Looking for cluch suggestion
#1
Looking for cluch suggestion
Car is in my sig. Right now it has an almost brand new Oz700 x grip in it. I have to say that this clutch has a relativly light pedal pressure and grips enough that I was launching at about 5k pulling low 1.7s 60's and the car was just absolutly hooking and not spinning a bit and then bogging terribly. The clutch holds like a champ and I dont think dumping it at redline would even get it to slip. So great holding capacity and daily driver friendly but I still wouldent say its drag racer friendly because of where it engages/disengages which may be different in Fbodies but in my car its pretty much the floor.
This low point meens if I try to slip her into the next gear quickly without having my foot all the way in it will grind going into the next gear leading me to having to get the tranny rebuilt this winter. This clutch would be perfect for a high HP daily driver but I cant stand the engagement point for drag racing. It makes my shifts much slower and thus why I'm gonna sell it. Its a great clutch like I said for a daily driver.. in fact I dont even know what I people meen when they say their clutch chatters (i've never heard any sort of noise or judder with this clutch, taught my GF how to drive with it)
But I'm looking for something that just engages disengages near the top of the pedal, or at least in the middle like the way the car was when it was stock. With the stock clutch I could do no lift shifts and get it into the next gear without any grind or before I really was bouncing off the limiter. This clutch doesnt like to easily find the next gear at the red line while trying to hussle it quickly into the next gear.
This clutch would have to do quadruple duty. Drag strip, street, autox/hillclimb and road course. So the flywheel would need to be heavy enough t get it off the line well but also be light enough that I could flick the gas and it will rev quick enough that I can do heel/toe /rev matched downshifts easily with just a blip of the throttle.
my tuner is suggesting a monster stage 3 and said I could prob get away with the lightweight flywheel because my car is only about 2800lbs. I wanna get feedback on these clutches. I tried one in a friends car and it felt pretty stiff, but that was when I was still used to the stock clutch so I'm sure everything would have felt heavy.
So after that essay, heres the cliffs on what the clutch has to do
-Easy to shift at readline/ powershift
- engages/disengages near the top of the pedal so I can just tap the cluch to get it into the next gear
- flywheel has enough weight to get me good 60's still but light enough to allow the engine to rev somewhat quickly
- deff not over 1k
- livable through ocassional traffic
Needs to hold 1.5 1.6 60's and 500-600whp
This low point meens if I try to slip her into the next gear quickly without having my foot all the way in it will grind going into the next gear leading me to having to get the tranny rebuilt this winter. This clutch would be perfect for a high HP daily driver but I cant stand the engagement point for drag racing. It makes my shifts much slower and thus why I'm gonna sell it. Its a great clutch like I said for a daily driver.. in fact I dont even know what I people meen when they say their clutch chatters (i've never heard any sort of noise or judder with this clutch, taught my GF how to drive with it)
But I'm looking for something that just engages disengages near the top of the pedal, or at least in the middle like the way the car was when it was stock. With the stock clutch I could do no lift shifts and get it into the next gear without any grind or before I really was bouncing off the limiter. This clutch doesnt like to easily find the next gear at the red line while trying to hussle it quickly into the next gear.
This clutch would have to do quadruple duty. Drag strip, street, autox/hillclimb and road course. So the flywheel would need to be heavy enough t get it off the line well but also be light enough that I could flick the gas and it will rev quick enough that I can do heel/toe /rev matched downshifts easily with just a blip of the throttle.
my tuner is suggesting a monster stage 3 and said I could prob get away with the lightweight flywheel because my car is only about 2800lbs. I wanna get feedback on these clutches. I tried one in a friends car and it felt pretty stiff, but that was when I was still used to the stock clutch so I'm sure everything would have felt heavy.
So after that essay, heres the cliffs on what the clutch has to do
-Easy to shift at readline/ powershift
- engages/disengages near the top of the pedal so I can just tap the cluch to get it into the next gear
- flywheel has enough weight to get me good 60's still but light enough to allow the engine to rev somewhat quickly
- deff not over 1k
- livable through ocassional traffic
Needs to hold 1.5 1.6 60's and 500-600whp
#2
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I just got a level 6 Monster with a lightweight flywheel installed in my 3500lb GTO a couple of weeks ago. It got broke in on the dyno, and I have beat the **** out of it since then. I love it - the pedal is light, and engages just under half of it's travel. No chatter, and I have no doubt that it will hold anything I can throw at it.
I had a level 3 previously, and put 23K on it. I liked it to, and it never slipped or smelled burned, even launching at 4500+ rpm on slicks. I had to have the tarnny rebuilt, or it would still be in there. Looked like it had plenty of miles left on it when it came out (other than some fluid contamination from a leaking rear main.)
Get the Monster. They have awesome customer service, and you will love the clutch. Do yourself a favor and get the Tick adjustable master cylinder while you're in there. And definitely get the lightweight flywheel. It is an 18lb billet steel FW, vs their standard 28lb steel FW.
I had a level 3 previously, and put 23K on it. I liked it to, and it never slipped or smelled burned, even launching at 4500+ rpm on slicks. I had to have the tarnny rebuilt, or it would still be in there. Looked like it had plenty of miles left on it when it came out (other than some fluid contamination from a leaking rear main.)
Get the Monster. They have awesome customer service, and you will love the clutch. Do yourself a favor and get the Tick adjustable master cylinder while you're in there. And definitely get the lightweight flywheel. It is an 18lb billet steel FW, vs their standard 28lb steel FW.
#3
I just got a level 6 Monster with a lightweight flywheel installed in my 3500lb GTO a couple of weeks ago. It got broke in on the dyno, and I have beat the **** out of it since then. I love it - the pedal is light, and engages just under half of it's travel. No chatter, and I have no doubt that it will hold anything I can throw at it.
I had a level 3 previously, and put 23K on it. I liked it to, and it never slipped or smelled burned, even launching at 4500+ rpm on slicks. I had to have the tarnny rebuilt, or it would still be in there. Looked like it had plenty of miles left on it when it came out (other than some fluid contamination from a leaking rear main.)
Get the Monster. They have awesome customer service, and you will love the clutch. Do yourself a favor and get the Tick adjustable master cylinder while you're in there. And definitely get the lightweight flywheel. It is an 18lb billet steel FW, vs their standard 28lb steel FW.
I had a level 3 previously, and put 23K on it. I liked it to, and it never slipped or smelled burned, even launching at 4500+ rpm on slicks. I had to have the tarnny rebuilt, or it would still be in there. Looked like it had plenty of miles left on it when it came out (other than some fluid contamination from a leaking rear main.)
Get the Monster. They have awesome customer service, and you will love the clutch. Do yourself a favor and get the Tick adjustable master cylinder while you're in there. And definitely get the lightweight flywheel. It is an 18lb billet steel FW, vs their standard 28lb steel FW.
#7
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
I thought pedal travel was in adjustment and not the clutch itself.
you may want to check that befor you spend tons of money to get the same result.
However If you are dead set on a new clutch I will give a Plus 1 on the Monster clutches.
Great customer service, myself and my mechanic are about to order one. I am trying to decide on going with a aluminum or steel flywheel, I will see the drag strip more than i will the auto cross scene so the steel is probably the best bet. but I also have a 3000 Pound 82 corvette that my ls1 and 6 speed is in with 4.11s so the 18 pound aluminum might be ok, I think it will drop alot of Torque though being 10 pounds lighter.
I would recommend a stage 3 or 4 that is the rating you are looking for and right now all monsters are on sale.
you may want to check that befor you spend tons of money to get the same result.
However If you are dead set on a new clutch I will give a Plus 1 on the Monster clutches.
Great customer service, myself and my mechanic are about to order one. I am trying to decide on going with a aluminum or steel flywheel, I will see the drag strip more than i will the auto cross scene so the steel is probably the best bet. but I also have a 3000 Pound 82 corvette that my ls1 and 6 speed is in with 4.11s so the 18 pound aluminum might be ok, I think it will drop alot of Torque though being 10 pounds lighter.
I would recommend a stage 3 or 4 that is the rating you are looking for and right now all monsters are on sale.
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#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
I have a Monster level 6 as well and has been flawless so far. Many have been 1.30's on these....
But the problem sounds more like needing an adj. master IMO. Then you can set where you want the pedal.
However if you do choose to get rid of it Monster is the way to go. As stated they have the best customer service out there, bar NONE. I also run the lightweight flywheel and love it; with the weight of the car, you shouldn't have any problems.
But the problem sounds more like needing an adj. master IMO. Then you can set where you want the pedal.
However if you do choose to get rid of it Monster is the way to go. As stated they have the best customer service out there, bar NONE. I also run the lightweight flywheel and love it; with the weight of the car, you shouldn't have any problems.
#10
yeah and it could be related to just the fact that I have a different setup than F-bodies. I was the first I know to run an Oz700 in an ls1 swapped rx7. So maybe its just not a fit for our setups. Thats why I was gonna sell it off. I know the clutch works flawlessly and had like 2-3K on it and then I can move to a well proven clutch on the ls1 rx7s like the monster. ect
I measured just to be sure even though oz700s dont really ever nee shims and it was within .1" and I bled the system using several techniques and put 2 bottles of brake fluid through it
I measured just to be sure even though oz700s dont really ever nee shims and it was within .1" and I bled the system using several techniques and put 2 bottles of brake fluid through it
#12
12 Second Club
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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I thought pedal travel was in adjustment and not the clutch itself.
you may want to check that befor you spend tons of money to get the same result.
However If you are dead set on a new clutch I will give a Plus 1 on the Monster clutches.
Great customer service, myself and my mechanic are about to order one. I am trying to decide on going with a aluminum or steel flywheel, I will see the drag strip more than i will the auto cross scene so the steel is probably the best bet. but I also have a 3000 Pound 82 corvette that my ls1 and 6 speed is in with 4.11s so the 18 pound aluminum might be ok, I think it will drop alot of Torque though being 10 pounds lighter.
I would recommend a stage 3 or 4 that is the rating you are looking for and right now all monsters are on sale.
you may want to check that befor you spend tons of money to get the same result.
However If you are dead set on a new clutch I will give a Plus 1 on the Monster clutches.
Great customer service, myself and my mechanic are about to order one. I am trying to decide on going with a aluminum or steel flywheel, I will see the drag strip more than i will the auto cross scene so the steel is probably the best bet. but I also have a 3000 Pound 82 corvette that my ls1 and 6 speed is in with 4.11s so the 18 pound aluminum might be ok, I think it will drop alot of Torque though being 10 pounds lighter.
I would recommend a stage 3 or 4 that is the rating you are looking for and right now all monsters are on sale.