30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Ok - I bought a new stock master cylinder and bled it. Fluid squirts out and there doesnt seem to be any air bubbles. However the peddle still feels kinda weak. And when the car is running and I push the clutch pedal in, It wont go into any gear...wtf?? Is there still air in the system???

We kept bleeding it and its all fluid shooting out, no air.


Any idea's

NBM-LS1

iTrader: (7)

Explain how you are "bleeding" the system. If you are doing it incorrectly you wont get anywhere.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

First, Id have my brother pump the clutch pedal 5-6 times then, with his foot off the pedal, I cracked the bleeder, then have my brother depress the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor. Fluid squirted out. We did this 6-7 times.

I also tried having him pump the pedal 5-6 times and hold the pedal down then I would crack the bleeder and fluid would come out. same results.

I have some pedal, but it is weak feeling. Not as firm as it should be.
Since I have streams of fluid coming out, Im guessing all the air is out but then whats up with the weak pedal and not going into gear??

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

No need to pump, and that is probaly where you are going wrong. You can either go with a mity vac or just depress the pedal, open bleeder, close when pedal gets to bottom. Repeat, but make sure to keep eye on level in MC, gets low REAL quick

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

when the car is running and i push the clutch in, I hear something happening. Is this the clutch engaging? I dont even know how to describe the sound. It sounds "normal" ...haha

If this is the clutch engaging, does this mean my MC and Slave are working properly?

my CAGS is not hooked up at all. I did have my tuner do a CAGS delete to my PCM.
I also dont have my reverse lockout hooked up either.

Could any of these be the reason its not going into gear??

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

the mity vac dont work all the time....its proilly not blead...
1-pump 3-4 times and hold the clutch to the floor.
2-pop the bleeder, you will feel the pedal go a little light while still to the floor.
3-tighten the bleeder
4-re pump the clutch, at this point the clutch will be on floor with out poping back up
5-repeat till blue in the face or pedal feels good and works
The mity vac works good to get the first big bits of bubbles out when first filling. but will never work as good as good ol fashin'in bleeding

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

So even if Im getting streams of fluid coming out everytime (with no air bubbles), your saying to keep bleeding it until I have a good firm pedal??

At what point do I say screw it and rip the tranny out to inspect the slave and possibly replace it??

WARP211

don't mean to hijack your thread....... but I'm having the same problem.. I read alot of info on here about people using special tools like the mity vac(which I already have) and motive bleeder. I perfer to use the old fashion method two people... I mean its not rocket science ya kno.. basic hydrualic principle... few questions

1) Can I bleed the system with the slave attach to the MC line without it been bolted on the input shaft and tranny in place?

2) I just installed a new MC for the slave too.. Should i bench bleed it? If so, how would you go about bleeding it?

I'm in the process of hooking everything back up... Some postive input please and people that have done these procdures without having issues cuz that the last thing I want..

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

ive gone thru this problem 3 times and the second time destroying a brand new spec 3, i have to just feel it so see if it needs bleeding. But, yes the clutch pedal should have a good firm feeling to it, and through out the whole throw of the pedal. What do you mean by seeing no bubbles? do you mean in the mity vac line? if so they will always rise....i hate the damn thing...I'd say toss that thing in the trash. Yes you can bench bleed the master but the pressure of the clutch's pressure plate stops the slave becoming the bleed pressure point. so no you can not bleed both to getrher.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

the way i bleed is easy, although i have a small hole cut in the floor so i can do it all on my own....i have NEVER had help doing it this way, first.....
1-install your new mc and slave."usally cusing like a bastard trying to get the bitch in"
2-connect everything DRY, now everything is complete - the fluid
3-now fill your res. untill it is to the top.
4-crack the bleeder and let gravity take most of the fluid while KEEPING it filled to the top of the res. DO NOT LET THERE GET AIR IN THE HOLE...!
5-now after a few it will start flowing....now close the bleeder.
6-from this point for me its easy, i put my tool on the bleeder nut thrugh the little hole in the floor and pretty much do the two person bleed method. Pump 3 times-hold-crack bleeder-close bleeder-re pump clutch till theres pressure.
7-repeat till theres a good feel to the clutch...NOW.....test and let the car, and get it warm. make sure it works. Some people say to drive it for a bit to let all the little bubbles work there way out then just bleed it again. ive tryed the bench bleed way and found that usally when you connect the fitting to the slave you reverse the bleed making it pointless.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

when I say no bubbles, I mean no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Its a straight stream of fluid. So seeing this, Im thinking Ok, everything should be good. But then I go to push the clutch in it is very soft. BUT if I pump the pedal, it seems to get more firm as I keep pumping. But while the car is running I cant get it into any gear.

So do I keep bleeding even though its shooting streams of fluid out, Or do I replace the slave?

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

starting to sound like a slave....but before you replace it you need to keep bleeding till you get all that soggy pedal out....keep bleeding...you kin do it....

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Well the 6 speed, MC, Slave cylinder, clutch....were all used and supposively in working condition. I found out the MC was shot though so thats why Im thinking the slave my be **** also.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

yea you should never use used....slaves, if i ever evin see mine where i can touch it...i replace it. i have a warrenty om it at autozone...

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

btw make sure...

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Thanks ttransam

well the tranny is out, suprising easy. with the car already jacked up it only took me a 1/2 hour by myself...

since my car is completly stock im just going to buy a slave from advanced auto.
before i install the transmisson, that clutch is getting inspected. Im going to check on if I need a shim or not. I dont think I installed a shim the first time around.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

YEA YOU WERE BETTER OFF putting new in it...pm'ed ya...

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

I think I found the problem. When I push down on the throw out bearing of the used slave cylinder, it does not seat all the way down. It is 11/16" from being seated complety down.
Now the new slave cylinder I just bought seats all the way down when I push on the throw out bearing.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

New slave is in and it goes in gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
looks like I fixed it.....for now that is!
my wheels are getting retinted blue so I have to wait to take it for a test drive.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

EP...Nevermind....Still not going in gear.

when I tested it last night I didnt have the driveshaft hooked up, I just had a Yolk from another driveshaft in the tail end of the transmisson.
Today i buttoned everything backup and installed the driveshaft, wont go into gear!!

Ok so with the car OFF, I put it in 1st gear. Then I started it up. Slowly let the clutch out and it made a god awful noise. wtf the f*ck.