aldenz28

clutch went have the trans out in my 2000 ss camaro. when i took the flywheel off to get resurfaced there was oil on the flywheel bolts but no sign of oil leaking from the rear main. anyways i have a new rear main but im realy worried about messing around with the seal because i have a feeling im going to replace the seal and its going to b worse off then before. does anyone have advice on wat to do here and is there any place i can order this special tool for installing the seal j-41479? iv looked everywhere for it the dealers wnt order it for me im really in a jam here and just want to get my car back on the road

aldenz28

i just found a web site with the special tool in stock. wow 300 bucks!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

There is no special tool needed..just remove the back cover and use a large Socket, be very easy with it and pop it in evenly and flush..

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Yeah like merv said you don't need a special tool I've never used one and had no problems

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

so you HAVE to remove the cover? Just got my new seal today, going to isntall next weekend. Should the seal be lubed at all?

jb98camaro

iTrader: (1)

no dont lube it. lubing it will make it leak WAY bad. my friend lubed his and it leaked worse than before.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

A very light rub of Assembly Lube is what I put on mine..like just enough to tell there is something on it.

Quick99Si

iTrader: (27)

GM recommends using a small amount of engine oil on the outside face of the seal and the corresponding piece on the block. Do NOT lube any other side, particularly the area that comes in contact w/ the crank.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

Where did you get this info?

LS123

iTrader: (11)

When you buy a new seal from GM, the instruction comes with it. If you have the tool, it's a 2 min job to install it. If you don't, just be very careful and make sure it goes on straight.

Quick99Si

iTrader: (27)

I read from the instructions included w/ the part. It's a lot more detailed than what I posted, I'm gonna see if I can find it online.

The idea that the crank to seal surface must be 100% devoid of oil. They recommend using it on the OUTSIDE of the seal and INSIDE of the mating surface for ease of installation. Some people even use RTV on the edges but there's no mention of that in the GM instructions.

My biggest worry is to make sure it goes in straight. Using the old seal or a block of wood should help with this.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

interesting, i'd love to see the instructions. mine only came with a sheet of paper that says to install this new version the right way and has a "this side out" stamped on the seal.

i do notice that the inside of the seal, in between that plastic ring there is some lube.

LS123

iTrader: (11)

This is from GM service inforamtion.

Installation Procedure
Important:

• Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.

• Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.

• Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal with clean engine oil.
Do not allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.

• Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil.
DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

I wonder why the seal already has lube on the inside

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

I am not sure about the lube but as far as installation goes a piece of PVC pipe with the correct inside diameter makes the job a snap and is a helluva lot cheaper than 300 bucks

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea I've noticed that aswell..on that little white piece of plastic that comes with it. I think it's probably to keep the Rubber from drying out.

That's about how much I put on when I said that I lube it..just enough to see that you put something there. I've never had any problems.

I've always spread some Oil around the outside of it too before I put it in the Cover..pretty much did exactly what the instructions are talking about.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

so you put the seal on the pipe, line it up with the crank, then push it on?

yeah it does make sense to put just a little so nothing gets caught up pushing it on.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Exactly..

LS123

iTrader: (11)

Most of the GM seals come with lube on the inside of the seal. This is so when the seal is being installed, the lip doesn't get caught and flips over on a dry shaft.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Am I missing the boat? I see about a dozen posts on here about how to replace the rear main seal correctly, but after reading the OP's first post he say he has "THERE WAS OIL ON THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS BUT NO SIGNS OF OIL LEAKING FROM THE REAR MAIN SEAL" I assume you all know that the flywheel bolt holes are not blind and the manual says to use their G.M. thread sealant with loctite if you dont use the sealant you will have oil seepage through the flywheel bolt holes and on the threads of the bolts and eventually it will seep some motor oil. So the question is Op is that the case or is it the rear main? The reason I say this is because if the rear main is OK you dont want to mess with it, as stated earlier sometimes it will start to leak or leak worse from an improper install.