Clutch Opinions Wanted
01-25-2010, 11:20 AM
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Clutch Opinions Wanted Car Details: 94 Formula, LT1, Bolt-ons, M6, 3.42, 80k miles
Im having clutch issues. Bought the car 3 years ago, was told new clutch had 1k miles, stock replacement. Bad slip under 2k RPM, anything more than 1/4 to 1/2 throttle the clutch lets go and slips, gets worse when it gets hot, which it does on freeay often, city traffic occasionally. Recently over 5k RPM slips as well so time for a new one. Clutch has 20k miles on it now.
After research I have decided on Autozone OEM + Mcleod disk (making sure its a Valeo pressure plate not knock off). Budget replacement.
Not sure if flywheel was re-surfaced with last replacement, not going to chance having it done again and too much taken off. New flywheel as well.
I have searched, come up with a general idea of steel vs. aluminum. Car is daily driver, no track, 8-10k miles a year.
Few questions regarding flywheel. Aluminum is lighter, less inertia, less low end power in theory. How much is this difference? From a stop I can understand a little more effort to get going, cant just let out clutch like I can now.
For say freeway driving, 1500 RPM, can I still go up a hill without needing to downshift or will there still be enough torque even with lightened assembly? I drive about 60/40 city/freeway.
Also how about the fun to drive factor for those of who who have gone steel to aluminum?
Any items I need along with these? New slave, master, etc...?
Thanks.
Im having clutch issues. Bought the car 3 years ago, was told new clutch had 1k miles, stock replacement. Bad slip under 2k RPM, anything more than 1/4 to 1/2 throttle the clutch lets go and slips, gets worse when it gets hot, which it does on freeay often, city traffic occasionally. Recently over 5k RPM slips as well so time for a new one. Clutch has 20k miles on it now.
After research I have decided on Autozone OEM + Mcleod disk (making sure its a Valeo pressure plate not knock off). Budget replacement.
Not sure if flywheel was re-surfaced with last replacement, not going to chance having it done again and too much taken off. New flywheel as well.
I have searched, come up with a general idea of steel vs. aluminum. Car is daily driver, no track, 8-10k miles a year.
Few questions regarding flywheel. Aluminum is lighter, less inertia, less low end power in theory. How much is this difference? From a stop I can understand a little more effort to get going, cant just let out clutch like I can now.
For say freeway driving, 1500 RPM, can I still go up a hill without needing to downshift or will there still be enough torque even with lightened assembly? I drive about 60/40 city/freeway.
Also how about the fun to drive factor for those of who who have gone steel to aluminum?
Any items I need along with these? New slave, master, etc...?
Thanks.
01-29-2010, 09:37 AM
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I don't know about aluminum flywheels, but I have a lightweight billet steel flywheel in my car.. iirc its about ten lbs lighter than stock. I absolutely love it, barely any difference in takeoff. Power increase was noticeable, but that may be due to my clutch not properly engaging before. Fun factor as well of ease of driving are way up to me. Even normal shifting I was a bit ahead of the car before and would have my foot off the clutch brfore the rpms dropped to where they needed to be, I don't have that issue anymore. 
01-29-2010, 09:40 AM
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I don't recall the lt1 kits coming with a slave... anyway while ur down under the car go buy a slave/master pre bled kit from your local dealer its around 150... or at least it was 3 years ago when I put one in my lt1 z28. Well worth the extra
