Hellstud

When you dump the clutch at above 4000 rpms or so, it should smoke the tires, right?
Well, I tried doing that and the car just slowly started rolling, as in the clutch was slowly engaging. It did that through second gear as well. Furthermore, the pedal itself felt extremely mushy after this stunt. It would disengage the clutch and allow me to get into other gears, but was extremely light, with really only any resistance at the very bottom.
Eventually the clutch feel alleviated itself, although it has always felt lighter than any of my lt1 clutches, or the one with the lb9, with just a slight amount of freeplay that I found disconcerting in a hydraulic clutch. I haven't done this too often since the first incident (maybe twice), but it has a similar result when shifting at wot from 1st to 2nd and then 3rd.
So my question is if it's solely a hydraulic issue? Or was the clutch itself toasted before hand (I'm sure it is now). Or is this a symptom of the constricted master cylinder line "feature?"
Sorry about the long post, thanks in advance for any advice.

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

Poor clutch hydraulics. Clutch might be on its way out, too, but this is mainly a symptom of the hydraulic clutch system. You might need a new master and or slave, plus consider the "drill mod".

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

Get the tick performance adjustable master!!!

Hellstud

Is there any significant difference between the tick one and mcleod? And unless it's obviously busted, would there be a point in replacing the slave if it is already an aught 1? If I get one of these fancy master cylinders, will I still need to do the drill mod?

Hellstud

I just looked at the tick description and it plainly says no need for drill mod. That answers that question.

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

When you get a adjustable there is no need for drill mod, and how old is your slave? I'm not sure about the mcleod one, but i know the tick product is good.

Hellstud

As far as I know, the slave is as old as the car, 2001. Same with the rest of the components. I'm contemplating putting the cash down for the tick level one or level 2 package. Good or bad idea?

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure exactly what you are talking about... Trans rebuild kits??? But to answer your question, if you are having hydraulic failure and are on all origional hydraulics, yes, i would replace the master and slave. If it is your clutch that is going out and not hydraulics, you will still need to replace your slave. Every time you do a clutch on these cars, you should do a new slave/throwout... And while i had the car down, i would go ahead and do a master...

Hellstud

They apparently have this package with a monster clutch kit, fly wheel, master and slave cylinders, remote bleeder, throwout, and pilot bearings for 1150. Just wondering if monster clutches are a good idea.

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

Monster is an excellent clutch... What kind of power are you making?

Hellstud

All I have is exhaust. New air lid is on the way, and soon cam (although this will be delayed if i drop a grand on all sorts of fancy new clutch parts). But the car hasn't been on a dyno, so I can really only speculate.

BES Stroked Nova

iTrader: (24)

Tick master, new slave. and clutch of choice, and you will smoke those tires!

Centerforce is a nice clutch for the money. I have been 10.40's at 3800lbs with 1.48 60 ft....

Hellstud

Fantastic! OR, I'll move on to breaking the rear, thusly making another detour in my mod plans.

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

With that kind of power level i wouldn't go past a monster level 2 (if you decide to go monster)... It'll hold way more than you will ever make cam only and will hold up if you decide to throw a little spray at it.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

Just a thought, have you flushed/bleed the fluid lately?

Hellstud

No I haven't. Do you think simply doing that will do the trick?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

If you have fluid that has broken-down over time or even gotten hot and aerated as a result then flushing and refilling the system with new fluid may help. I suggest using a mighty-vac to bleed the system making sure that you bleed from the valve (which is located off of the slave cylinder) and the reservoir (which is mounted on the drivers-side firewall). I suggest using a good high-temp fluid like Motul RBF-600. Give it a shot and let us know what you find. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks

Hellstud

I'll try that this weekend, before I drop a ton of money on new parts. If I can get my hands on a might vac (I do my work at the hobby shop on base, they may or may not have one to loan), how does it work? Can't I just have someone press the clutch while I open the bleed valve?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

You can use the gravity-bleed method and also have someone pump the pedal but these methods generally aren't able to get all the air out of the system. I know that there are folks here that have had luck doing this other ways but I talk to many more people that bleed the system until they are blue-in-the-face. Once they use the mighty-vac method their get all the air out though.

Mart00SS

iTrader: (19)

Sounds like the clutch is getting weak and slipping on those dumps and High RPM shifts. When the clutch slips it produces a LOT of head especially at high RPM thus causing the fluid in your slave cylinder to over heat and "boil" causing a mushy clutch pedal. Too many times of happening to the clutch fuild contaminates it and makes it easier for it to happen again. If I were you I'd go with a LS7 clutch New slave(might as well while the trans is out) and +1 on the Tick Master. I've had one for a while and couldnt be happier with it. I DD my car and have basic mods. The Ls7 has a good feel to it and grabs like a bitch.