All T56's Created Equal?
02-01-2010, 05:08 AM
#1
All T56's Created Equal? I'm in the planning stages of a LSx swap into a Fox body Mustang. I'd like to go with a manual transmission so the T56 seems like a logical choice.
I don't know too much about the T56 though and don't want to get burned while shopping. Are there any years to be avoided? If so, is there an easy way to visually identify the units which are undesirable, inferior or incompatible?
Is there a list or "Sticky" that indicates all of the years and vehicles that came equipped with the T56?
Also, what bellhousing should I be looking for?
Basically looking for a little T56 101.
Thanks!
Tipsy
I don't know too much about the T56 though and don't want to get burned while shopping. Are there any years to be avoided? If so, is there an easy way to visually identify the units which are undesirable, inferior or incompatible?
Is there a list or "Sticky" that indicates all of the years and vehicles that came equipped with the T56?
Also, what bellhousing should I be looking for?
Basically looking for a little T56 101.
Thanks!
Tipsy
02-01-2010, 07:19 AM
#2
Stay away from '93-'97 LT1 version T56s, and Corvette and CTSv T56s, they won't fit without alot of modifications. Just about any Fbody '98-'02 LS1 T56 version will be fine, and only slight updates over the LS1 span years. The GTO T56s will fit also. They have better synchros, but a wider gear ratio than the Fbody.
02-01-2010, 05:59 PM
#4
+1 to that dustiebutt. Build the t56 for the power rating you are going to go with. Don't put a 600whp LSx motor with a stock fbody t56 in it for sure. You will bend the 3-4 shiftfork very quickly. Also, just get a bell for a 98-02 fbody, they are all the exact same no matter what year. People do selling them on here in the classified section from time to time for a decent price. Keep an eye on that if it helps
02-01-2010, 06:16 PM
#5
I have one in my 93 RX7. I'm using the 7/8" Wilwood clutch master cylinder and a extended hydraulic line.
The advice I want to add to this thread is this; Do not over extend your slave cylinder. Doing so will cause it to ingest clutch dust and greatly shorten it's lifespan.
Once your swap is drivable, set up a stop behind the clutch pedal to limit travel to only the amount you need to shift cleanly.
The advice I want to add to this thread is this; Do not over extend your slave cylinder. Doing so will cause it to ingest clutch dust and greatly shorten it's lifespan.
Once your swap is drivable, set up a stop behind the clutch pedal to limit travel to only the amount you need to shift cleanly.
02-01-2010, 06:59 PM
#6
Is there an easy way to visually identify the '93-'97 LT1, Corvette (all years???) and CTSv's T56's?
I would think it would be easy for a seller to claim the tranny came out of an F-body if the buyer doesn't have a discerning eye.
Tipsy
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02-02-2010, 12:08 PM
#10
...while there are many sources for the info you want....ping D&D Performance (sponser to this site) and discuss specifics with them
..look into the T56 "magnum" for your application.
..look into the T56 "magnum" for your application.
02-02-2010, 01:41 PM
#12
D&D is where i got my t56, its supposed to have all the mods needed to handle 550 ftibs. However that is probably when used in a standard weight F body, since my car is roughly 1000 ibs lighter i would imagine the tranny can handle a little more then that.
02-02-2010, 03:29 PM
#13
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well i think there should be a way of looking up the year of the production through the serial number.. maybe through the dealer.. im not positive im just thinkin of ideas for ya
02-02-2010, 08:39 PM
#14
Fbody's will all have this tailhousing, CTSv, Corvette's, etc. will not.
LS1 type front plate. Notice center area with 2 bolt holes to mount slave
LT1 type front plate. Notice center area with sleeve and single bolt hole at 4 o'clock where clutch fork pivot mounts
02-03-2010, 01:02 PM
#18
I have one in my 93 RX7. I'm using the 7/8" Wilwood clutch master cylinder and a extended hydraulic line.
The advice I want to add to this thread is this; Do not over extend your slave cylinder. Doing so will cause it to ingest clutch dust and greatly shorten it's lifespan.
Once your swap is drivable, set up a stop behind the clutch pedal to limit travel to only the amount you need to shift cleanly.
The advice I want to add to this thread is this; Do not over extend your slave cylinder. Doing so will cause it to ingest clutch dust and greatly shorten it's lifespan.
Once your swap is drivable, set up a stop behind the clutch pedal to limit travel to only the amount you need to shift cleanly.
I have heard this before...maybe from you on the RX7 forum. I feel this is a very important point you're making.
How do you know if you're over-extending the slave cylinder or not?
02-06-2010, 02:59 AM
#19
My clutch released at the top; I only had to push the pedal in about an inch or two to get the clutch to release. Being the n00b that I am to swapped cars, I was pushing to the floor. Pretty soon, my brake fluid was turning dark, my clutch rez is connected to the brake master. They share fluid.
There was debris, like dead skin floating in the fluid. Pretty soon it got hard to get in gear. The car now sits in my back yard while I get ready to pull the trans.
There was debris, like dead skin floating in the fluid. Pretty soon it got hard to get in gear. The car now sits in my back yard while I get ready to pull the trans.
02-06-2010, 06:11 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI;12838297[B
LS1 type front plate. Notice center area with 2 bolt holes to mount slave[/B]
LT1 type front plate. Notice center area with sleeve and single bolt hole at 4 o'clock where clutch fork pivot mounts
LT1 type front plate. Notice center area with sleeve and single bolt hole at 4 o'clock where clutch fork pivot mounts
Last edited by FTSS; 02-07-2010 at 06:09 AM.