Drill mod Review: What not to do & End resluts
06-03-2009, 07:19 PM
#1
Drill mod Review: What not to do & End resluts Ok, i just finished up with my drill mod today, if you dont know what the drill mod is, its basically drilling out a restriction in your clutch master to slave cylinder line.
So ive never really worked on my clutch system before so i was intimidated by this, never bled they system either. I did make a big mistake and id like to point it out so no one else does it.
one thing that really helped was the Mityvac This thing made bleeding the system soooooooo easy, well worth the $45, even if i never use it again.
all you have to do is get to your clutch pedal under the dash, this includes taking out some plastic pieces and putting them to the side, remember to keep track of the screws.
then i dissconnected the master cylinder from the clutch pedal, there is a retaining clip on there, once you get that off, you should be able to slide out the master away from the clutch pedal.
then you need to take out the two nuts on the master that goes through the firewall and connects to a U shapped bolt (holds the master cylinder against the firewall) remove the two nuts, then go under the hood and pull the u bolt out. now your master should just hang there.
Next you can open the master resivour, and i used a seringe to drain the fluid out. then unplug the rubber hose from under the resivior.
now you need to get under the car, here you should see the braided line going into the trans mission, its a quick dissconnect line, which means you have to push the outter part of in, and pull it out.
now you should be able to go under the hood and pull out the master cylinder with the braided line and the rubber line on it.
next you need to take the braided line off the master, all you need is something the same size as the retaining pin and tap it with the hammer until it falls out, DONT LOSE IT.
next you should be left with just a braided line.
now here is where i screwed up, i didnt pay attention to the details, and drilled out the side with the quick dissconnect fitting, this is wrong, you need to drill out the part that goes into the master cylinder NOT the side that goes into the trans mission.
what i did here was i put a cloth around it and put it in a vice (cloth protected the fitting so i didnt smash it) then i made sure it was straight up and down, if you take a small drill bit and put it into the line you can feel it stop, this is where the restriction is.
Now you need a 1/8 drill bit, ( i put some grease on it to catch the shavings) you now need to slowly drill into the fitting, you should keep pulling it out and cleaning the shavings, you will know when you are done when the drill bit feels like it moves free, DONT keep drilling if your not sure, you risk drilling into the braided hose. if your not sure, stick a smaller drill bit in there by hand and if it goes in freely you know the restictions gone.
after this i took my seringe and filled with brake fluid, pushed it into the quick dissconnect and sprayed it down the line. i did this a few times to flush out any metal shavings, this is important, if you leave shavings in there they could clog up your line and cause a restriction.
now i put the line back on the master cylinder, hooked up everything the same way i took it apart.
when i had everything back together i filled the master resivior back up and stuck my mity vac into the bottom of the resivior, i started pumping the mityvac and noticed it was pulling fluid and air bubbles out, i did this a few times until i didnt get anymore bubbles. I topped off the resiviour with DOT 4 fluid (higher boiling point).
Results
next i jumped in my car and pushed the pedal down, it felt a little easier to push, then i started the car, seems like it goes into gear really easy now, i took it for a drive and noticed shifting was much easier, and even took it to 6500 and couldnt believe how easy it went into gear! ive been driving it around town and it takes off easier from a stop also.
im not sure what part of this made it easier to drive, maybe a combination of bleeding the system, using dot 4 fluid and doing the drill mod. All i know now is it drives and shifts alot better. if you have a 6speed and havent done this, you should.
overall time was a couple hours, by myself. cost me $45 for the mityvac, 5 for the fluid. oh, and $49 for a new braided line
dont drill the wrong side....Dont be that guy 
So ive never really worked on my clutch system before so i was intimidated by this, never bled they system either. I did make a big mistake and id like to point it out so no one else does it.
one thing that really helped was the Mityvac This thing made bleeding the system soooooooo easy, well worth the $45, even if i never use it again.
all you have to do is get to your clutch pedal under the dash, this includes taking out some plastic pieces and putting them to the side, remember to keep track of the screws.
then i dissconnected the master cylinder from the clutch pedal, there is a retaining clip on there, once you get that off, you should be able to slide out the master away from the clutch pedal.
then you need to take out the two nuts on the master that goes through the firewall and connects to a U shapped bolt (holds the master cylinder against the firewall) remove the two nuts, then go under the hood and pull the u bolt out. now your master should just hang there.
Next you can open the master resivour, and i used a seringe to drain the fluid out. then unplug the rubber hose from under the resivior.
now you need to get under the car, here you should see the braided line going into the trans mission, its a quick dissconnect line, which means you have to push the outter part of in, and pull it out.
now you should be able to go under the hood and pull out the master cylinder with the braided line and the rubber line on it.
next you need to take the braided line off the master, all you need is something the same size as the retaining pin and tap it with the hammer until it falls out, DONT LOSE IT.
next you should be left with just a braided line.
now here is where i screwed up, i didnt pay attention to the details, and drilled out the side with the quick dissconnect fitting, this is wrong, you need to drill out the part that goes into the master cylinder NOT the side that goes into the trans mission.
what i did here was i put a cloth around it and put it in a vice (cloth protected the fitting so i didnt smash it) then i made sure it was straight up and down, if you take a small drill bit and put it into the line you can feel it stop, this is where the restriction is.
Now you need a 1/8 drill bit, ( i put some grease on it to catch the shavings) you now need to slowly drill into the fitting, you should keep pulling it out and cleaning the shavings, you will know when you are done when the drill bit feels like it moves free, DONT keep drilling if your not sure, you risk drilling into the braided hose. if your not sure, stick a smaller drill bit in there by hand and if it goes in freely you know the restictions gone.
after this i took my seringe and filled with brake fluid, pushed it into the quick dissconnect and sprayed it down the line. i did this a few times to flush out any metal shavings, this is important, if you leave shavings in there they could clog up your line and cause a restriction.
now i put the line back on the master cylinder, hooked up everything the same way i took it apart.
when i had everything back together i filled the master resivior back up and stuck my mity vac into the bottom of the resivior, i started pumping the mityvac and noticed it was pulling fluid and air bubbles out, i did this a few times until i didnt get anymore bubbles. I topped off the resiviour with DOT 4 fluid (higher boiling point).
Results
next i jumped in my car and pushed the pedal down, it felt a little easier to push, then i started the car, seems like it goes into gear really easy now, i took it for a drive and noticed shifting was much easier, and even took it to 6500 and couldnt believe how easy it went into gear! ive been driving it around town and it takes off easier from a stop also.
im not sure what part of this made it easier to drive, maybe a combination of bleeding the system, using dot 4 fluid and doing the drill mod. All i know now is it drives and shifts alot better. if you have a 6speed and havent done this, you should.
overall time was a couple hours, by myself. cost me $45 for the mityvac, 5 for the fluid. oh, and $49 for a new braided line
dont drill the wrong side....Dont be that guy 
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Enrike Torres Evans (05-25-2020)
06-03-2009, 08:29 PM
#2
You sir, have MADE MY NIGHT by posting this. I was going to do this mod but I was so unsure of what to do or where to start I just didn't mess with it. Could you elaborate on the bleeding process?
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oldngray (06-18-2020)
06-03-2009, 09:31 PM
#5
then i just pumped the mity vac, it builds pressure and acts like a vacuum cleaner and just sucks all the air out of the system, once i was sure there was no more air in the system , i just topped of the clutch fluid (brake fluid DOT4) and took it for a drive. the bleeding with the mity vac was so easy, and that was the part i was most worried about.
what year is your car? i know the 01-02 have updated hydraulic parts, my motor and trans is out of an 02.
or you could still have air in your system..
or you might not of gotten all the shavings out of the line and they are acting as a restiction (same as not having the drill mod done.
what brake fluid did you use?
did you wrap the line with heat reflectant tape? ( i didnt, but if i have problems ill crawl under the car and fix it.
either one of those or you have a bad master or slave.
you can find them at most parts stores, such as schucks. they look like a little paint gun. they arent all called mity vac, just say your looking for something for bleeding brakes.
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06-03-2009, 11:21 PM
#9
i just think that the mity vac was a life saver, and made the bleeding soooooo easy...
i say do it, it might not fix your problems, but it could.
06-03-2009, 11:51 PM
#10
I'm thinking of doing this because the trans feels notchy, and when I'm shifting fast, I don't want this to be an issue and miss gears. Also, I'm hoping this would bring some smoothness to my clutch, right now it feels like its on a cam so when its just about out, it starts to grip but it goes through that part too fast so my engagement is too harsh.
I doubt it will solve everything, but even if this just made the shifts a little easier, that would be great.
I doubt it will solve everything, but even if this just made the shifts a little easier, that would be great.
06-04-2009, 01:58 AM
#11
I'm thinking of doing this because the trans feels notchy, and when I'm shifting fast, I don't want this to be an issue and miss gears. Also, I'm hoping this would bring some smoothness to my clutch, right now it feels like its on a cam so when its just about out, it starts to grip but it goes through that part too fast so my engagement is too harsh.
I doubt it will solve everything, but even if this just made the shifts a little easier, that would be great.
I doubt it will solve everything, but even if this just made the shifts a little easier, that would be great.
I actually considered swapping to a t-350 or t-400 it was pissing me off so much.
06-04-2009, 03:13 PM
#12
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what year is your car? i know the 01-02 have updated hydraulic parts, my motor and trans is out of an 02.
or you could still have air in your system..
or you might not of gotten all the shavings out of the line and they are acting as a restiction (same as not having the drill mod done.
what brake fluid did you use?
did you wrap the line with heat reflectant tape? ( i didnt, but if i have problems ill crawl under the car and fix it.
either one of those or you have a bad master or slave.
or you could still have air in your system..
or you might not of gotten all the shavings out of the line and they are acting as a restiction (same as not having the drill mod done.
what brake fluid did you use?
did you wrap the line with heat reflectant tape? ( i didnt, but if i have problems ill crawl under the car and fix it.
either one of those or you have a bad master or slave.
Line was flushed and wrapped with heat reflective tape. New container of DOT3 was used.
I think that I will need to replace hard parts to get a real solution.
06-04-2009, 08:06 PM
#13
Car is an 01 with about 60k on it. We are going to try bleeding again, but it pumped up fine and was bled by an experience GM tech.
Line was flushed and wrapped with heat reflective tape. New container of DOT3 was used.
I think that I will need to replace hard parts to get a real solution.
Line was flushed and wrapped with heat reflective tape. New container of DOT3 was used.
I think that I will need to replace hard parts to get a real solution.
06-04-2009, 09:54 PM
#14
I have one of the Remote Bleeders, it took me and a friend about 15 min to have mine completely bled out and running nice.
06-04-2009, 11:23 PM
#15
It's easy man..you just take the Master out and drill out the end of the Line that is in the Master. You take it out by popping out the little Roll Pin that is there, then you drill out the line.
You need to bleed it some more.
I have one of the Remote Bleeders, it took me and a friend about 15 min to have mine completely bled out and running nice.
You need to bleed it some more.
I have one of the Remote Bleeders, it took me and a friend about 15 min to have mine completely bled out and running nice.
thats about how long mine took with the mityvac.
worth the $$$$ imo
06-08-2009, 01:21 AM
#19
well, its been about a week now, and its shifting great, but i noticed my clutch fluid is getting dark fast, i believe this is from having long tube headers and not wrapping my braided line with heat tape, so ill proabably be crawling under the car and wrapping it up, i also ordered a short throw shifter from ws6store for $25.00! 6" long, stock is about 8.5"
06-08-2009, 02:44 AM
#20
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If the mod is done on the quick connect hose will the tick Master be the same or is it just a better master and you still have to do the drill mod? Have any of the potental drill mod guys thought of upgrading their shifters? Not just the stick but the whole shifter. I loved the daily driving smoothness of stock but at high rpms at WOT I felt alot of the same issues with the less than perfect high RPM shifts. I went to a Hurst/Billet Plus short throw. I got it from a sponsor for 179.99 with free shipping if I rember right. At first I hated it becuase I lost some of that daily driving smoothness AKA rubber sloppiness. I took out the adjustment springs and have about 200 miles on it and I love it. Feels like a different car at high RPM shifts. If the drill mod works go for it. I had no idea what I was doing and had my shifter changed in an hour and it took care of my issues without messing with getting under and f-body in a driveway.