-2009, 09:27 PM
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant,Ar.
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not really considering this is my 5th clutch in less than 25K. Kept doing what everyone else did get the best cheapest clutch. It doesn't work, so I opted to do it the right way and this thing is fully rebuildable for around $400. Not a bad deal considering my Tex cost over $950 and slipped first time out on the dyno with 570 rwhp.
I had a spec less than 500 miles......
01-14-2009, 09:36 PM
#10
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I, too, have not had luck with both a Spec 3 and later a Spec 3+.
I hope their Spec Super Twin series does well, but I'm sorry. I don't see how it can be recommended strongly so soon... Wait a year or two, then we'll know for sure. It does look like a quality unit that's for sure.
I hope their Spec Super Twin series does well, but I'm sorry. I don't see how it can be recommended strongly so soon... Wait a year or two, then we'll know for sure. It does look like a quality unit that's for sure.
01-14-2009, 10:11 PM
#12
01-15-2009, 03:34 PM
#14
I have a few points of clarification...in hopes that this thread will be as accurate as possible.
Busa, I am not sure who you spoke with but we generally determine pricing for rebuilds by assessing what needs to be replaced. In a full rebuild though, with new disc material, new friction surfaces, and a new floater plate pricing will be betweeh 50-60% of the initial kit cost. This can be less and would be determined on a case by case bases after inspection of the components.
Bboy, I am aware of a number of customers that have well over 10K miles and more than two years of use on these units. These are not just internally tested parts either. In fact, I have already received a few units for rebuild. None of those that have been returned were removed for wear or material related issues. They were sent back while the owners further modified the cars...some upgraded to higher stages, some simply opted to rebuild with the same capacity in mind.
I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Busa, I am not sure who you spoke with but we generally determine pricing for rebuilds by assessing what needs to be replaced. In a full rebuild though, with new disc material, new friction surfaces, and a new floater plate pricing will be betweeh 50-60% of the initial kit cost. This can be less and would be determined on a case by case bases after inspection of the components.
Bboy, I am aware of a number of customers that have well over 10K miles and more than two years of use on these units. These are not just internally tested parts either. In fact, I have already received a few units for rebuild. None of those that have been returned were removed for wear or material related issues. They were sent back while the owners further modified the cars...some upgraded to higher stages, some simply opted to rebuild with the same capacity in mind.
I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
01-15-2009, 04:50 PM
#15
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a few points of clarification...in hopes that this thread will be as accurate as possible.
Busa, I am not sure who you spoke with but we generally determine pricing for rebuilds by assessing what needs to be replaced. In a full rebuild though, with new disc material, new friction surfaces, and a new floater plate pricing will be betweeh 50-60% of the initial kit cost. This can be less and would be determined on a case by case bases after inspection of the components.
Bboy, I am aware of a number of customers that have well over 10K miles and more than two years of use on these units. These are not just internally tested parts either. In fact, I have already received a few units for rebuild. None of those that have been returned were removed for wear or material related issues. They were sent back while the owners further modified the cars...some upgraded to higher stages, some simply opted to rebuild with the same capacity in mind.
I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Busa, I am not sure who you spoke with but we generally determine pricing for rebuilds by assessing what needs to be replaced. In a full rebuild though, with new disc material, new friction surfaces, and a new floater plate pricing will be betweeh 50-60% of the initial kit cost. This can be less and would be determined on a case by case bases after inspection of the components.
Bboy, I am aware of a number of customers that have well over 10K miles and more than two years of use on these units. These are not just internally tested parts either. In fact, I have already received a few units for rebuild. None of those that have been returned were removed for wear or material related issues. They were sent back while the owners further modified the cars...some upgraded to higher stages, some simply opted to rebuild with the same capacity in mind.
I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Maybe a year or two from now, posters like the OP can come back and tell us how they're at 15k miles and such... Cool. For now, we're limited here to how pretty it looks and how hard the m'fer grabs. Looking good so far, so Kudos.
My Spec 3 sucked btw... My Spec 3+ was awesome, but it had a really heavy clutch pedal (unavoidable) and I fucked it up with a NASTY rear main seal leak so I never got a good test of mileage with it... FWIW.
I almost bought one, but then I found a Tex Exo-Skel twin for sale here at a used price but new in the box... Big price difference... If not I would have gone for the Spec... I had heard good things from Slohawk (sponsor here) about the Spec Super Twin grabbin'n hard on a customer's car.
01-15-2009, 07:31 PM
#16
I have a 3+ and my spec 3+ before lasted for about 20k and I used to neglect my Hydraulics.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/H...2ci_158187.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/H...2ci_158187.htm
01-15-2009, 08:34 PM
#17
No failures from known cars to get a new clutch atleast twice a year from abuse.How about 40-50k miles on them pushing 700+rwhp?
In truth,out of all the clutches we've destroyed/worn out.These have been the best so far.From street driving a high hp DD car to going to the track and doing 10-12 passes slipping the clutch out of the hole at 6000rpm and 800rwhp.
BTW-Tiago has the stage 5 disks which we never run due to the nature of iron disks. On/off clutch with no drivability.
01-15-2009, 08:56 PM
#18
9 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: HOUSTON-TX
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My first twin had horrible street manners, very on/off zero slip, very high engagement point, difficult to drive.
when I sent it back to Spec they found out something was wrong with the pressure plate, I'll let Jeremy say more if need be. But the new clutch, is completely different, perfectly streetable, still same iron discs, but it is much better to drive, and it is slippable to take off, more of a street clutch.
Im putting quite a bit of power through it since the day it went in, I plan on continuing that. Even though my car is not a daily driver, every mile it gets is very hard
when I sent it back to Spec they found out something was wrong with the pressure plate, I'll let Jeremy say more if need be. But the new clutch, is completely different, perfectly streetable, still same iron discs, but it is much better to drive, and it is slippable to take off, more of a street clutch.
Im putting quite a bit of power through it since the day it went in, I plan on continuing that. Even though my car is not a daily driver, every mile it gets is very hard
01-15-2009, 09:41 PM
#19
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Umm,I've been running these since the prototype's.I'll say 3-4years now?
No failures from known cars to get a new clutch atleast twice a year from abuse.How about 40-50k miles on them pushing 700+rwhp?
In truth,out of all the clutches we've destroyed/worn out.These have been the best so far.From street driving a high hp DD car to going to the track and doing 10-12 passes slipping the clutch out of the hole at 6000rpm and 800rwhp.
BTW-Tiago has the stage 5 disks which we never run due to the nature of iron disks. On/off clutch with no drivability.
No failures from known cars to get a new clutch atleast twice a year from abuse.How about 40-50k miles on them pushing 700+rwhp?
In truth,out of all the clutches we've destroyed/worn out.These have been the best so far.From street driving a high hp DD car to going to the track and doing 10-12 passes slipping the clutch out of the hole at 6000rpm and 800rwhp.
BTW-Tiago has the stage 5 disks which we never run due to the nature of iron disks. On/off clutch with no drivability.
*cough*
Originally Posted by bboyferal
I had heard good things from Slohawk (sponsor here) about the Spec Super Twin grabbin'n hard on a customer's car.
Have you ever posted about the 40k miles on them? Regardless, now I know... Cool.
