What's wrong?? Clutch still spongy after Mcleod rebuild and wrap?
07-27-2009, 05:18 AM
#1
What's wrong?? Clutch still spongy after Mcleod rebuild and wrap? Installed my clutch a couple weeks ago, good pedal pressure and catch point. After twenty minutes my clutch pedal had no pressure the first couple of inches of travel and was spongy the other half. I drove it that way until the pedal almost went all the way to the floor and would barely engage. What was weird is I could pump the pedal at a light about 20-25 times and I would have great pedal pressure for the next two shifts and then back to crap. So I bleed the clutch thinking maybe the slave bleed valve wasn't tight. It was great again for another twenty minutes and then back to no pressure for half pedal and spongy the rest.
I have the upgraded Slave cylinder and a Mcleod master cylinder. Both are five years old but only 5000 miles. I put in an APS turbo kit and the Master cylinder line is only inches from the manifold. A friend suggested that possibly the manifold was heating the line causing it to boil and introducing air into the system. So... I wraped the master cylinder line in a heat-sleeve with fire-tape and then put an aluminum heat sheath around that, so triple protection! I had to remove the master to do this so while it was out I rebuilt the master and found the o-ring to be a little chewed up and a lot of clutch dust in their as well. I put everything back in, bled the clutch and it was perfect! Twenty minutes later and no problem, drive everyday for a week and no problem. Then I let the car sit for a week and back to no pedal for a couple of inches and then spongy.
What else could it be? Is my slave bad? Somthing is introducing air into the system/leaking/not sealed correctly. I hate to spend $150 on a new slave and pull the tranny just to have the same thing happen again. If I replace the slave and it still does this then I have NO idea what's causing it. That just leaves the line itself. Anyone ever have this kind of problem? Any ideas?
At this point, the only thing I can think of is to pull the tranny, put in a new slave, and install a speed-bleeder while I'm in there in case the slave doesn't do it. But I can't be bleeding my clutch every other day. I mean I could but who the hell whats to? Even if it only takes five minutes with the speed bleeder... it's a pain in the ***. Is there a way for me to see where it is leaking? I don't care if I have to pull it all out. I just want it fixed. Actually, the clutch is toast anyway after 1000 miles so I have to pull it all anyway. It might have been the 700rwhp but I think it has to do with the clutch not engaging correctly due to the leak. Like it was slipping the clutch the whole time or never completely disengaging it between shifts. I really don't know. I put the clutch in nuetral on a flat surface and it didn't roll at all when I released the clutch.
I have the upgraded Slave cylinder and a Mcleod master cylinder. Both are five years old but only 5000 miles. I put in an APS turbo kit and the Master cylinder line is only inches from the manifold. A friend suggested that possibly the manifold was heating the line causing it to boil and introducing air into the system. So... I wraped the master cylinder line in a heat-sleeve with fire-tape and then put an aluminum heat sheath around that, so triple protection! I had to remove the master to do this so while it was out I rebuilt the master and found the o-ring to be a little chewed up and a lot of clutch dust in their as well. I put everything back in, bled the clutch and it was perfect! Twenty minutes later and no problem, drive everyday for a week and no problem. Then I let the car sit for a week and back to no pedal for a couple of inches and then spongy.
What else could it be? Is my slave bad? Somthing is introducing air into the system/leaking/not sealed correctly. I hate to spend $150 on a new slave and pull the tranny just to have the same thing happen again. If I replace the slave and it still does this then I have NO idea what's causing it. That just leaves the line itself. Anyone ever have this kind of problem? Any ideas?
At this point, the only thing I can think of is to pull the tranny, put in a new slave, and install a speed-bleeder while I'm in there in case the slave doesn't do it. But I can't be bleeding my clutch every other day. I mean I could but who the hell whats to? Even if it only takes five minutes with the speed bleeder... it's a pain in the ***. Is there a way for me to see where it is leaking? I don't care if I have to pull it all out. I just want it fixed. Actually, the clutch is toast anyway after 1000 miles so I have to pull it all anyway. It might have been the 700rwhp but I think it has to do with the clutch not engaging correctly due to the leak. Like it was slipping the clutch the whole time or never completely disengaging it between shifts. I really don't know. I put the clutch in nuetral on a flat surface and it didn't roll at all when I released the clutch.
Last edited by SStolen; 07-27-2009 at 05:27 AM.
07-28-2009, 03:13 PM
#4
FormerVendor
Join Date: Dec 2008
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You may want to consider using our replacement slave 1373. They are made specific to your application so I will need a measurement from the fingers of the pressure plate to the back of the bellhousing where the trans bolts up. Cool thing about our units is they are fully rebuild able and can be fine tuned for clearance using various length pistons. As far as the master I will need you to send it in for inspection, fill out an RGA form on our website www.mcleodind.com
it's the 10th tab on the left.
it's the 10th tab on the left.
