Mike Bell

Ok. Got the tranny out. What do you guys see? Anything obvious that would keep it from going into gear (1st and reverse) easily or clutch to release at the top? I'm deperate here!

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

Most of the responses on your other thread recommended that you replace your clutch.
It seems like they were giving good advice. Taking them up on thier advice might be a good idea.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-problems.html


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Mike Bell

I replaced my clutch disc 1st thing....

derrick0811

i have the same problem i replaced everything u did plus flywheel, pressure plate, slave and throughtout bearing, and hydrallac line. im lost too lol.im thinking maybe there was just more air in it so i pulled trany and im going to bleed it with it off.

LS1PUNK

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem with my ls7 clutch, long story short I blew up my stock tranny and got a viper spec T-56. Come to find out the input shaft was a tad longer than the stock one and was riding on the back of the crank, so I put a scatter shield on and that fixed that problem their but it still wasnt fully disengaging. Replaced the stock MC with the Tick MC and it still wouldnt disengage, so we pulled everything and put a brand new stock LS1 clutch in; put everything back in and it WORKED! So it might be the pressure plate-clutch-flywheel, who knows but that might be your problem. Hope that helps

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Per the previous threads you have you need to quit trying to save a few dollars and install a matched clutch KIT that is designed to work with each other instead of trying to make mix matched and old and new clutch components work, unless you enjoy the aggravation and gray hairs, the way you are going you need to remove all the bolts from that set up and install zippers that way when you take everything apart for the fifth time it makes it easier.

Mike Bell

Save a few bucks... chit... I've spent a wad so far... so don't give me that. Not to mention I've still got the old clutch disc, and it looks nearly identical to my new one. Sits in the PP the same too. So..... surely after buying the clutch plate, a $350 master cylinder (and doing the DIY mod to the original MC), a slave, you can see why I'm reluctant to spend more when people say "it's the pressure plate" and have no rhyme or reason for it.

I posted pics so someone might be able to point something out intsead of saying shell out another $250 and see if it fixes it... If you guys see no problem, please just say so instead of saying it doesn't work because you've mixed and matched parts. Things fit the same way with this setup as the old.... pressure plate fingers look fine.... to me. Anyone think those fingers look bad? I see some hotspots on it but I wouldn't think thats any reason for it not to want to go into 1st and reverse or release high on the pedal.

Sorry if I sound a bit sensative about it. I didn't have any $$ to spend on it in the first place, and it's been a wild goose chase so far and I'm done doing that.

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

That clutch in your picture looks like a RAM clutch which requires measuring for a shim, this is real important.

Also that clutch in your pictures doesn't look new, it looks like dung.


Regardless, these cars are the most fickle on the planet when it comes to the clutch systems.

derrick0811

do cenetrforce requir shim? i put mine together bled it and it all godd after tst drive and get it into reverse. and all the gears get hard to gt into again. i replaced everything. maybe a faulty slave again??

Mike Bell

You're right, it's not new now. It's got close to 100 miles on it.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I understand your frustration but you say the disc and the PP and the fingers look OK? But what is the acceptable thickness range for a flywheel that has been turned and what is the correct thickness for the disc to work with your PP set-up? Bottom line is you dont know and we are talking thousands of an inch that you cannot see with the naked eye you have to use measuring equipment, the working tolerances on a clutch releasing and not releasing are in the thousands of an inch range, when you finally put in a matched set and your problems are gone you can buy me a beer and kick yourself in the *** and ask why the hell didnt I just do that in the first place instead of buying an adjustable master cylinder you probably didnt need in the first place, as there are tens of thousands of these cars on the road operating just fine with a stock master cylinder.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

I don't necessarily see anything wrong in the pictures you've posted but I have to agree that if you've replaced everything you have and you know it was installed/bled properly, then you're probably going to want to replace the pressure plate next. Unless you've got an internal transmission issue, there's not really anything left to replace aside from the pressure plate. Will it just not go into first or does it give you trouble going into every gear?

BTW, what brand clutch is it? Does it require a shim? There was recently an issue with Monster clutches (I know it's not a Monster you've got there but I'm just giving an example) where some of the pressure plates were manufactured improperly and they would not fully disengage properly causing problems getting into gear even at a dead stop. I know because my brother had one of them and he was having the same issues as you. Bought a new Tick master, slave, everything. Spent days bleeding traditionally, with the Mity Vac, etc, but to no avail. Found out about the pressure plate issue, got it replaced, and now it works perfectly.

Mike Bell

Thank you for your response. I guess since it's the only thing left I'm leaning that way too. It's just tough for 1st and reverse now, while the car is on. It's shifts pretty nice on other gears, and goes fine into all when the car is off.