Clutch Engagement...
#1
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No Clutch Engagement...
So it sounds like I have a typical clutch engagement issue. First off, the car is my '91 Trans Am. I pulled a 5.3 from an '02 truck and converted the lt1 t56 I had with LS1 front plate/input/bellhousing from D&D. The clutch set is a brand new LS7 disc/PP and GM LS2 flywheel. Slave is a brand new GM Fbody unit that I am using one of the Russell -3AN fitting adapters and -3AN line to the Master that I had previously used in the car for my LT1 t56. I HAD a problem with reverse. The snap ring for the reverse fork popped out of its groove and jammed the trans in reverse. I've fixed that and slapped the trans back in. Now I've spent most of the morning reading through all the topics in the first 6-7 pages regarding engagement issues and I just want to get my options listed out here and maybe some input from you guys.
EDIT; Problem is, I have no clutch. Pushing the pedal does almost nothing. I can't force the shifter into any gear while the motor is running. In reverse it will grind and pop out unless I hold it in gear.
1. Rebleed like there is no tommorrow. Obivously a few options here. I've tried manually bleeding with a buddy and with my trusty mityvac to no avail. I have no problem drilling a hole in the pan to reach the bleeder by myself but if there are other ways I'll do that first.
2. Yank the trans yet again and measure to make sure for some fluke reason I don't need a shim? Where do I get shims? Does it go on the clutch side or slave side?
3. Replace the Master or slave. Maybe I have a bad slave out of the box? Maybe my Master went bad from sitting for so long? (car sat a year or so)...
4.Light the car on fire and roll it into traffic. Don't worry, I live on a crazy busy street I'm sure I could hit a truck or something and get on the news.
EDIT; Problem is, I have no clutch. Pushing the pedal does almost nothing. I can't force the shifter into any gear while the motor is running. In reverse it will grind and pop out unless I hold it in gear.
1. Rebleed like there is no tommorrow. Obivously a few options here. I've tried manually bleeding with a buddy and with my trusty mityvac to no avail. I have no problem drilling a hole in the pan to reach the bleeder by myself but if there are other ways I'll do that first.
2. Yank the trans yet again and measure to make sure for some fluke reason I don't need a shim? Where do I get shims? Does it go on the clutch side or slave side?
3. Replace the Master or slave. Maybe I have a bad slave out of the box? Maybe my Master went bad from sitting for so long? (car sat a year or so)...
4.Light the car on fire and roll it into traffic. Don't worry, I live on a crazy busy street I'm sure I could hit a truck or something and get on the news.
Last edited by iansane; 09-22-2009 at 06:48 PM.
#3
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Ha. Sorry. I got too caught up in describing the background, I left out the problem.
Motor off I can shift the the gears with a little notchiness, no more than previous motor. With the motor on it won't go into gear at all and the car will want to push forward. If I start the car in gear it will attempt to drive away. Pumping pedal does nothing.
Motor off I can shift the the gears with a little notchiness, no more than previous motor. With the motor on it won't go into gear at all and the car will want to push forward. If I start the car in gear it will attempt to drive away. Pumping pedal does nothing.
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Agreement? Disagreement? Anybody? Bueller? Bueller? I tried bleeding again today with no result. I guess I'll pull the trans and verify slave travel...
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So I shimmed the slave with the standard 1/8" shim from a spec kit and while in there put in the remote bleeder from tick. Now that I get a massively firmer feeling clutch it still doesn't engage enough. I only have an inch or so of travel of the MC rod from resting position till the pedal hits its padded stop. I feel as if there just isn't enough travel. Car in the air, clutch pressed in gear the tires still spin.
Help?
Help?
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So I shimmed the slave with the standard 1/8" shim from a spec kit and while in there put in the remote bleeder from tick. Now that I get a massively firmer feeling clutch it still doesn't engage enough. I only have an inch or so of travel of the MC rod from resting position till the pedal hits its padded stop. I feel as if there just isn't enough travel. Car in the air, clutch pressed in gear the tires still spin.
Help?
Help?
OK, with car in air, how fast do tires spin? Can you hit brakes, and motor keep running? Or does it die? Tires spinning in air, is NORMAL, as long as it is not excessive.
If you do, then obviously PP is NOT disengaging, which could be a PP or hydraulic issue.
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Speedo indicates ~15mph in the air with clutch engaged, first gear. It doesn't die but lugs down considerably (~2-300rpm) and runs noticeably smoother with brakes off. I know some movement is normal when the tires are in the air but the only way I can get the car in gear is pushing the shifter against whatever gear I want and the wheels will start to spin up and then it'll fall into gear. If the wheels aren't spinning, I'm not getting it into gear. When I pulled the trans to measure the different between the slave and PP fingers I measured close to 3/8" (~1cm). I don't remember his name but the gentleman at Tick said I should need more than the 1/8" spacer. Maybe I'm just loco but wouldn't taking up that entire distance be best for full engagement? Albeit with a loss in mounting strength because it'd be a little like stacking wheel spacers, not such a hot idea.
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What happens if the MC is adjusted out too far? Can I blow seals on the slave easily?