white84z28

Hey Guys,

I recently started a Ls1 Swap into my 84 H.O. Z28. The car already had a low mileage tremec 3550 swap done when i bought it. Again this is a Gm Version of the tremec 3550, so it already has the correct 26 spline 1 1/8 input shaft.

Due to a recent driveshaft failure i was forced to upgrade to a lakewood blowproof bellhousing with mounting points for the stock 3rd gen hydraulics. This bellhousing will fin 153 and 168 tooth flywheels, so thats not a problem.

Im concerned that the depth of the flywheel and clutch will affect clutch release. From what i have gathered from searches is that ls1 using autos require a spacer so that the flexplate is where it should be. I am not sure if this is a factor on a standard setup.

So is what i am asking is with out trashing my bellhousing and stock hydraulics, can i use a ls2 flywheel and ls7 clutch/pilot bearing with my application or will i run into issues with clutch release.

Any support is greatly appreciated.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

If you search for TKO / LSx combos, you'll have the same issues.. You can't really mix the OEM LSx clutch/FW setups with older fork clutch systems. You'll need to make the choice on the clutch engagement setup, then adapt from there..

white84z28

what about switching over to a hydraulic throwout bearing and shimming it up to spec? will this allow me to use a t56 style clutch?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

It might be possible.. I'd check with McLeod and see if they've setup a combo like that before with their sleeved hyd TOB. You'll probably have to test fit the setup and take measurements to get the correct TOB and spacers.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Check into the extended pilot bearing; the LS_ crank is further forward (except for early production 6.0 cranks IIRC.) That would potentially take care of the input shaft length issue.

The external slave / relocated pivot fork / TO brg. situation will work out a few diff. ways. Possibly a taller TO brg. Possibly an adjustable ballstud (not sure if the Lakewood is threaded for the stock hyd. thirdgen ballstud)

There are a number of a/m hyd. TO brg assy's that are meant to slip onto the bearing retainer sleeve too.

white84z28

the lakewood bellhousing is only threaded for an adjutable ball stud, but the tko requires an adapter roughly a half inch thick to mount to stock t5 bellhousings to change the pattern from the 17* tilt to straight up. My Lakewood has added mounting points for muncie/borg warner trans with the straight up pattern. I think i may be able to adjust the stud out possibly the .4" that the flange is set back. Im still concerned with the depth of my bellhousing.

After doing some research i have stumbled upon something thats i wish i saw earlier. My bellhousing (part #15020) shows a depth of 6.45". When I looked up the lakewood bellhousing for Muncie/Richmond/Borg Warner to Ls1 with mechanical linkage(part # 15005), the depth is showing 6.45" as well. Im thinking with this new found info, i can toss my adapter, use the trans in its intended straight up location on the bellhousing, I "should" be able to use my stock hydraulics with some adjustments on my pivot ball and use a standard lsx style clutch.

What do you guys think?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I assumed (and you confirmed) that you had the 84-92 application dual pattern bell, which is great. I did not know that it was threaded for their adjustable ballstud at the 84-92 location; that's great for your app.

Your trans + rotation plate + T5 bell = works w/ SBC. Which means that removal of the adapter would put your input into the crank the right amount for LS_. But that's if your TKO is the straight-up T5/Muncie pattern that's on your Lakewood bell. (I don't know the TKOs well.)

Starting to sound good.

white84z28

Thats the one thing i will have to double check, Mines not a tko, its an early tremec 3550, so im hoping it has the muncie and not the square ford pattern. Last time i looked at it i thought it was the muncie pattern, but its currently on the back of my sbc in the car. I may still run the Mcleod extended pilot bearing just to be on the safe side. Once i get the motor built i can pull my old powerplant and start test fitting everything.

Worse comes to worse, i can sell my hydraulics and bellhousing/adapter on thirdgen.org and either retrofit a t56 master/slave setup or give keislers universal kit with an aftermarket Hydraulic TOB a shot.

Hopefully all of this will work out, id hate to try to sell my trans and pick up a used t56 thats probably trashed... at least thats what i see after people open em up. Another reason is weight, since my 3550 is lighter.