RedHottG2

iTrader: (14)

My Monster level 3.5 is fully broke in now. But I've noticed under hard launching and running through the gears when I'm done and I slow back down the clutch pedal starts to become a little soft. Then after it's driven around a little longer everything goes back to the normal feel of the pedal. Is this normal or should it not go soft ever ? If it's not normal what would be causing this ? Thanks

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

Possibly burned clutch fluid... did you replace the slave at the same time? Either way, change the fluid and see what happens.

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

on the subject, would there be any benefit to take the "cheaper" route and run braided lines to the slave instead of the stock lines?

I noticed a soft pedal on mine (stock clutch tho which I think is letting go) after getting hard on it a couple days ago

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Iv got a monster stage 3 and mines like that also. Im going to do the "drill mod" and new fluids..that should fix it I hope..

RedHottG2

iTrader: (14)

Well I have a Tick adj. MC and that's suppose to eliminate the need for the drill mod. I'm going to change my fluid and see what happens. If anyone else knows anything please post it.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

Did you replace the slave cylinder at the same time?

RedHottG2

iTrader: (14)

I'm not sure, I bought the 3.5 kit.. does it come with the slave ? Let me research it a little and ask my buddy that put it in. He's bad *** and know's how to work on these cars. I thought for sure he said it did but let me get back to you in the morning for sure..

RedHottG2

iTrader: (14)

Yea it did have the slave, so now I'm doing brakes next week so I'll just wait to change the fluid then and see if it fixes it. I'm also going to wrap the lines with some kind of heat resistant material. I was looking at the lines last night and one is VERY close to the manifold so I know that has to be boiling the fluid at times. That could be causing my problem right there also.

spazzyfry123

iTrader: (4)

Here's a good read for you...

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Definetly sounds like fluid/hydraulic issues, give us a call if the problem persist.

19trans79am

What is the drill mod? And where is the bleed for the slave,I want to put new fliud in.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

There is a sticky at the top of the manual transmission forum for the drill mod. You basically take it off the car and drill a bigger hole through the line. For me, the drill mod did not work. I ended up spending the extra money for a tick master cylinder. I replace the clutch, master, and slave all at once so I can't say if just replacing the master with a tick unit will solve your problem.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Pedal goes soft, is a hydro problem for sure...no doubt...check your MC line and where it is routed next to your headers/exhaust. Probaly either right next to, or on top of it, and heating teh fluid in doing so...

RedHottG2

iTrader: (14)

What would be the best stuff to use to wrap the lines with that are close to the manifolds / headers ?

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

Just go to a local auto parts store prefer a NAPA, they had a excellent wrap i used. Tell them exactly what you are using it for.

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

sweet, maybe my clutch will last a little longer...
I wouldnt bank on them. I would just get standard header wrap or the sticky back heat reflective stuff. I've had a bad experience with ALL auto parts stores. I asked a guy at Napa; "need a trans mount for a T-56"... "whats a T-56?" .... he wasnt a young guy either

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

I didn't notice this being asked so did you do a full bleed of the hydraulics when you put it back together? I would unplug the master line and test to make sure the pedal is like a rock (so you know there isn't something wrong with the master), then gravity bleed the master with about 1/4 of a bottle of fluid, then plug it in and do a traditional bleed on the whole system using a good portion of the rest of the bottle. Crack the bleeder, have someone push the pedal down, tighten the bleeder as it's approaching full depression of the pedal. Check your reservoir level and top off every two cracks.