derrick0811

just replaced master, slave throughout bearing, and clutch and flywheel car is on jack stands. i bleed clutch with mity vac good pedal but when u start the car in gear it seems like btry is almost dead and sounds like it gonna stall and wont shift gears. when started in neutral it seems good but still wont shift to any gears it wont budge. 99 z28 thanks for any help ive been on this for 3 months some remember. im considering on buying just another pressure plate i think mine mite be defaulty. it was centerforce dual friciton clutch kit and cf steel flywheel with oem slave and master. but do have drill mod

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Did you measure for a shim? I went with a tick adjustable master so I could adjust it till it went in gear easy. Im guessing it needs a shim but I am not expert. Someone will chime in.

derrick0811

i didnt they said it wasnt nesscary but it was worjing good b4 i took tranny out again. it was almost perfect but had air in system so i replaced slave again and now this

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

I would vote pressure plate. I am having the same trouble right now and had to replace all of my clutch hydraulics (slave twice and master cylinder also), and car WILL NOT go into gear stationary while idling. The only thing left is the pressure plate. You know the clutch is holding though because it has a hard time going into gear. Just the release forks on the pressure plate won't release the clutch most likely. Be careful with that though, don't over do it because it will shred your synchros up in your tranny from this problem.

I have been at my car since August unfortunately, parts take a while getting up here and shipping is insane also. I just paid $180 for a Monster Clutch kit to get shipped up here, not including the price of the clutch. Wish I was back in the lower 48 right now lol

derrick0811

ok well thank you man. i actually am trying to go to ak for a week or so.. anchorage

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

The LS1 has a release bearing (aka slave cylinder) that presses against the presure plate. the LT1 has the fork. you should always measure for a shim or get an adjustable master cylinder to be problem free. the spec clutches almost always require a shim, but most other clutches out there for the LS1 only require adjustment, an good bleed, or an adjustable master cylinder. if u have air in your lines that will definitely be the cause of non-disengagement.

Reaper SS

iTrader: (9)

Did the trans go in smoothly during assembly cause if it did not and you had any weight on the trans hanging in the disc it could have bent the disc which will not disengage no matter what shim or adj master is in it.

With the trans in neutral does the rear wheels turn with the engine running. You could also try putting it in gear engine off and push the clutch all the way in and have some one turn the wheels to see if its disengaging. Thats one easy way to check the hydrolics.

Need a little more info.

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

Off topic but Alaska is fricking awesome bro. The scenery even in Anchorage is amazing, but bring alot of money. The place is rediculously expensive, as in large pizza is $15+ lol.

Is there any kind of sound when you are pressing the clutch pedal in? Mine makes a small metal click where the pressure plate should disengage from the clutch. Which is why I was saying the release fingers on the pressure plate. Just make sure you have all the air out before you go any further. It can take up a long *** time to get all the air out of the system. Also, how long ago did you do the drill mod? And how well did you flush the line afterwards. If there is a blockage, that could be your problem too.

What Reaper SS said could be a possibility also.

derrick0811

thanks guys for help i think i fixed it the master was wiggling aroung. im stupid but ak sounds so fun