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This is my second car (08 Z06, 09 Z06) with the same setup and both trans have had the EXACT same issue with a few slight differences.
First off, my 08 z06 was in service for 3 months because there were no parts available. The trans exhibited 2nd/3rd grinding and reverse as well. The trans would be double clutched when cold (she is notchy when cold) and shifted normally as anyone here when up to operating temp. the trans was repaired and within 3 more months... It was starting to produce the same exact thing. Block out rings were shot, 1st/2nd/3rd/reverse gears were replaced with their synchros, etc.
I parted out with that car and after missing the Z, I got another at a sweet deal.
Anyways, 7000 miles into this one and I got the EXACT same thing. Block out rings were shot, gears where trashed and the synchro's were all replaced. At this point I'm quit upset as I thought it was just the 08 car.... I searched around the forums and it would seem that the TR6060 (especially in the Z06) is just funky. Plenty of documented problems all exhibiting similar issues.
No matter, at around 10K miles... the clutch pedal went dead and stuck to the floor. I know this is hydraulic not a transmission issue however that brings me to another point. Clutch is starting to slip some with the usual smell of success!!
With the 08 AND the 09, i've had to clean out the clutch reservoir about once a month due to it being contaminated with clutch dust. The fluid would be changed out until it was crystal clear and replaced again when black. The process is a bit involved but nothing crazy.... you basically remove dirty fluid, replace with new fluid, pump the pedal 25 times check for dirty fluid. Redo process if necessary.
I can feel it when I need to replace as I'll start missing gears and the pedal feels becomes more sluggish. If left this way, the MC would go south and start to leak.
So, number one.... what is the cause of the transmission acting up like this? I spoke to a few vendors and they all seem to agree that it may have something to do with the factory blockout rings.Which leads me to my next thought...
Are there ANY vendors/trans shops here that can address this reliability issue while beefing it up? I spoke to a shop however after asking them about the blockout rings, their rebuild price ($2500.00) does not include the parts he himself mentioned to me were to problem with the TR6060. Furthermore, considering the hydraulics, is there a more efficient setup (tick for example) that might help in keep the fluid cleaner for more time and require less changes thus less chances of a problem induced from contaminated fluid?
"A true hotrodder wouldn't be content until he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo
If the gears were shot and the syncro assemblies as well that means there was some definate grinding while trying to select the gears. I would say that most if not all of your issues can be blamed on the hydraulics. A clutch that will not dissengage fully is not only hard on the clutch itself, but it also puts severe wear on the blockers and fork pads inside the transmission.
We don't offer a cylinder for a c6 at this point but would be glad to get something in the works if someone would be willing to leave us there car for a few weeks. Also, at some point gm went to a pedal position sensor which may throw a kink in our whole idea of an adjustable master. If nothing else we could probably take the bore size down to the factory bore size or just one step above in order to have the pedal adjusted at full stroke regardless in order for the sensor to function as it should.
__________________ Tick Performance Automotive Built T56's, performance parts, and installation
Old Combo: 5.44 @ 133 in the 1/8 with a 1.22 sixty. RS275
New Combo: The one that kills RS
I have called around and I was told exactly that.... there are NO parts available from tremec for whatever reason. I would hope that there are in-house activity to remedy the situation but only time will tell.
I agree that the hydraulic system, in contrast to my other cars, is the weak point. By far, this setup contaminates the fluid way to quickly and requires a change almost on a weekly bases. I hold out as I it can get tidious but without changing over to clean fluid, you can feel the clutch get spongy and eventually, more notchyness in the trans and missed gears when WOT.
If I was closer (jonathan) I wouldn't mind dropping the car off. Maybe, we can work something out... i'll call. But if we can simply draw up a hydraulic solution to remedy the issues I feel you'll find a large market as I'm not the only person complaining about the tr6060. There are tons of threads over on CF forum.
So, taking it one step forward... is it logical to go with a fully built T56 or will the "weak" hydraulic setup still destroy that one as well?
Sorry to hear about your problems with the TR6060, but it's not quite true that parts are only available at the dealer -- my company (Auto Gear) is stocking OE Tremec for the Corvette app. Download a preliminary bill of materials on our website, call for quotes.
My concern or thought process is if, for example, the blockout rings are to blame... why not just produce a set out of better material that will last longer?
Also, no... the fluid has never been changed since I was told that you should never change your trans fluid as it is suppose to be good for the lifetime of the transmission. Well, what if the lifetime of trans abruptly ends with all the parts in pieces?!
Re the suggestion that the material for the TR6060 rings be upgraded, they're already sintered bronze, which is as durable as it gets -- the only material alternative would be molycoated serrations on steel as ZF does on truck apps, but thats never really been tried on such small diameter cones. I think Getrag (who designed the TR6060 synchros) got the design right. The problem is the capacity of the system -- too much inertia for fast shifting.
As to changing the lube, all manuals wear and contaminate the oil doing so; in theory all modern production boxes get a tiny amount of run-in at the plant, but changing the lube after break-in is a good idea, particularly at higher power levels.
George E Sollish
Chief Engineer, Auto Gear Company