Master Cylinder and Install
08-21-2009, 07:21 PM
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Master Cylinder and Install Hello, I just recently broke my clutch cable so I'm going to be getting a whole new MC. I was thinking about the Tick MC, but was also looking for a good write-up on how to install.
I've looked with the search but didn't turn up any good results. Does anyone know of one I could look at? Is it kind of difficult or a pretty easy thing to do?
I just recently took out my T56 and rebuilt it, so I'm just dieing to get a new MC in to drive it! If the T56 install was my rating of 1-10 10 being the hardest+most time consuming, I would say rebuilding it is an 8-9. How about a rating on the MC install?
It looks as if I may have to take apart the dash a bit to reach up under there but have not had a chance to take a good look.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I've looked with the search but didn't turn up any good results. Does anyone know of one I could look at? Is it kind of difficult or a pretty easy thing to do?
I just recently took out my T56 and rebuilt it, so I'm just dieing to get a new MC in to drive it! If the T56 install was my rating of 1-10 10 being the hardest+most time consuming, I would say rebuilding it is an 8-9. How about a rating on the MC install?
It looks as if I may have to take apart the dash a bit to reach up under there but have not had a chance to take a good look.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
08-21-2009, 07:32 PM
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I am confused, your car does not have a clutch cable.
The MC is easy to change. All you have to do it take the under part of the dash above your pedals out. There is a clip on your pedal that holds the MC rod on, take that off and then remove the two nuts from the MC on the firewall. Next unhook your clutch line from the trans or slave. Then pop the MC res. off and pull the MC out from the engine side. The one tough thing is the clips that hold the bolts or u-bolt to the firewall.
The MC is easy to change. All you have to do it take the under part of the dash above your pedals out. There is a clip on your pedal that holds the MC rod on, take that off and then remove the two nuts from the MC on the firewall. Next unhook your clutch line from the trans or slave. Then pop the MC res. off and pull the MC out from the engine side. The one tough thing is the clips that hold the bolts or u-bolt to the firewall.
08-21-2009, 08:37 PM
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Staging Lane
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Ok cable isn't the right word. It's the metal rod, I guess I called it a cable, sorry. It snapped.
But from the sounds of it, doesn't seem too difficult.
But from the sounds of it, doesn't seem too difficult.
08-21-2009, 08:55 PM
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it is straight foward but i found this link by googling.
http://allirae.wordpress.com/2009/02...n-your-f-body/
http://allirae.wordpress.com/2009/02...n-your-f-body/
08-23-2009, 01:07 PM
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I went up to the local auto store and bought a stock MC instead.. I just didn't want to wait. After installing it, which was indeed a pain in the ***, it doesn't work correctly. It seems as if the pedal won't come out far enough. So when you try to bleed it nothing happens.
Any ideas on why this could be? I suppose I will just be ordering another MC and taking this one back. Perhaps I just need one that's adjustable? I just don't see why this one doesn't work. It looks the same as the one that was originally in there.
It just won't let it the pedal out far enough. It hardly comes out at all.
Any ideas on why this could be? I suppose I will just be ordering another MC and taking this one back. Perhaps I just need one that's adjustable? I just don't see why this one doesn't work. It looks the same as the one that was originally in there.
It just won't let it the pedal out far enough. It hardly comes out at all.
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08-23-2009, 03:59 PM
#9
Staging Lane
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Any input would be nice :p
I know people have other things to do besides post on here. It's just you would think this stock MC would be fine, or at least work to some degree. I just don't understand why it won't let the peddle all the way out. I guess I could take some pics.
The original one that snapped in half had a huge bend in it. Not sure how that happened.
I'll wait patiently
I know people have other things to do besides post on here. It's just you would think this stock MC would be fine, or at least work to some degree. I just don't understand why it won't let the peddle all the way out. I guess I could take some pics.
The original one that snapped in half had a huge bend in it. Not sure how that happened.
I'll wait patiently
08-23-2009, 04:33 PM
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There is ABSOLUTELY no reason why the rod should have bent, THAT I find confusing. 
I doubt your new MC is bad.
Just did not bleed correctly is all.
Without having to describe how to bleed a system, go back to home page of this forum, and there are about 100 threads with how to bleed a MC/slave. I just typed up a description 2 minutes ago...
I doubt your new MC is bad.
Just did not bleed correctly is all.
Without having to describe how to bleed a system, go back to home page of this forum, and there are about 100 threads with how to bleed a MC/slave. I just typed up a description 2 minutes ago...
08-23-2009, 05:56 PM
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Yeah, I've had to bleed it before a couple times. I just don't think that's the problem. I've even gravity bled it for 5 mins or so. It just won't let the clutch pedal out far at all. I would say it lets it out about halfway of how far the clutch pedal should come out.
I can try to take some pics if that would help. But there are really just 2 bolts holding it in. So there isn't really much to adjust.
I wish it was just a straight forward answer. I've been wanting to drive my Firehawk for what seems to be forever.
I would say that my friend and I took out time installing it. The hardest part was getting the U-Bolt to fit in correctly. I'm getting frustrated.
I can try to take some pics if that would help. But there are really just 2 bolts holding it in. So there isn't really much to adjust.
I wish it was just a straight forward answer. I've been wanting to drive my Firehawk for what seems to be forever.
I would say that my friend and I took out time installing it. The hardest part was getting the U-Bolt to fit in correctly. I'm getting frustrated.
08-23-2009, 09:15 PM
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I figured out the problem. The U bolt didn't actually go through the bottom of the MC. So it was holding nothing in. Once I fixed that the clutch feels good and has enough room.
However, I have another problem. I just spent over an hour just trying to bleed it. It just isn't happening. I've been told I need a power bleeder. Is there any other way?
This is my procedure: 1) check reservoir, make sure fluid levels good 2)Pump pedal 15-20 times and hold to floor 3)Release bleed valve, then tighten
Repeat..
Like I said I did that for over an hour and it hardly mad any difference.
However, I have another problem. I just spent over an hour just trying to bleed it. It just isn't happening. I've been told I need a power bleeder. Is there any other way?
This is my procedure: 1) check reservoir, make sure fluid levels good 2)Pump pedal 15-20 times and hold to floor 3)Release bleed valve, then tighten
Repeat..
Like I said I did that for over an hour and it hardly mad any difference.
08-24-2009, 08:41 AM
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I figured out the problem. The U bolt didn't actually go through the bottom of the MC. So it was holding nothing in. Once I fixed that the clutch feels good and has enough room.
However, I have another problem. I just spent over an hour just trying to bleed it. It just isn't happening. I've been told I need a power bleeder. Is there any other way?
This is my procedure: 1) check reservoir, make sure fluid levels good 2)Pump pedal 15-20 times and hold to floor 3)Release bleed valve, then tighten
Repeat..
Like I said I did that for over an hour and it hardly mad any difference.
However, I have another problem. I just spent over an hour just trying to bleed it. It just isn't happening. I've been told I need a power bleeder. Is there any other way?
This is my procedure: 1) check reservoir, make sure fluid levels good 2)Pump pedal 15-20 times and hold to floor 3)Release bleed valve, then tighten
Repeat..
Like I said I did that for over an hour and it hardly mad any difference.
Guys, there are a hundred threads on this, and I even included a link to one, just a few posts above.
Dont pump the pedal. (you can read my link in the above post to know what I am talking about)
08-24-2009, 02:23 PM
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Well, I finally got her running. I was so afraid to start going through all the gears. This was my first T56 rebuild and I wouldn't consider myself very car savvy. However everything works fantastic! I'm so happy to be able to drive my Firehawk again. I had been driving a 97 Mercury Cougar lol
Well, I went up to AutoZone to borrow/buy a MityVac pump. However they don't sell those and they said they no longer loan/borrow tools out any more. So I drove up to Advance Auto Parts and borrowed a Vacuum Pump Brake Bleeder for $50 (they give you the money back when you return it). It took all of about 20 seconds and my line was free of air! The clutch works great. Kind of pissed me off after I spent hours upon hours trying to pump/bleed it and this worked in less than a minute.
But oh well, all it good. I appreciate all your feedback and advice. I will be installing a cam next. That should be fun!
If anyone has any questions or what-not feel free to pm me.
Thanks again guys.
Well, I went up to AutoZone to borrow/buy a MityVac pump. However they don't sell those and they said they no longer loan/borrow tools out any more. So I drove up to Advance Auto Parts and borrowed a Vacuum Pump Brake Bleeder for $50 (they give you the money back when you return it). It took all of about 20 seconds and my line was free of air! The clutch works great. Kind of pissed me off after I spent hours upon hours trying to pump/bleed it and this worked in less than a minute.
But oh well, all it good. I appreciate all your feedback and advice. I will be installing a cam next. That should be fun!
If anyone has any questions or what-not feel free to pm me.
Thanks again guys.
