Sticky gears at high RPM shifting
12-03-2009, 04:47 AM
#1
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Sticky gears at high RPM shifting I'm having problems stabbing gears at high RPMs (mostly 3rd), and I've heard that the problem would be in the master cylinder if the pedal was sticking to the floor, but it's not. Low RPM shifting the car shifts fine. I recently had new gears (first and second) and syncros installed allong with a new clutch.Thanks for any help!
12-03-2009, 03:45 PM
#3
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look into the drill mod 
A google search for LS1 slave cylinder should turn up the results you are looking for. I found a great article on it last night.. if I run across it again I'll link it for you.
A google search for LS1 slave cylinder should turn up the results you are looking for. I found a great article on it last night.. if I run across it again I'll link it for you.
12-10-2009, 02:11 AM
#4
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I'm having problems stabbing gears at high RPMs (mostly 3rd), and I've heard that the problem would be in the master cylinder if the pedal was sticking to the floor, but it's not. Low RPM shifting the car shifts fine. I recently had new gears (first and second) and syncros installed allong with a new clutch.Thanks for any help!
12-10-2009, 10:52 PM
#6
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I don't think the drill mod will solve your problem. If bled properly, the clutch will disengage just as quickly without the drill mod. What clutch do you have? A disc with high rotational inertia can cause synchros to crunch at high-rpm. I have a Spec 4 clutch and shift smoothly at 7k. The Spec 4 disc has much lower rotational inertia than, say, a Spec 3+ disc.
12-11-2009, 07:26 AM
#7
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do you have longtube headers?the heat maybe boiling your clutch fluid....you should call tick and tell them you need everything to solve the problem....it works...ive done it. good luck...and pm me if you need more help
Last edited by 1slowM6; 12-11-2009 at 07:31 AM.
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12-11-2009, 09:10 PM
#8
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So here is the break down. Say your fluid is old or boiled because it got to hot, making it old, then when you press the clutch pedal this fluid is still strong enough to diengage the clutch through the slave clyinder. When the fluid gets hot (like at high RPM runs) the slave gets hot, when the slave gets hot it expands, when this happens it "sticks" in the housing its in. So it works when its cooler but when the old fluid gets hot it becomes worthless.
12-11-2009, 09:40 PM
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Def bleed the hydraulics first just in case! Mine was reaaaal dark when I first got the car. I did it the easy way, siphoning the reservoir and filling it with new fluid. Takes several times to get it clear as it is just diluting the old stuff. But it beats actually bleeding the system.
In the summer I was doing it once a week after getting it fairly clean. Siphon and replace fluid, drive it for a week, repeat. Now its clear as new!
In the summer I was doing it once a week after getting it fairly clean. Siphon and replace fluid, drive it for a week, repeat. Now its clear as new!
